martin-bienz
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Posts posted by martin-bienz
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@ nintendstroid, yes, this fixed my issues (so far).
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LePaul, are you talking official upgrades? The heated bed upgrade from Ultimaker is coming soon(ish).
Also check this thread:
http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2771-complete-heated-bed-kit-for-ultimaker/
Personaly I just installed the HBK from Jason_HK and it is nicely designed and works so far (only 2 prints).
Martin
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@ Leo: Fantastic Model, wonderful finish, just great!
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yeah! Twitter no like very much. But I really like the UM Forum... !!!
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@ Jonny, uhhhohhh... das dauert aber! 5 Wochen Lieferzeit! Ok, auf jeden Fall viel Spass und Geduld. Bin sehr gespannt auf Deinen neuen UM!
@ Skodiar, ist ja sehr cool! Habe schon lange nichts mehr gespiralized... muss ich mal wieder probieren.
tja... bin gerade am heated bed installiern !! Freue mich auf warme drucke!
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yeah... it stopped. right?
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ja klar, die Grösse ist hier sicher ein entscheidender Faktor (aber mein kleiner wollte halt einen Grösseren :mrgreen: ) !
Hast Du schon HIPLA gedruckt?
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cool didier, thanks! Will consider this for my next bathroom installation.
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... IST der Hammer!
Hier ein UM Robot (2x so gross) gedruckt mit dem "glow in the dark" (glowt auch gut in the Dunkel):
Settings:
0.1 Layer höhe
15% Infill
210°
50 mm/s
0.8 Shell
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Hi Guys, very nice prints again!
@ Didier, great prints! Have you stretched the fishbone hanger yourself? Mine only has 3 "bones".
@ Targeter, that TANK, man, that blows my mind, great job.
I did a few tests with filaments that I just received from DiamondAge (via Dim3nsioneer, thanks!). Here the latest print with the DiamondAge glow in the dark filament. The UM Robot at twice the size, printed with 0.1 Layer height, 15% Infill, 50mm/s, 0.8 shell. Cool head lift was on and it did a fantastic job I think.
The filament really shines and gives a very smooth finish, can only recommend it!
Happy day to you all ladies and gents.
Martin
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...kann mich da Skodiar nur anschliessen. Stefan, vielen Dank (auch für die Spezial-Lieferung!).
Grüsse
Martin
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Kerry, good catch. Usualy you are able to spot those things rather quick in layers view. I you print with skirt (or brim) like me all the time you can tell just by looking at the skirt that something is not right.
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Yes Sander, it does, at least for me it did. But I was a bit 2 quick as it is an UM2 (and I have ONLY an UM1
.I could re-produce, that there were more issues (underextrusion) at the back of the print, especially with retraction ON. I even made pictures :mrgreen: . I can not say it was at the back of the printer but at the back of the print. Also, sometimes it would not extrude well at all. At the end, after replacing the teflon thingy, all works well.
Back (orientation was backside of the printer, nogood):
Front (good):
EDIT:
just saying, does not mean it's the problem described, but might give a clue. Picture might help!
AND, picture from the carved out teflon piece (I guess, as it was carved out quite a bit at the end it somehow bent over a bit with the force of the bowden tube?
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Or it could also be the teflon coupler (white piece between hot and cold. depends on your version of um also) that has some scratches, carved out inside (I had a very similar issue).
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I am right you are printing at 240? That's to hot for PLA if all is right and the speed is not to fast. Do you have the possibility to check the real temp of the nozzle (with an external thermo)?
Can you try at 200 (check your filament please) with 50 mm/s and 0.1 layer height, that's what I use every day.
Also, important, which version of Cura are you using!? Can you try with an older version then 14.03? (14.01 OR 13.x) Just to be sure...
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hmmm... still underextruding. can you move the printhead by hand with no problem (should be rather easy)? Also, can you insert and extrude the filament without problems (no hickup, no friction should be smooth). Can you extrude without issues by hand if it's hot, by turingin the gear (are you printing at 210?)
Change filament.
I am just guessing at the moment.
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@mariem, your print looks really nice! keep it up.
@AaronAlai, yes, thanks! I am really into designs that just print and go. No screws etc. I just love to come up with solutions to screw issues :-P. Your phone car case looks really good.
@ Nicolinux, I will share it with you. for sure. I have multiple versions for arms (length, width etc.). The inner diameter of the main piece is 5.15 cm, so it fits well with onto an UM1 standard arm / holder (shoud fit an um2 as well, right?). With the arms I have currently printed the diameter is 25 cm (that's 5 cm more than a standard UM reel).
I have planed to create 3 Versions of the arms. 1 for small amounts, medium and Large amounts (1 kg) of filament). I will need to prototype the arms sizes (maybe shape). Would you like to help prototyping? :mrgreen:
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Hi All
Did some work for my kids and some prints for a friend of mine.
First, I designed (in 123D Design) and printed this butterfly comb for my kids in two colors. They have there first letter of their first names in their respective blade. It's something I saw on thingiverse, so not completely my idea, but I re-designed it so it had no screws, a lock mechanism, printed well and was fit for kids (all round edges etc.).
Printed at 0.1 Layer, 0.8 shell, 210, 60mm/s with blue and yellow and white PLA from UM.
Second, I am working on a filament spool holder in Fusion 360. It consists of 4 arms, one main piece and one screw on cap. All snaps and screws together right of the print bed. This is my prototype print(could be better, allready workinbg on v2). Printed at 0.2 Layer, 1.2 shell, 210, 60mm/s with white PLA from SwissRepRap.
third (pretty big print), a pinhole for a friend of mine, not my design (http://www.thingiver...om/thing:323758), Printed at 0.2 Layer, 0.8 shell, 210, 60mm/s with white PLA from SwissRepRap.
I wish you all a great weekend and happy printing!
EDIT: If someone is interested in either comb or the filament reel, let me know. I will eventually post them on youmagine.
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matis, glad it's better. could you still post how much e-step you had to adjust? Did the belts, as suggested by gr5 where to loose? It's also for us to be a able to tell what the problem really was.
updated pictures please if you say not perfect... um1's are rather perfect :mrgreen: normaly.
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PLA ist da recht ungeeignet. Normalerweise kommt der Fanduct ja relativ nahe an die Aluminium-Heizkörper heran. Da hilft meiner bescheidenen Meinung nach nur eine gute thermische Isolation. Ich habe meinen Fanduct aus XT gedruckt (Glastemperatur 75°C) und gegenüber den Hotends mit Keramik-Isolationsstreifen abgetrennt.
Ist richtig, PLA ohne Isolation ist ein no-go. Ich habe meinen mit PLA gedruckt und dann mit einer zurechtgeschnittenen Leiterplatte isoliert (ich glaube epoxy, glasfaser). Das isoliert die Wärme vom Alu-Block schon recht gut. Ich hatte auf jeden Fall noch nie Probleme bis jetzt (längster Print, 22 h).
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Hi matis, welcome to the UM Community! Are you using Cura to slice? Which Version? Are you printing with 100% flow rate? Diameter Setting (2.85)?
I think you should start printing at a lower temperature. start with 210. I print UM filament between 200 and 210. Also, is your temperature reading steady or does it jump up and down a lot (jumps of 10C +)?
Have you calibrated your Printer? Meaning the axis aligment, steps etc.? Check http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Calibrate
Also and in this case, have you checked the E-Step settings (the amount of filament that is extruded). You should follow this procedure:
http://voltivo.com/blog/ultimaker-3d-printer-calibration
After you have adjusted your e-step (x,y,z also) settings, press store in Memory, so it gets save. I would also suggest to write the settings down (just in case you need to reset your settings).
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start by hovering over the text, that gives you some details. Also check this post (and probably others):
http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2745-cura-fix-horrible-setting/
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good advice by daid. but still the model probably needs some fixing :-P.
btw: it's ctrl-e in cura or in the menu under Expert, open expert settings... (and then disabling the fix horible Type A).
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Hi cobalt60. The Model / exported stl from sketchup is probably not water-tight. In Cura if you switch the mode to x-ray, do you see any suspicious sections? Also you could try to use the free netfabb model repair service at https://modelrepair.azurewebsites.net/ to repair your stl. But I would still suggest to fix your model in sketchup. There are many resources for sketchup and 3d printing, like: http://www.fastprotos.com/help/prepare-sketchup-files-for-3d-printing.php
There are some great sketchup plugins (inspectors) that help with that. I have not resently used sketchup but maybe someone can jump in for further advise?
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Complete heated bed kit for Ultimaker
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
@ gr5, really good post (reading it once more made me again aware of many things). thanks!
I have just installed the Jason HK HBK and I need to say it all went very smooth from order to installation. I went for the full thing. So the HBK itself, the borosilicate glass add-on and even the power supply. This should be a short summary of my findings and some kind of installation blog light.
This is already the 3rd iteration of the kit and you feel that right away when it arrives. The 3mm aluminum plate feels solid and the pre soldered connector seems strong. The relay module is very nicely put together and soldered also. The pre-assembled cable (power and heat sensor, thermistor) with female connectors fit perfectly and the length is just right. The wires are of good quality as far as I can tell (ratings are on the wire, but can’t recall). There is also a 4.7k ohm resistor included in the package to be soldered onto your UMs board (R4). The kit even comes with additional / extra cable to connect VCC / Control UM's board to the control relay!
I have always wanted to keep my UM1’s heated bed completely separate so I went for the 2nd Power Supply which was supposed to be switch on / off independently from the main power. I still want to print cold / blue tape with alcohol so I thought it would make sense not to combine everything together.
On to installing it, first, removed my “old” acrylic bed, removed all screws and just replaced the springs with the ones supplied with the delivery. The springs are wider, longer and stronger. This meant that after installing the Alu plate and the glass, I only had to adjust the Z-Stop slightly. And no, I did not convert it to 3 point leveling; I am still ok with 4 points (I know, I should do it anyway).
Afterwards it was time to connect the cables, solder the resistor onto the UM Board and connect everything according to the plan on ebay. Worked great, no issues there. Afterwards, connect all the power and ON. No shorts at least, so chance that hardware were installed correctly.
To Marlin: I thought to be smart and installed the standard “heated bead firmaware” that is issued with Cura 14.06. Ups. After initially showing the bed etc. it only shows a strange error message on the UltiController and hangs! No more connection anymore via computer / usb. Panic (a bit)! So, load the standard firmware in Cura, power off UM, remove USB. In Cura press load firmware and only then connect the usb cable to the Arduino. WORKS, it starts the firmware update before initializing! Great. So I guess not my thermistor in the Standard Cura firmware. I compiled my own Marlin with the correct settings, loaded it and all just works!
First, with all temporarily installed I print a case for the power switch also one for the relay board. It prints very nicely on the heated bed. After the prints, cut out the piece for the power switch (including fuse and on off switch with LED) and drilling the holes for power supply, relay and power switch. Connect everything together, screw the stuff to the UM, add some nice cable management and here we go. Fin.
I hope that helps the guys that are still to install one. Also find some pictures attached:
Edit: Still need to do add a nice cable management solution from the bed downwards... if you have any ideas, appreciate it.