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qmaker

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About qmaker

  • Birthday 01/01/2015

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  1. qmaker

    Horsehead print

    Version 1.0

    642 downloads

    Really happy and excited by the potential of special filaments. This was my first print with the woodfill. Worked very nicely overall.
  2. OK, so I was able to get most of it to go away, but I still have one shift in my latest model arghhh. Must have occurred around 18 hours into the print, and I thought I had it taken care of. I tightened all of the set screws on all of the pulleys. Maybe my belt, or maybe there is one that just slips a bit still even when the set screw is "tight" I will retorque all of them again and post back whether it solved it, just in case anyone else experiences the same issue.
  3. Hi guys, After the um2 to um2 plus upgrade my prints have been quite nice. However, I have been doing smaller prints. Recently I tried printing at full build volume for a few different models. The print gets 10 hours or so (time is not relative here, just along way into the print) into the print and then there is a large offset and it continues to print for several hours then large offset again. I tightened all of the set screws at the pulleys and even marked the pulleys to see if I could see if any were slipping. Don't see it happening. The print is not slipping on the bed it is fully adhered not moving around. Any other suggestions of what to look for next? It is only happening in the Y axis right now. Is my belt perhaps slipping. Unfortunately, I have yet to be near the printer when it occurs so I can't catch it in the act. Thanks, Q
  4. qmaker

    3d scanner full body

    I did a fair amount of research and have used the Sense scanner. Works fairly well, but not the detail level that I want. I purchased the agisoft software and did multiple tests and watched all of the videos. I have tried to optimize my lighting eliminated backgrounds etc.... At this point I still have not got a decent model out. I eventually set it aside out of frustration. I will get back to it when I can devote more time. There is lots of processing time depending on the number of photos. I have seen amazing things done with it, so I am hopeful that I just need to continue fiddling until I find the magic settings and setup. I will post back when I achieve results worth noting.
  5. Thanks gr5, I will look into that. At first glance it seems very helpful. Does this replace my Cura firmware on my machine? Anything I should know or be aware of specific to the Ultimaker 2 with an upgrade kit to make it a 2+
  6. Hi I live in the Mountains and this time of year I frequently experience power outages. I have a surge protector and am considering a battery backup to potentially give me enough time to do something. Lately I have been doing longer and longer prints. Anyway, I was wondering if it would be possible to have some way that the machine could recognize that the power dropped or switched to battery backup or something and either pause the print so that I can resume from the same place later, or even store some information regarding the height or layer that it was on so that I could resume from there. I currently just measure with the calipers and setup new gCode with the model sunk into the plate wherever I left off. Any other ideas or solutions? Maybe I am just making this too complicated and I should just print and hope the power stays on. Restart the print if needed.
  7. I am recaibrating the buildplate again, checking my rod alignment again, and doing more tests, but so far my print quality comparison between before and after the upgrade has slipped a bit. I was kind of hoping that it was a difference in the slicing and not a result of the hardware. It's nice and quiet now and it seems more dependable so far. No haggling with it to get things printing first try, but the quality is about the same a little worse so far. I will keep tweaking to see if I can get a handle on it. One model that I printed right before the upgrade printed fine, after the upgrade the print failed. I will look into possible user error issues before blaming the upgrade. Thanks,Q
  8. Hey guys, here is a dumb question, but..... Do I need to recreate my gcode for models that I setup in earlier versions of CURA when my machine settings were for ultimaker2 and not ultimaker2+? I installed the upgrade and have had issues printing one of my older files. Didn't know if maybe it was because of the question above. Thanks, Q
  9. Hi guys, I have owned my Ultimaker2 for a long time now. I have encountered all kinds of issues along the way that were resolved with sometimes simple and sometimes more difficult solutions. Like many I am anxiously waiting for the 2+ upgrade. But, until it comes I have an issue that has been getting worse and has only been exacerbated by my interim solution. Here is the short of it. The bowden tube, the collet and the clip are no longer holding the bowden tube tight and in the proper position. As a result it forces the tube up during extrusion throughout the print. After the print is finished, I can either immediately print something by pushing the tube back into position and keeping things hot. However, if I wait any period of time the end of the filament creates a ball in the hot end and will not extrude without pulling the clip and bowden tube out and cutting and replacing the fresh end back in. There is not a clog in the hot end. I believe it is forming the ball of obstruction before it enters the nozzle. As a result of removing the bowden tube over and over to cut the filament it has become even looser. I have printed a clip that was on youmagine that helps hold the bowden tube down by attaching to one of the main head bolts. The problem persists. Any suggestions to keep me printing while waiting for the upgrade. I hate to buy a new tube collet and clips plus shipping just to get me by until I receive the newer parts with the kit. Thanks, Q
  10. It would be interesting to see a video clip of a before and after install for sound difference etc.. Might also be neat to see a print before and after. If I get a kit, I will do it and post the results here. Until then, thanks to everyone for sharing their experience so far.
  11. qmaker

    translucent filament suggestions

    gr5 Is the upgrade kit past the private stage? Are the components that you offer, the same or similar to the UM upgrade kit? Specifically, is the Meduza extruder and Irobertis feeder and Laberns fan shroud all better worse comparable to the UM kits. What are the side by side advantages or disadvantages that you have found. Considering how many people are trying to get the upgrade you must be swamped selling this in a more cost effective way.
  12. qmaker

    3D printed hair

    Has anyone here experimented with setting this up and printing it for any given purpose on the Ultimaker?
  13. qmaker

    translucent filament suggestions

    Great advice and tips. I love this place. I had completely forgot about the infill visibility. Duh.... I might have to rethink my model a bit and do some small test prints to see what I can get. I am not going for complete transparency but I do want to avoid being able to see any geometric infill etc... Thanks for the tip about Taulman and XTC I am very excited about this and am about to run in and try it on an old model I printed in Red Tglase!!!!! gr5 what do you feel were the greatest advantages to the upgrade kit? If I am going to do the nozzle, I will likely go ahead and do the whole upgrade kit. Feeder improvements?
  14. qmaker

    translucent filament suggestions

    Thanks guys, I had heard that regarding layer height and refraction. It creates a better transparency is that correct? I am using the standard nozzle so .4, but I am considering doing the new upgrade which would give me larger nozzles to work with right? There seems to be a lot of buzz right now about the upgrade, but I think I will hold off a bit until I hear some reviews from the folks that have made the change. I feel like I finally have my extruder working and am weary of going back to the original looking feeder, even though it is supposed to be better.
  15. Hi everyone, I am about to do a max build size print in a translucent material. I have already printed it in a solid color PLA. I would like to have a bit of success, so thought I would ask what translucent materials people have had good results with. I was leaning toward Colorfabb, but I am open to any brand that people have had good results with. Any photos would be helpful. Up until now my only experience with anything translucent was tglase, which was OK after I managed to figure out optimal temp settings. Thanks in advance for any suggestions and opinions, Q
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