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Posts posted by Labern

  1. There are many other filaments that have carbon fiber in them and some glass fiber ones.

    I find the best are Nylon based ones. Easier to print with really strong layer adhesion. You just need to store it in a dry container and dry it before use.

    XT-CF20 doesn't really have good layer adhesion but I normally print at 30mm/s to help make it stronger.

    Most filled filaments give a really nice finish and the colorfabb nGen lux looks really good, hiding the layer lines if you dont mind paying for it. 

  2. 12 hours ago, JohnInOttawa said:

    Great thread! 


    I would be curious to know how closely these expansion parameters transfer to the UM3.  I would like to dial dimensional tolerance in a bit better there as well.




    It pretty much works for every printer. I use it sometimes on my UM2+, The amount of adjustment required may change per printer though. 

    • Thanks 1

  3. To help remove the elephant's foot you can lower the initial layer height to 0.1.

    I also use initial layer horizontal expansion set to -0.2 for a 0.4mm nozzle.

    I normally adjust my designs so holes are +0.3 for small holes through to +0.1 for large holes. as the smaller the hole the bigger the pull-in effect effects the size of the hole. 

  4. Well with PLA and trying to get perfect details then you want as little heat as possible. The Aluminium build plate wasn't meant for PLA and inclosure is also not wanted for what you want to achieve. Its more meant for engineering materials. Different materials require different methods to gain the best results. 

    To get a good curve on the bottom of a PLA print you don't want any heat on the bed or the rising heat will make the edges curl up too much and give bad results. A 45deg shape will always give a better result than a full curve on the bottom as a curve has a steeper angle the gradually gets less. 

    I normally put a small 45 deg angle at the base where the steep part of the curve would normally be is to avoid this or I use breakaway support material.

    You can also reduce the layer height to reduce the amount of overhang of filament for each layer. 

  5. All version of cura should have both UM2 and UM2+ firmware. You can manually select the one you want to install by selecting install custom firmware. In the (cura version)/resources/firmware folder you can find UM2 and UM2+ firmware


    But you should have a look at Tinkerware. Its a great addition to your UM2 and you can even change the direction of the feeder in the menu. you can find it Here

  6. This is an Ultimaker forum so you may not get your answer here. But check your nozzle is clean. Maybe carry out an atomic pull. Check filament passes through the bowden tube and nozzle properly. You can heat the nozzle, open the feeder and push filament through by hand and it should push through without too much force. 

    other then that have a look for a CR10 forum which may offer better advice. 

  7. I would turn off retract before outer wall. It probably oozed a bit during travel moves and then underextruded on the pillars.

    For something like this, you are a lot better off not printing it as one piece. Not only would you have a heap of print time and PVA but you could get a lot better quality pillars. If you designed this yourself then you can make the pillars slot into place and add a dab of glue.

    • Like 1

  8. Yeah, I also find nGen quite brittle using the 0.25 nozzle. I would probably increase the temp a bit, Turn off Z-Hop and avoid printed parts when travelling to reduce travel times and keep heat on the part. nGen doesn't really have the best bond to itself which means that the strength between each wall and layer is not hugely strong. Using a 0.25mm nozzle means you have even less strength cos the print lines are so small. 

    Keeping the part as warm as possible without affecting your print quality is the best solution. So maybe up the temp and play with retraction, travels and combing to reduce oozing.

  9. If layer view looks ok then you probably have under extrusion or a problem with your z-axis.

    If its the same height in every print then it will be Z-Axis. but if you get it randomly then is probably under extrusion.

    A closer look at the missing layers would help determine your issue and sharing what printer you have and material used, settings like nozzle size, speed, temp and layer height will also help.


  10. On 3/2/2019 at 2:09 AM, WesleyE said:

    @ultiarjan , thanks for trying this version! We also probe the 'movement area' of the first layer since we need to move there with the nozzle, so we also need to compensate for build plate deformation in order to prevent potentially scratching the bed. That is why you are seeing the bigger probe area you illustrate.



    Could a Z-hop be added on the first layer to the first extrusion point for both extruders and travels to the material change position? This would eliminate any risk of scratching in the larger movement area. 

    • Like 2

  11. To me, the 10cm up is nice as I won't have to manually move the material. change the core then guess how far to manually push the material back into the core.

    I did find some materials did require heating the core like TPU and PP as they would have a string stuck that wasn't easy to break by pulling.

    You could put a mark on the bowden tube to where you need to manually feed the material to as it will now be a visible location.

    would be a nice feature for UM to add this mark and notify people that if the need to manually move material for any reason to move it up to the mark to prevent grinding or under extrusion. maybe a small band of red heat-shrink or something could be used. 

    • Like 1

  12. I think you will have issues with bed levelling. The original idea was to have a button on the screen that you select to tell it the alloy plate is installed so it could count for that. But not too sure.

    Also you may have some issues trying to machine such a large area and get the correct flatness as it will tend to try and warp on you. The tolerance on stock MIC6 is 0.125mm which is not so ideal. 

    But yes. Do try. You might get what you're wanting. 

  13. I use adhesion sheets on mine and its no issue. Maybe you have a sensor issue and should contact your reseller.

    The reason it probes with a hot nozzle is in case there is a bit of losing that has gone hard and sticks out, it will level your bed at the wrong height. The hot nozzle should melt through your adhesion sheet but if its pressing though it then the sensor in the print head isnt detecting the change in values.

    Are you running the latest firmware.

  14. I more wanted it for the security of knowing that this setting won't change doesn't matter what I do as currently I don't have any trust in this and have lost these setting changes a few times. But you are right, Being able to select which values to keep/discard would be a good alternative. 

  15. Yeah, but I would like to keep those values locked in place so you can make temporary changes that when you are asked to keep or discard changes, Ones that are locked will always be kept but unlocked ones can be discarded and set back to default.

    I have some settings that I never change and would like to be set a certain way whether it's a custom profile or default. So having it locked would be nice. but then sometimes I might make a few small changes depending on the model that can be discarded once that print is done. 

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