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alnavasa

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Everything posted by alnavasa

  1. Hi Amedee, is there any way not to show the extruder 2 and 3 temps on the smart controller? Everything else works as expected! PS: Is it worth to upgrade the belts and pulleys to GT2?
  2. Thanks, the my problem is because there are so many different versions of this printer :S
  3. Does that also apply to the ultimaker Original with the 1.5.7 Electronics board. I currently have two 12v fans, and after reading in forums, bought a 24v impeller fan, connected it and it blows very vey slow.... and only with PWM higher than 175, so makes me think that maybe it is 12v. I attach the design down here
  4. On The Ultimaker original, does this apply too? I find my self struggling on how much is too much and how little is too little pressure, The knurled bolt on the original Ultimaker original has a different pattern than on the UM2 (I think), so I guess this apply differently right? how much is the right tension? I can't find any post explaining this, Only found the Ultimaker website, where "no marks" is too little and "material grinded" is too much
  5. A ver varios temas. yo tengo la original y me va estupendamente, la encontré de segunda mano por 800€ en madrid con 4 rollos cama caliente ulticotroler... el motor del extrusor hace mucho ruido pero hay un damper en thingiverse o youmagine que te puedes imprimir para evitar esto, de todas formas es mas ruidosa, al ser una caja de madera, en el tema de materiales, nylon no he probado policarbonato tampoco pero temas flexibles he probado el flexible de ultimaker que va bastante mal hay que imprimirlo muy lento, pero esto es un problema de diseño de todas las maquinas que no llevan extrusor directo, ni con la uno ni con la dos podrás imprimir bien bien materiales flexibles ya que al empujarlos por el tubo el motor, estos se encogen dilatandose y atascandose en el tubo (bowden). Habla con el de recreos (filaflex) que es un material español, y están siempre por todas las ferias, yo en cuanto a soporte tuve dos problemas una reedita que se me rompió (rueda de plástico) que intenté imprimirla pero requería un material muy duro, ultimaker me mando dos a 0€, por otro lado se me rompió el isolator tube, y eso consideraron que era un problema de uso a parte de que esa pieza si que la vendían ellos suelta en su tienda Un saludo desde madrid
  6. Add supports, it helps with the overhangs, It has a great potential, but needs to be studied, you can check iluminartis post at extrudable.me
  7. So right now I am printing over cristal (just placed over the aluminum) prints got way better, I think its due to what you say, the bed leveling, I think that the aluminum was not completely flat, cristal should be completely flat, and has a very difficult chance to be deformed. I didn't have time to check thing, and try other, just printing over cristal heated to 65ºC sprayed with hairspray, It sticks perfect, and its a little bit triky to get it out, but I didn't have time to make a 9 hour print and have that risk, so thats what I did. I'll try printing bare on the cristal next time, also printing first layer warmer, thats a good idea, Thanks gr5 for all the support given!
  8. English its not my main language, thats why I don't really know how to call it, So the problem with the overhangs its solved by less temp and more cooling? I've just installed a second fan, I'll try that later this days. Is there any source files for the WHOLE extruder in order to re cut it or re print it, because I have some broken wood parts there, In the github Ilustrator file there are not all the files from the extruder just the two hanging things ( My UM its a revision3, I don't care upgrading it to Rev 4 extruder)
  9. Thanks for answering, We should make our ultimaker go direct extruder in order to extrude this materials in a better way. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:110269
  10. Hey, is there any printable flex material that could print RC tires?, My dad its a big fan of them and he wants a specific tire dimension that its not in the market
  11. Yo me compre una UM original por aquí en madrid de segunda mano (por el precio mas que nada) de todas formas tendrás que estar atento a ver que se habla en el foro sonbre el tema del extrusr que estaba dando problemas, no es un tema de activarla o desactivarla, todo el mundo creo que la tiene activada para evitar que se formen esos hilitos http://www.jonshobbies.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/3D-Printer-OB-1.4-stringy-Y-Carriage-in-PLA-Closeup-zero-retraction.jpg
  12. La retracción siempre se activa (o casi siempre) consiste en que la maquina retrocede el motor que expulsa el hilo, ya que por su propio peso o inercia seguiría cayendo dejando hilos, de esa forma te los quitas, hay otra cosa que es el combing, que es parecida, que la maquina no retrae, pero hace un camino sobre la propia pieza para así si deja hilo que lo deje sobre la pieza (este hilo es depreciable en la calidad de la impresión, excepto si eres como yo que en la primera capa no me gusta el acabado que deja)
  13. Hmm, I'll try that, Right now I am printing a Ultibot with a new fan, I'll post the pictures if there are differences,
  14. I am finally starting to get great Prints, by slowing down the speed of the shells and increasing the infill speed. 1.2 mm of shell I still have some problems with the over hangs bending upside, and then the nozzle pushes them down, then they bend up again and like this all the time, I think its a problem of cooling
  15. I like the idea, But not the way to develop it, Isn't there any software way to develop that? PD: that Usb power, as someone told me(I don't know if it is true), can damage your computer PSU.
  16. This is the start G code I have in cura in order to know when the machine is heated ;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time} ;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density} ;Print time: {print_time} ;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g ;Filament cost: {filament_cost} M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line ;M109 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line M300 S1000 P1000 M300 S900 P500 M300 S800 P250 M300 S700 P125 M300 S600 P125 M300 S400 P75 M300 S300 P37 M300 S200 P500 M300 S1000 P9 G4 P3000 G21 ;metric values G90 ;absolute positioning M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode M107 ;start with the fan off G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops G1 Z15.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length G1 F200 E7 ;extrude 7mm of feed stock G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again G1 F{travel_speed} ;Put printing message on LCD screen M117 UltiMaking... The bold part of the Gcode Makes a kind of music sound, then pauses three seconds (where I check that there is enough material about to extrude), and then starts the procedure to do a print. While printing from SD card
  17. I'll Probably print it today or tomorrow, I am rewiring the heated bed connections of the UM, I need to do some soldering right now and I have the Machine sideways. But I would like someone with experience tells us what they think about the design. I model with Rhinoceros (free for mac (Beta version) and free for windows (trial version))
  18. Maybe ultimaker guys now more websites to buy them, I have done a this one looks better, but there are way more connectors of this This site its pretty much like DX.
  19. So, I was looking for a good system for a double fun duct, I ended up only finding one that I liked, I printed it, and It was for 40mm fans not the original size fans that the ultimaker comes with (50mm) So I've made a remix of one I've seen in thingiverese, Its a Design made for anular cooling system. I don't know which are the best options for cooling with two fans, Any suggesitions in the design or any other design out there that its good will be welcomed! Here it is: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/dual-fan-duct-anular-cooling
  20. So gr5; Here are the two fans I've bought, I think there is no problem with them, but I just wanted to check, They are 12V and 0.16A. Which means that both together consume 12V and 0.32A. The transistor Its for up to 4 Amps (I think I read that somewhere), so there should be no problem right? They also come with a different plug, but I solder them together and use the original fan plug(from the original fan), put al together with some shrinkable sleeve for the positives, and them for the hole wires. Clean and nice!
  21. Okey Guys, so, Today I've done a print of iRobert fan ducts (Which I didn't read and they don't fit my fans) (and also a gopro frame) at 50 mms speed, 200ºC, 5 mm of retraction and 35mm/s speed I had it on at the seventh layer (on the plugin settings) but I'll change it there its better and not that messy! So here are today prints (just one or two strings, and some points on the outer shell) Also Underneath the overhangs It looks worse
  22. I am getting this back, I am looking for good double fan duct for the original machine. I printed IRobert design from youmagine and then realized that its for smaller fans, which double fan do you recommend guys? I have two fans from the exact same since as the original one.(50mm in the outside, 40mm between holes (Which I think It was broken because it made some noise at the beginning)
  23. I don't know what happened with those pictures, report it to a moderator of the forum, because I have no idea what happened, they go far far away to the right of the screen.
  24. Yes, I considered that last one as a good print, But definitely there is a problem with the retraction in that yellow PLA, I'll try to play with that, maybe printing in lower temp helps too One of the problems I had in the previos print its that a screw that I printed didn't fit into the nut it was supposed to, And one day I noticed that a cube that I printed one of the sides was 9.8 mm and the other 10mm As you may have seen in the settings I am printing in 98% of flow, Because at the beginning the corners where made sharp, round, I did that by eye, but I want it to be better done I would like to calibrate it, the E steps, Is there a video for that? How should it exactly be done?
  25. It may be the bad leveling the problems with the brim. Why could not place it before? I thought that maybe the bowden tube moving may cause un even pressure, but I haven't read of this problem from anyone. The bottom layer height its the same one. I think it is the yellow Ultimaker PLA, its driving me crazy!. 1) Enabled 2) Right now it is in 1.5mm (I'll change it to 0.2mm) 3) Set to 0.02mm 4) Right now it is set to ON, I'll change it to NO 5,6) Thats what I have, (and I have the clip in place ) Speed I used was 80 mm/s and this pla i printed it at 210C Should I try 200ºC ¿? I see that speed affects a lot, I don't know where the gcode its right now, I deleted the file, but I'll try with the next one. I'll check that program Nice thing! I'll check it. So I've checked the hole settings of that print and one I've made after: here it is: http://ultimaker.ipbhost.com/uploads/gallery/album_702/gallery_34510_702_3052512.jpg
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