qmaker

Awesome Thanks JSW, in my case the filament is less than a week old, but I think that is great advice/idea either way. I think my main issue is that the tension becomes too great due to the filament getting itself into a bind or the spool creating too much tension by not turning freely. I will try out the air fryer trick as well. Thanks for your help.

I know several people have come up with different solutions for the spool holder. When I try to do extremely long prints I almost always end up with broken filament somewhere during the print causing failure. If it were smaller print I sometimes measure out the amount of filament needed so that I can cut it loose from the main spool to cut down on drag etc.. My question is, whether there is a consensus or go to design for a spool holder that incorporates bearings or other method to help remedy this. Again, I realize there are several options out there. I was hoping someone could chime in with a design that seems to have worked successfully for them or others. Thanks,

Ok, so after resetting factory settings, unplugging, restarting everything, removing and installing new filament. It did the same thing. Just hung on the same screen. I went to tune and adjusted the temp to 210, the nozzle heated to 210, checked the bed temp. It was calling for 60 but was not heating. I dropped the temp to below the ambient temp that it was at and returned to the print. Print began. SO now I am realizing that the Bed is not heating, which is why it is hanging. I checked the wiring to see if there was any obvious signs of problems and wiggled the wires a bit just to see if it made anything change while I was asking the bed to heat. No change. Any ideas? THanks, Q

Thanks I just went and tried changing that Reset it to the normal PLA setting. Then tried custom settings that I had setup. Same thing. I noticed that the build plate isn't heating even if I go into tune and try to adjust the temp there. If I adjust the nozzle temp it seems to work. Baffling, I have never done it because I wasn't sure what it would reset exactly, but I am thinking of selecting the reset to factory defaults to see if that will do something. I unplugged it completely for about 5 minutes and restarted it just to make sure there wasn't some glitch or bug, but still the same. I guess I shouldn't be too surprised. I have used this old printer for more hours than I expected it would make it.

Hi guys, I have an older Ultimaker 2. Just printed with it fine yesterday. Today I went to start another print. I selected the file, It moved the head to the front. Screen says preparing to print, heating up... but just sits there. If I go to tune, I can see that the temp is not changing on the bed or at the nozzle. If I change the settings in tune, the temp will increase properly, but it will not continue to setup and load the print. Any help, ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,

OK, so I was able to get most of it to go away, but I still have one shift in my latest model arghhh. Must have occurred around 18 hours into the print, and I thought I had it taken care of. I tightened all of the set screws on all of the pulleys. Maybe my belt, or maybe there is one that just slips a bit still even when the set screw is "tight" I will retorque all of them again and post back whether it solved it, just in case anyone else experiences the same issue.

Hi guys, After the um2 to um2 plus upgrade my prints have been quite nice. However, I have been doing smaller prints. Recently I tried printing at full build volume for a few different models. The print gets 10 hours or so (time is not relative here, just along way into the print) into the print and then there is a large offset and it continues to print for several hours then large offset again. I tightened all of the set screws at the pulleys and even marked the pulleys to see if I could see if any were slipping. Don't see it happening. The print is not slipping on the bed it is fully adhered not moving around. Any other suggestions of what to look for next? It is only happening in the Y axis right now. Is my belt perhaps slipping. Unfortunately, I have yet to be near the printer when it occurs so I can't catch it in the act. Thanks, Q

I did a fair amount of research and have used the Sense scanner. Works fairly well, but not the detail level that I want. I purchased the agisoft software and did multiple tests and watched all of the videos. I have tried to optimize my lighting eliminated backgrounds etc.... At this point I still have not got a decent model out. I eventually set it aside out of frustration. I will get back to it when I can devote more time. There is lots of processing time depending on the number of photos. I have seen amazing things done with it, so I am hopeful that I just need to continue fiddling until I find the magic settings and setup. I will post back when I achieve results worth noting.

Thanks gr5, I will look into that. At first glance it seems very helpful. Does this replace my Cura firmware on my machine? Anything I should know or be aware of specific to the Ultimaker 2 with an upgrade kit to make it a 2+

Hi I live in the Mountains and this time of year I frequently experience power outages. I have a surge protector and am considering a battery backup to potentially give me enough time to do something. Lately I have been doing longer and longer prints. Anyway, I was wondering if it would be possible to have some way that the machine could recognize that the power dropped or switched to battery backup or something and either pause the print so that I can resume from the same place later, or even store some information regarding the height or layer that it was on so that I could resume from there. I currently just measure with the calipers and setup new gCode with the model sunk into the plate wherever I left off. Any other ideas or solutions? Maybe I am just making this too complicated and I should just print and hope the power stays on. Restart the print if needed.

I am recaibrating the buildplate again, checking my rod alignment again, and doing more tests, but so far my print quality comparison between before and after the upgrade has slipped a bit. I was kind of hoping that it was a difference in the slicing and not a result of the hardware. It's nice and quiet now and it seems more dependable so far. No haggling with it to get things printing first try, but the quality is about the same a little worse so far. I will keep tweaking to see if I can get a handle on it. One model that I printed right before the upgrade printed fine, after the upgrade the print failed. I will look into possible user error issues before blaming the upgrade. Thanks,Q

Hey guys, here is a dumb question, but..... Do I need to recreate my gcode for models that I setup in earlier versions of CURA when my machine settings were for ultimaker2 and not ultimaker2+? I installed the upgrade and have had issues printing one of my older files. Didn't know if maybe it was because of the question above. Thanks, Q

Hi guys, I have owned my Ultimaker2 for a long time now. I have encountered all kinds of issues along the way that were resolved with sometimes simple and sometimes more difficult solutions. Like many I am anxiously waiting for the 2+ upgrade. But, until it comes I have an issue that has been getting worse and has only been exacerbated by my interim solution. Here is the short of it. The bowden tube, the collet and the clip are no longer holding the bowden tube tight and in the proper position. As a result it forces the tube up during extrusion throughout the print. After the print is finished, I can either immediately print something by pushing the tube back into position and keeping things hot. However, if I wait any period of time the end of the filament creates a ball in the hot end and will not extrude without pulling the clip and bowden tube out and cutting and replacing the fresh end back in. There is not a clog in the hot end. I believe it is forming the ball of obstruction before it enters the nozzle. As a result of removing the bowden tube over and over to cut the filament it has become even looser. I have printed a clip that was on youmagine that helps hold the bowden tube down by attaching to one of the main head bolts. The problem persists. Any suggestions to keep me printing while waiting for the upgrade. I hate to buy a new tube collet and clips plus shipping just to get me by until I receive the newer parts with the kit. Thanks, Q

It would be interesting to see a video clip of a before and after install for sound difference etc.. Might also be neat to see a print before and after. If I get a kit, I will do it and post the results here. Until then, thanks to everyone for sharing their experience so far.