Labern
-
Posts
2,438 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
35
Content Type
Forums
Events
3D Prints
Posts posted by Labern
-
-
If the parts were designed as an assembly with the same reference point. When you merge the parts in cura then they refer back to this reference point so the desired placement isn't lost.
When they are first imported they will be 2 parts on the bed. You can select each part and per model settings and which extruder etc. Then merge the parts and they will then snap together as an assembly.
-
1
-
-
Hey there.
It doesn't look like it has modeled the screw in inventor and it's only showing an indicator that it's a threaded hole.
You may need to get the thread modeller add in for inventor so it actually creates a threaded model.
-
1
-
-
Hey there.
Due to the nature of how 3D printing works there can be shrinkage on ID of holes. As it's extruding in a circular motion the material tends to pull inwards.
A lot of people design parts and add .2 or .3mm or so for holes in their designs to cater for this.
Now there are features in cura like hole horizontal expansion to help make it more accurate.
There are many factors that can alter the accuracy. Speed, temp, material etc.
-
You Picture shows that you have selected S3 printer but you title say S2. was this a typo or do you have a UM2?
-
This is due to the UM2+ only having one nozzle on the LHS of the print head. This makes it not possible for it to print all the way to the RHS edge of the bed
-
2
-
-
The best way to remove it is to manually heat the nozzle, start the temp low so the filament is firm on outside but pliable on the heater block. This helps it pull off cleaner. then using some long nose pliers pull the bulk of the filament off. You can then heat it more so it's liquid then wipe it with a rag.
-
Hi there.
ColorFabb have a wood fill filament which has a profile in the marketplace for the S5.
Not sure if it's in any stores in US but you can buy it direct from them.
-
You might find it's due to you selected layer height and the curvature of your model.
You could adjust the later height as an exercise to see how it affects those top layers.
-
1
-
-
I think you will find that the initial layer height will be greater the 0.1mm
This setting is hidden in your screenshot. You can search this setting or press menu button next to search settings, there is "manage settings visibility" and you can tick the box for it to show in your menu.
By default it is set at a fairly high layer height to aid with bed adhesion but it can be lowered to 0.1mm especially for a small print like this.
-
Hi there.
PA6 works very well on the UM3. I use it all the time. You can get great results with 0.25 nozzle.
The main thing is keeping the material dry. I store mine in a sealed container with desiccant and sit on the heat bed for a few hours before use. It does depend on how humid you environment is.
I have a part that I printed over 2 years ago on my roof of my house and it's holding up very well.
-
1
-
-
Hi there.
It looks like the model is not a solid model and there may be an open face or have errors in it.
Some programs like SketchUp allow you to draw faces that don't form a solid model. Which means that if you were to fill it with water it would leak.
-
-
Today I printed a reverse camera holder and plastic welded it into the number plate light cover.
-
3
-
-
So I have found my post-processing script and found it works in Cura 4.8.
Problem is I used someone else script and changed it to suit my needs and their script has a Copyright so I don't really want to share it until I know what that means and what steps I would need to take before I can share it.
-
I'm guessing this is a z layer change.
But have you looked at you model in x ray mode to see if there is any areas that are problematic? Or looked at movements in layer view to see what kind of movement this is?
-
I used CURA and a post-processing scrypt that I made. I will have the scrypt somewhere but it will only work with a older version of cura.
I think the laser connects to one of the fan connections to give it PWM control so you can adjust the laser power via scrypt.
-
Hi there.
You must have a loose pulley which is causing shited layers. Here is a guide to correct it.
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#shifted
Also check both short belts while your at it.
https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011598659-Check-the-tension-of-the-short-belts
-
Would be able to show a screenshot of layerview with your support settings?
-
Hey there.
You need to load your stl file into ultimaker Cura. Cura will then slice the model ready for you to print.
Then you save the sliced model onto the sd card and it will print for you.
-
Just be careful putting them in the oven as an oven a low temps can fluctuate too much and overheat the spool. I tend to use the heat bed of the printer.
A food dehydrator also works very well.
If it is too dry then I would leave it out in open for a 4 or 5 hours and it would soften enough. But I live in 60+ humidity
-
1
-
1
-
-
There are many options for adjusting the amount of support.
By default supports normally extend past the print by 3mm or so which you can adjust with the support horizontal expansion setting.
There is a Support blocker to stop unwanted support
Also the support angle can be adjusted. I find I can normally print fine up to 60deg and default is set to 45deg.
This page Here will give you a lot of useful information to improve your supports.
-
Under quality there is a "Skirt/brim line width" check to see what that setting is as I maybe wider then your nozzle width.
Also there is a "initial Layer Line Width" which is a percentage.
-
Very nice. Thanks for sharing. Was thinking of making something like myself one day so this will be a perfect guide.
-
I think the fan shroud is just slightly wider and the head must have been very close to touching before you upgraded. My UM2 rubbed from the factory when I got it and fan shroud wasn't bent so I had to put a slight bend in the sensor.
Unless you skipped the belt on one side which isn't that easy then you alignment should be fine. There are alignment tools on to imagine that you can print to check/correct this. Or move print head to one side and see if one sliding block hits the pulley before the other side.
PLA print stuck to glass plate
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Hey there.
One good method is to put it in the freezer and it will pop straight off.
Are you trying to remove it while the glass is still hot or warm as it will still hold on stong if this is the case.