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nigel-johnson

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  1. I have a model that I have designed in blender and I've textured the faces. I have printed it successfully at shapeways and I was wondering how I can print it on my Ultimaker as it is only 2 colours. The instructions seem to suggest that I can only print 2 separate models. Is there a way to get my model into 2 separate models? Or, some way to tell Cura about colours since it supports texture supporting file formats. Oh, my model is very low poly, so complexes in mesh mixer isn't going to help unless I can increase the poly count without changing the shape... which I'm not sure how
  2. The $149 price tag for Simplify3D would soon pay for itself in PVA savings. I love Cura and my Ultimaker and can't think of any other way to print, but I am considering switching to Simplify3D given this option (amongst others - variable infill for example, easier variable layer height, very exciting)
  3. I only upgraded to the 2+ about 3 months ago, and only been printing the last month, the PTFE coupler is brand spanking new. I have also been through several checklists regarding under-extrusion as well. The only thing I haven't done is put the spool on the floor. I'll have a think of a cooling option. Maybe air con is required sooner than expected, and a draft hood for the printer. I'll check out the feeder as well.
  4. Just in the last 2 days my impressively reliable, upgraded, UM2+ has been suffering from feeding problems, with the feed stepper grinding the filament. The filament spool is well aligned with no pull on the material and I have been printing at 60mm/s at 210C. I have had an acupuncture needle up the nozzle and done an atomic cleanout. There are no blockages and when I pull the filament out it's the perfect shape you would expect. I have increased and decreased the tension on the feeding stepper, and the feeding happens fine if the filament does not go into the hot-end, so it seems to be pressu
  5. At the risk of getting flamed I thought I'd add my oar. I have read most of the previous 14 pages and it has been stated that the larger population of users print PLA, and want support material or a second colour. Most of the problems around this seem to be with the energy you pump in to each hot end and can effectively suck away from the support material, so keeping cooler is preferable - PLA and PVA both print cool? PLA and PLA both run at the same temperature. So it seems that a fair portion of the user base could be appeased quite easily? I can understand people wanting a blindingly fast
  6. Ah, that's cool. It would be nice in the materials.txt file though as well :-P
  7. Hi there, personally I have never touched the retraction settings, I guess I could as I get some stringing and now some materials, for example bronzefill and bricklay are coming out that say don't use retraction for various reasons. With the advent of the materials.txt file, can overrides be added to this so that for "bronzefill" for example I can switch retraction off, of for "xxx" I can change the parameters. This seems like the best place for the overrides, since I can use the same gcode model and print it in different materials without having to fiddle on the printer or the settings in C
  8. White is definitely one of the hardest filaments to print due to the additives. I'm not a keen supporter of upping the temperature because of oozing and i was finding that printing at 220C was still a problem with most of the filaments I was using. I tracked (a significant part of it) back to the spool holder and the tension it caused with the feeder. I now have a set of rollers at 90 degrees to the old spool holder and the filament goes directly off the spool into the feeder. The friction is so low that when retraction happens, a new 2.2KG spool rewinds as well. Anyway, I have not had any big
  9. @Didier, You understood mostly correctly, it's the first layer of the raft I'm having a problem with, not the actual print. The print comes out (and is printed) exactly as expected and configured. I may play with tweakAt, but I guess it would be set the temp to 235, then tweakAt 0 back to 195 for a 10mm/s. THe only problem would be the first thing it printed would be all over the place until the head cooled sufficiently... unless tweakAt takes into account the raft? @Daid, thanks for adding AutoTemp to the feature list, but is auto temping something that can realistically be done, or would it
  10. Hi I'd like propose a change to the way temperatures are set when using an Ultimaker2. Currently they are defined per material but I do not believe this is the right place for that. Temperature defined the flow rate based on the materials ability to absorb the heat energy. Material then, has a 'resistance' to absorbing heat. Naturel PLA/PHA from ColorFabb has a lot less impurities and additives than the same material in white so resists heating less. This can be as much as 5 degrees in my testing. The required flow rate is actually defined at print time, when I know the speed and quality I
  11. UM2 for info. I have been printing smaller objects at 10mm/s with a raft in ColorFabb Naturel PLA/PHA at 195C. All good. I needed an STL with multiple of these parts printing with rafts so I used the same formula I have been using for ages... On the same day I saw an upgrade was available for 15.02.1 - I upgraded. I went to print my mutli-part print. When the raft first layer is put down it is too fast for the 195C and the feeder clutch pops a lot. I noticed that the first layer was WAY faster than 10mm/s, so I went to plan B - 40mm/s print speed, 20mm/s outer shell, 20mm/s first layer, 215
  12. I have had loads of problems with bronzefill as well as the bamboofill, and generally all to do with under-extrusion. My UM2 doesn't do 'small' at the best of times and intricate is also a struggle - cuz it's small. A few things that helped me (but not yet to the point of having an intricate bronze print as good as regular PLA) are in the ramble below. I note you have some experience - more than me, so apologies if anything sounds like I'm stating the obvious, but maybe it will help someone else as I couldn't find any info at first either :-P flow rate - yep, I use 108%, Colorfabb recommend
  13. I think I may have just found it. It seems there is a new version 14.12.01 that my installed 14.09 didn't think existed. In this version there are useful buttons for the expert settings, and the solid infill top
  14. I see in other 'slicers' that it's possible to print solid meshes with zero infill and no top layer - effectively producing a vase structure. Infill is already controllable, can we have an option to not print a top infill layer? Thanks Nigel
  15. Thanks for commenting. What's the longest print you've done? I want to print about 100g and about 9 hours. I normally leave this overnight, but I'm not overly keen to keep checking back. I think I may print a reel insert to increase the inner diameter of my spare reel and feed direct... hmm.
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