th3o

I was also thinking about printing the alternative feeder just in case I need it. Like you said: why mess with it? :-P If there is no advantage at this moment I think I will keep it like this and have the alternative feeder on the shelf.

Hello guys, This thread helped me so much improving my UM2. After reading al the pages (pfew) I decided to loosen the headscrews as suggested in the beginning of the thread. I added pictures of some tests I did. My setup: UM2 Low friction spoolholder by |Robert| Filament guide by Geeks Colorfabb Shining Silver PLA/PHA When I just received the printer I had a lot of problems with the feeder grinding in the filament. After adjusting the feeder I don't have this problems anymore. As shown in the pictures loosening the headscrews solved some under extrusion I cannot decide whether to change the stock feeder for |Roberts|'s Alternative UM2 Feeder https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two The stock feeder is doing fine. Will |Robert|'s feeder improve my UM2 or make it more reliable? Here are some pictures: Test I did a couple of weeks ago: Test I did today: After loosening the headscrews: Now I joined the 10mm3 club I did some test at 200% speed 230C 240C 250C 250C 102% flow Again: will will changing the feeder give any advantages?

So Roberts feeder is the best at the moment? Doesn't surprise me. I'm using his spool holder and that one is awesome!

Maybe there has already been talking about this before and did I miss it in the 39 pages of this thread, but has someone any experience with this one: https://0x7d.com/2014/07/improved-ultimaker-2-material-extruder/ ?

OK. I think I understand what you mean

Why do you have to sweep the laser if you move the Z-stage?

With the use of the turntable I think the only side that is not scanned is the underside. But I think that will always be a problem...

Fast = 100 mm/s Slow = 25 mm/s

I have a problem with my UM2. Looks like I have over extrusion and under extrusion at the same time. At 200C there are layers with under extrusion and at the same time there are blobs like there is over extrusion. Increasing the temperature makes the under extrusion layers disappear, but leaves me with the blobs. Decreasing the temperature makes the blobs disappear, but leaves me with underextruded layers. On the picture (printed at 210C) you can see the blobs, and in one of the middle layers you can already see some under extrusion. I do have a picture of one printed at 200C but I have trouble uploading it. On that one you can see heavy under extrusion and blobs at the same time. Printing at (much) slower speeds makes no difference. Bed temperature (50C) makes no difference. Changing filament (Ultimaker or Colorfabb) makes no difference. What can I do to solve this?

Yes. That is the idea. So you can have a fixed bracket for the laser and the camera

@nallath That is what was the idea. At this moment I have a camera that I use for timelapse. It is mounted at a stationary position and I don't have any trouble with focus.

The idea is if you put it inside the printer 1)you can make use of the bed, so you can let it go up 1 step at the time, so you can make accurate scans 2) you can put a black cloth over it so you have a dark box to scan in. 3) by using the case of the Ultimaker you can make the bracket and turntable removable but mount it in a way the parts are always at the same position. Making it easier to calibrate. But maybe I'm wrong. The whole scanning stuff is new to me. About the background: you can make a black cardboard or plastic background

I'm thinking of a 3D Scanner inside the printer that can be used in the Ultimaker Original and Ultimaker 2. Something like David's Scanner http://www.david-3d.com/ Things needed: - turntable with a stepper motor that can be placed on the bed - bracket that holds a camera and a laser - software or modified firmware to lift the bed step by step while scanning (- background with dots) Of course the turntable and bracket has to be quickly removable when you want to print What do you think of the pro's and con's of a setup like that? Pro's: -easy construction -high resolution scanning possible (I think) - cheap -.... Con's: - limited volume that can be scanned -.... I would like to see your comments

Bump

Is this a step in the right direction: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-extruder-fan-mod#!design-information ?

Thanks. I will try that

What about cooling with a Peltier element? Don't know if that will be a solution. It's just my 2 cents... Example: http://www.conrad.nl/ce/nl/product/182610?WT.mc_id=gshop&gclid=Cj0KEQjwsJyfBRC729Oy5Pf26ekBEiQAYtd9QYOJiCIKO4z5-_Kx9KFNCT5u3w9mXaw0NTbkqab--HUaArNF8P8HAQ&WT.srch=1

I also like the way it is done in 14.07. But this week I added an Octopi and now (probably because I cannot use UltiGcode anymore) I lost this feature. Now it gives a blob somewhere on the bed and most of the time the first line is missing because the nozzle is not fully primed. Is there a way to get this action back by editing the start code? If so, what do I have to change?

Sounds to me like a faulty bearing. I think the only thing you can do is replace the fan.

I had the same problem. Try adjusting the white indicator on the extruder with the hex screw.

The print speed was already 20 mm/s. I tried another one, but now with Colorfabb filament. Temp 185, Speed = 20mm/s, Layer thickness = 0.1 Filament = Colorfabb It looks a bit "hairy" now. I think I have to print Colorfabb with a slightly higher teperature. The tiny holes are still visable. Did not try to increase the flow yet, like 3Dmaker4U suggested. I will try that with the next one in combination with a slightly higher temperature.

Thank you 3Dmaker4U for your respons. I'll try increasing the flow. See what that will do with the tiny holes. I already opened a hub at 3D hubs. I'm just experimenting with the settings to learn to know my machine and the 3D printing proces a little better.

Here are the pictures with the different settings. These are the settings I used: Marvin Profile Bed temp Nozzle temp Layer thickness Test 1 Marvin test 1 70->55 210C 0.1 mm Test 2 Marvin test 2 70->55 190C 0.1 mm Test 3 Marvin test 3 70->55 185C 0.1 mm Test 4 Marvin test 4 70->55 185C 0.2 mm Test 5 Marvin test 5 70->55 185C 0.1 mm Test 6 Marvin test 6 70->55 190C 0.15 mm You can see the holes that I was talking about at test 4, above the right eye and on the head. They are also around the right leg, but that is not really visible on the picture. Altough I think the result is not bad, as a newbie I try to figure out what different settings do and what the printer is capable of. Is there still room for improvement?

@3Dmaker4U I did print one at 0.2 mm layer hight, 10 mm/s and 185C. Almost no blobs but some small holes in it. @gr5 All the fans 3 are working. I had problems before with sticking to the bed. Now when I start at 70C and at layer 3 I lower to 55C I don't have sticking problems at all. It looks like a lower temperature is better. I had almost no blobs at 185C, but I think a little bit of under extrusion. Maybe I have to try 190C. At the moment it is printeing at .1 . See how that turns out. Fans are working. I will upload some pictures later on with the different settings.

I start the heated bed at 70c and lower to 55C after layer 3. Nozzle temp: 210C.