alnavasa
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Posts posted by alnavasa
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So, I was looking for a good system for a double fun duct, I ended up only finding one that I liked, I printed it, and It was for 40mm fans not the original size fans that the ultimaker comes with (50mm)
So I've made a remix of one I've seen in thingiverese,
Its a Design made for anular cooling system.
I don't know which are the best options for cooling with two fans,
Any suggesitions in the design or any other design out there that its good will be welcomed!
Here it is: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/dual-fan-duct-anular-cooling
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So gr5; Here are the two fans I've bought, I think there is no problem with them, but I just wanted to check, They are 12V and 0.16A. Which means that both together consume 12V and 0.32A. The transistor Its for up to 4 Amps (I think I read that somewhere), so there should be no problem right?
They also come with a different plug, but I solder them together and use the original fan plug(from the original fan), put al together with some shrinkable sleeve for the positives, and them for the hole wires.
Clean and nice!
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Okey Guys, so, Today I've done a print of iRobert fan ducts (Which I didn't read and they don't fit my fans) (and also a gopro frame) at 50 mms speed, 200ºC, 5 mm of retraction and 35mm/s speed
have you tried to enable the cooling fan? I would enable the cooling fan and dont set the fan speed to 250 at layer 0. I would youse the settings in the expert settings. Something like fan full at 1mm. This way your fan increase by 10% every layer. this helps the nozzle to heat up and hold the temp while fan is turning on.
I had it on at the seventh layer (on the plugin settings) but I'll change it there its better and not that messy!
So here are today prints (just one or two strings, and some points on the outer shell)
Also Underneath the overhangs It looks worse
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I am getting this back, I am looking for good double fan duct for the original machine.
I printed IRobert design from youmagine and then realized that its for smaller fans, which double fan do you recommend guys?
I have two fans from the exact same since as the original one.(50mm in the outside, 40mm between holes (Which I think It was broken because it made some noise at the beginning)
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That last post was difficult to look at - it was wider than my monitor. But I did look closely.
I don't know what happened with those pictures, report it to a moderator of the forum, because I have no idea what happened, they go far far away to the right of the screen.
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That last post was difficult to look at - it was wider than my monitor. But I did look closely.
80mm/sec is a reasonable print speed - for low quality. 35mm/sec is better for higher quality.
That last photo shows only 2 strings per part. And the strings *only* seem to be on the top layer. I think you must be printing these parts in "one at a time" mode. Which is fine. But a bit buggy in Cura - it doesn't handle the transition from one part to the next very well. I think it's probably not a problem - you just have to cut off two strings per part with a razor blade.
Yes, I considered that last one as a good print,
But definitely there is a problem with the retraction in that yellow PLA, I'll try to play with that, maybe printing in lower temp helps too
One of the problems I had in the previos print its that a screw that I printed didn't fit into the nut it was supposed to,
And one day I noticed that a cube that I printed one of the sides was 9.8 mm and the other 10mm
As you may have seen in the settings I am printing in 98% of flow, Because at the beginning the corners where made sharp, round, I did that by eye, but I want it to be better done I would like to calibrate it, the E steps, Is there a video for that? How should it exactly be done?
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Strings: Lack off Cooling/ you need a bigger retraction/ dirty nozzle
"Bubbling": Bad bed leveling/ uneven bedplate.... the big "bubbles" on the right are from sudden pressure release from the nozzle which has built up because it could not place it before...
It may be the bad leveling the problems with the brim.
Why could not place it before? I thought that maybe the bowden tube moving may cause un even pressure, but I haven't read of this problem from anyone.
Maybe. It looks just like it but it could also be slicer or something else. But if you are right then it simply means you were a tiny bit too close from nozzle to bed when you levelled.
The levelling looks quite close. What is your bottom layer height? I like to make this .3mm to compensate for my levelling errors.
The bottom layer height its the same one.
Stringing is tricky and I should warn you that some types of PLA will string no matter what you do. But in general you need the right retraction settings and you need to lower the temp.
There are 6 retraction related settings:
1) Make sure retraction is checked on basic/quality
2) In expert settings set minimum travel to 0mm or at least something small like 1mm.
3) In expert settings set "minimal extrusion..." to 0 or something well under .1mm. There is a 160X factor on this for .1mm layers so if you extrude .02mm filament you will get 3.2mm of straight line extruding. So the default is to not retract if you print for less than 3.2mm of linear printing (for .1mm layers).
4) In expert settings you can set "combing" on or off - it shouldn't make a huge difference for this part. Lately turning this "off" seems better in the current version of Cura but in the next version it might be best to turn it back on.
5,6) For the UM Original, you can also control the amount and speed of retraction. I recommend 40mm/sec (which works well for old and new Marlin firmware) and if you printed this part then 4.5mm retraction should be about perfect:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:46157
Without the above part you need approximately 5.5mm retraction.
STRINGING/TEMPERATURE
There is also less stringing if you print slower because the pressures are lower in the nozzle. For example 35mm/sec with .1mm layers. Be patient if you care so much about stringing.
And finally temperature - colder is better but you also have to print slower if you go colder to get that viscous stuff through the nozzle. Think toothpaste consistency when PLA is cooler and honey consistency when PLA is hotter:
http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/
I think it is the yellow Ultimaker PLA, its driving me crazy!.
1) Enabled
2) Right now it is in 1.5mm (I'll change it to 0.2mm)
3) Set to 0.02mm
4) Right now it is set to ON, I'll change it to NO
5,6) Thats what I have, (and I have the clip in place
)Speed I used was 80 mm/s
and this pla i printed it at 210C
Should I try 200ºC ¿?
Some of the circled areas in your photos are vertical lines that really look like they are in the STL and also the gcode. You can prove this by loading the gcode into repetier host and seeing if you still see all the artifacts. The blobbing you see in some of the pictures can probably be reduced by printing a little slower - see pumpkin picture here (post #12):
http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/?p=24010
But I've seen Cura create some bizzarre blobs for questionable, strange STL files and they stick out big time in repetier host. Repetier host is free. Once installed simply drag and drop your gcode file into it:
repetier host - free download:
http://www.repetier.com/download/
I see that speed affects a lot, I don't know where the gcode its right now, I deleted the file, but I'll try with the next one.
I'll check that program
As gr5 already mentioned. Check if it really retracts where the strings are. Just open layerview in Cura and check if there is a blue line that goes up! (those mean retraction). If cura does not retract there you have to change minimum travel in the expert settings. set it down till the upward line appears. I would not recommend to set this to 0, because it will then retract everytime it starts a new line, even in the infill. as shown here
Nice thing! I'll check it.
So I've checked the hole settings of that print and one I've made after:
here it is:
http://ultimaker.ipbhost.com/uploads/gallery/album_702/gallery_34510_702_3052512.jpg
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Hi guys, I am new into this world, and I don't really know what I am doing wrong.
This is the last printout I have done, Starting from the brim that its not straight lined, and bubbling, and also problems of stringing because of retraction?
If you could suggest tips in order to get better results.
Thanks
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I've heard about filaflex, but i think that it needs the extruder to be on the nozzle
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Great!!
didn't know that setting
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Perfect, I'll get a cristal!
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Hi guys, I have the ultimaker since a week and I love it as far as I've used it.
I am wondering if there is and option to enable retraction on the first layers and the brim, because for printing its not a problem, but if you want a nice finish on the first layers, it would be nice, I'll atach a picture of what i mean
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Okey, now i can design a doble fan anular cooling system, I'll post it on youmagine when its done!
(probably after april 11th, I am having a lot of hand ins before that date, I study architecture
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If the part has a nice flat bottom which you " think " would support the upper layers, then I use nothing.. just 60-64 degrees and nothing else... I do often use brim though, just to get the material flowing nicely. At first I was printing everything with 75 degrees and glue and bla bla bla... but nah, keep it simples
I like that, I'll give it a try, I don't like the fact of changing bluetape or messing to un stick the prints
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So...
I should either spray or put stick glue or something?
It's not posible to print straight over cristal or aluminum
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Gracias por tus cosejos.
Una pregunta más sobre filamento.
¿Alguien ha probado filafex?, ese filamento flexible.
En las ruedas de algunos robots se utiliza una cinta de goma elástica que se pone en la rueda para que tenga adherencia al suelo. Esa goma cada cierto tiempo se rompe por desgaste. Me pregunto si será posible hacer una anillo de filaflex para que tenga la misma funcción, banda de rodadura.
Un abrazo,
Francisco
El filaflex, por lo que he oído que cuenta su propio creador es necesario que el extrusor este montado en el cabezal, como la UP creo o algunas reprap, en el caso de la ultimaker no es así,
estaría interesante una modificación que permitiera dicha función
montando el extrusor en el mismo cabezal
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If you put the fans in parallel and the new fan uses the same amount of current you should be fine. The old fan will not run any slower. However the darlington transistor that controls the fans will get more stress. But it should be okay. Read about "series versus parellel circuits" on wikipedia.
So it has the same voltage, and some extra amperage, so that it can run the Fan with the same amount of power, and an extra one.
I mean, One fan (GUESSING) uses 5 volts and 200mAh two fans in parallel uses the same voltage but double amperage, that means that the board circuit has the capability to give that double amount of amperage
But they get a little bit warmer
Am I ok?
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PLA I use 65deg and blue painters tape. Sticks great, rarely need to use a brim.
I may try that, I thought that by having the heated bed i didn't need that any more.
For PLA I use 50°C on glass covered with a dried solution of water and PVA (wood glue). Works very good most of the times.
For finding the optimum temperature I would start with a temperature which works well for you, print a small object, lower the temperature 5 degrees, print again and so on. Until you found the temperature at which the object does not stick well anymore. Increase the temperature 5 or maximum 10°C and you have your optimum temperature.
I'll give that a try, I thought that I could print over kapton tape easily
I only tried printing PLA on Kapton once - it did not stick at all.
Try not using Kapton tape, you should get better results. I'd try printing on just the bare platform - you might need to play around with both bed and nozzle temperatures until it works.
For me it sticks, but later it warps, so, yo mean over the aluminum? Is it Better to use cristal or aluminum ?
Thanks to all you
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So, thats pretty much it, I am getting a lot of warping on the Ultimaker Original prints,
I need to always use Brim (which I don't like)
Someone told me to print in 100ºC but i think 70ºC sticks better, but I am sure that there is an optimum temp for it.
It's a PCB MK2 Heated bed, pasted with kapton to an aluminum plate (4mm), that has another shell of Kapton on top where I print.
So what should be the temp for printing PLA? so that it sticks perfectly with no brim needed. And what about ABS i tried once to do it, but it took the heated bed 30 min to reach 120ºC (it takes 11 to reach 100ºC, and 5-6 to reach 70ºC)
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The problem is when you want to raise the nozzle temp from 0 to 220C it takes 220 steps to get there which takes too long as it is. Cutting the steps in half would make it take twice as long for me to set the temp to 220. I prefer the way it is now - at least for setting nozzle temp. Same for fan speed (0 to 100%) which maybe should be in increments of 2 or 5%.
For me its ok, just hold it in between,
but maybe (i don't know about programing) it would be nice to go faster in the steps in the temp menus, and slower in the main menu
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I would like to see le layer number too!!
Instead of the printing message, a "Printing layer XXXX" (On the ulticontrol, and In Cura for those who print from there)
I am talking in an UM original,
maybe this could be done by Gcode
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I was thinking on placing to Fans to the Ultimaker Original,
I know its a dumb question, but...
Where do you plug the second fan?
Just to the same plug as the first one?
That means that both fans will run, but, half the speed that the ulticontroll says ?
I am kind of freaking out with this, and I can't find the answer anywhere.
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Hola!
Otra usuario de ultimaker por aquí. Hace sólo mes y medio que me llegó pero al comprarla por y para trabajar me he dedicado totalmente durante este tiempo. Suficiente para comprender bastante la máquina. Estoy deseando leer impresiones sobre la UM2. Yo finalmente me decidi por la original, por el precio, (la 2 no viene en kit) y segundo por que al haber menos usuarios y por su propia contrucción le puedes meter menos mano. Es menos manipulable, pero tengo la sensación de que va a ser muy buena máquina para "comprar e imprimir".
Cura puede ser sencillo pero no se necesita más. Puedes controlar todo lo que necesitas controlar, temperatura, filamento, velocidad y retroceso.
Comparado con Netfabb por ejemplo en lo único que supera es en la edición del stl. Pero netfabb demo sólo está capado para exportar el gcode, el stl se puede editar y guardar igual.
Lo único que he hechado de menos en cura es poder controlar los parámetros de impresión de cada objeto independientemente cuando se imprimen varios objetos o poder hacer variaciones temporales o según las capas de un objeto, esto sería fantástico para calibrar o para cambiar la velocidad o temperatura en los momentos en los que se necesita más detalle. Me ahorraría estar delante para hacer los cambios a mano.
Estuve probando con slic3r para ver si había diferencia según el slicer que se usa, pero cura me pareció mucho más potente.
Ha pasado tiempo desde que publicaste esto, pero en cura hay un plugin que te da la opcion de Tweek at Z simplemente cambiar parametros a partir de tal capa o tal altura; no se si te servirá ;
saludos desde Madrid
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Soldering the buildplate on the Ultimaker 2
in Coffee corner
Posted
Maybe ultimaker guys now more websites to buy them,
I have done a this one looks better, but there are way more connectors of this
This site its pretty much like DX.