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bob-hepple

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Posts posted by bob-hepple

  1. Just been talking to my David Scanner Supplier he tells me there is a new Dual Camera System becoming available, I would wait and see the results but could be Good, He also told me of a new Dual Head 3D Printer coming out from LeapFrog, which also looks good.

    The extra Camera ads about £1,200 to the price of the system, so not much Change out of £5,000 Ouch.

  2. I made hex Headed nuts 16mm Dia by 5mm thick with a 3mm thread made from Stainless Steel. I use a Ratchet spanner for the adjustment. but its a pain. And yes I am Physically challenged.

    I will try your suggestion hear is a sample of my first layer

    5a331a3fc4896_Firstlayer.thumb.jpg.39cda89fa51b440298c0874d8b7c2cdb.jpg

    and when its gone really think this is the back of the print

    5a331a4096a40_Finishedback.thumb.jpg.fc4a9bf635a057fdafa72694c7d11463.jpg

    note the deformity

    Thanks for the advise will try it.

    5a331a3fc4896_Firstlayer.thumb.jpg.39cda89fa51b440298c0874d8b7c2cdb.jpg

    5a331a4096a40_Finishedback.thumb.jpg.fc4a9bf635a057fdafa72694c7d11463.jpg

  3. I use Bondtech on mu Um2 love it, but as Labern has pointed out there are some more point os the machine that are not so Good, Bed Levelling is a Real Pain for me and I was interested in the Raise but factory set is never a real option if things go wrong and they do your in trouble.

  4. Gr5

    Thank you for your advise, Levelling the bed is a real Pain "Literally" Due to my Physical Limitations. BUT I will take on board your recommendations and try, the .40 measurement if sticking is more important "NO RIM". Is there a dimension I could use, say .20?? or is it a case of Trying and see..

    I went to the blue tape because I was struggling with the first layer, after I installed the OB and spacer, my first layer has never been the same again. It tends to come out in splurges so some of the first layer is thin and clean and other parts is think. so sticking to glass became a problem/unreliable. After the first layer everything is fine... I'm using the .40 Nozzle from 3DSolex the short profiled one like E3D sell.

    http://3dsolex.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/Photo-01.03.15-22.19.32-300x300.jpg

  5. Thanks for the reply, indeed I saw your supports in the feeder and this was in my mind when I drew the Horse, but your supports where a lot thinner than mine and this is where I thought I might come unstuck (no pun)..

    I went to the Blue tape because I couldn't get a reliable print first layer is always messy (seriously) don't like the idea of the glue, blue tape worked just could not get the dam thing off.

    Thanks.

  6. Hi All

    I'm using S3D but that does not really matter hear in this question. I want a very clean print NO RIM and want to print a channel very cleanly in the picture below lies the Horse in bright Yellow is the main Body and in Orange is a channel I of set the edges by .20 and the face up to the main body has a gap of also .20 would this work as a support???

    I also printed for the first time on to Blue Tape as I wanted NO RIM and as the horse is being glued together I wanst bothered about the smooth glass finish. BUT how do you get the print of the bed without snapping the print it was a real pain trying to prise the print off I even re heated the bed to 40....

    Any tips with the Blue tape.

    5a331e07b66fa_screenshot3.thumb.jpg.1cf19d77195cca503df97d226335e278.jpg

    5a331e07b66fa_screenshot3.thumb.jpg.1cf19d77195cca503df97d226335e278.jpg

  7. Labern

    thanks for the description, I was sorely tempted, I am after a new printer, I expected there to be a few short cummings, will wait till middle of the year and just maybe there will be more choices.

  8. StephenK

    I am in the same boat I had a demo of the David scanner at the Mach Show in Birmingham it was not a good demo by any means but when I look at the Ein Scan, I have a feeling the software might be an issue. I have no reason for saying that BUT if the software is buggy and un helpful I think it would be a nightmare. Also the Einscan has just released there new scanner available in the UK for the last 4 weeks so getting hands on one to be demoed is hard. The david scanner now comes with a HD camera but when you start pricing the table up £700.00 just for the turntable I didn't think you would get much change from£4500.00

    that said I think I'm opting for the David.. when I can get a better Demo..

    Ein Scan was at the TCT Show in Birmingham last year offering a discount....

  9. Hi All

    Thanks for the input spent the afternoon drawing a support then create the STL and splitting the model

    5a331dd602f0e_screenshot2.thumb.jpg.37e1ee39ccf0d01444cc28bfbca4d5a3.jpg

    I offset the wall by .1 with no top layer and no bottom.

     

    The resolution for the supports, it's called 'Support Pillar resolution' and it defines how much it goes intro trouble to get every corder of the think that supports. The bigger, the less detail it's, the smaller, the more. It really depends on what you print. So play with it and check the gcode preview

    I never used this before hence not sure where it was I usually define supports as

    Stephan K Describes

    do we think my idea will work.

    5a331dd602f0e_screenshot2.thumb.jpg.37e1ee39ccf0d01444cc28bfbca4d5a3.jpg

  10. neotko

    thanks for the advise, yes I think the blobs are supports, but really they are not worth having I thought of editing the code directly but how do I find it, I know they are on line number 1856 but how do I get to it, if I were editing Gcode on my Mill then the Gcode lines are numbered so that's easy..

    not sure what you mean by the resolution of the supports don't know where Resolution is on the supports tab. Do you mean supports infill percentage???

    I have just printed a Horse and I find myself in a bit of a position I need supports on the outer side of the profile but because I also need to use a skirt/brim it makes the supports hard to remove

    5a331dd07ae98_screenshot.thumb.jpg.d6257a35c95f2713cd5cd161cfcce4f2.jpg

    Any help/advise appreciated

    5a331dd07ae98_screenshot.thumb.jpg.d6257a35c95f2713cd5cd161cfcce4f2.jpg

  11. is there a way of stopping retraction on supports. reason being I am print the shape of a horse and a portion of that needs supports but when the printer gets to this point it popps little pointless blobs of supports hear there and everywhere before getting on with the job of printing the supports.

    I know their a setting for minimal amount of retraction in layers but no control in supports just wondered if their was a work around. or just thinking about applying a support in cad...

    any suggestion of the best way of going about that...

  12. has anyone played around with the setting in S3d

    Extrusion width ???

    usually I have this set to Auto and with a .40 Noz it goes to .48 I have set it to manual with .35

    to see what it does as

    I am having a lot of problems ( just for a change??) with my first layer (again) I don't seem to get it a nice flat layer My first layer is a Mess some of it is nice flat and clean then it goes very messy thick a gloopy, and I also get better first layers on different places on the bed which leads me to think the bed is not level but I have levelled it numerous occasion.

    my settings are

    temp 200 (PLA)

    layer height .15

    1st layer height 110%

    1st layer width 85% (trying this to reduce the amount of material)

    1st layer speed 95% of 1500 mm/min

    now I'm not stupid on a print of a wheel which is 50mm dia half of the first layer is very good the other, a Mess thick bloby so thick when the head comes back to it, it has to melt its way past. after the second layer all is fine with a good print.

    any suggestions

  13. they are being sold via iMaker store going to look at them at the TCT Show in September I like the Z axis ball screw and I like no bed levelling although I wonder how good that would be in the time scale of the machine, a know a jolt in transit could be a world of hurt

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