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Everything posted by Labern

  1. Sorry it was meant to be retractions. Stupid auto correct. Yeah it's meant to be more clear/ white. The more moisture it gets the more yellow. There is a difference in side of glass. Sticker side is the side your meant to use. Some materials it doesn't matter but it always helps to have it the correct way around.
  2. Normally you can if its gone bad if it hisses and crackles when it prints or if the roll looks quite yellow . I have had one roll that's was bad from new but generally it should be good. Does it have a lot of retractions On the parts that are not printing well? Does the glass plate have the warning sticker facing up?
  3. Ahh yes now I remember. The model I designed rotates the feeder around a bit so it would fit. Drilling 2 holes is probably the best option. Swap the 2 outer wires.
  4. Yes the wires still need swapping as when you install the kit on an UM2 ultimaker tell you to install the UM2+ firmware. In this firmware the direction is reversed. Swapping the wires allows you to reverse it without firmware change. Not sure about motor size difference. I'm sure when I j stalled the kit on my um2 it was the same size as the old one. I would stick to the original um2go feeder then. It will also give your feeder better resolution.
  5. Looks like there is a lip on the top of the part that sticks out and why it's creating support. You can add support blocker to the top section of you part and will stop your unwanted support. Sometimes I try to adjust the support angle from 45 deg to 60 to reduce support on angled parts.
  6. It will crash in the corner of the printer as the x y coordinates will be off. Sure I will share them this weekend some time.
  7. Hey. It's uses 2.85 but the default feeder is very weak. If the PTFE coupler is old then it won't feed properly and may need replacing. You should be able to edit and create material profiles on the printer menu or downloading the material data onto the sd card then editing the text file. There are heat bed kits on eBay that look quite good. Like the UM2+ pcb ones. But I haven't tried one. I laser cut my own front door and haven't made a top enclosure for it though. No problem using flex plate. Look on eBay as there are a few UM2go things on there. Quality can vary but as UM didn't sell huge numbers of the UM2go it's hard to find proper stores with parts for them.
  8. Yes you would need to print my cover if you want the UM3 feeder to fit the case. You change the steps to 738 if you use the UM2go stepper or 369 if you use the UM3 or UM2+ stepper.
  9. I would stick to the same UM2go stepper as it will give higher resolution which is good for 0.25mm nozzle. And yes the UM3 feeder is the same.
  10. The feeder that comes in the extrusion upgrade kit has gears unlike the original UM2go one. Because of these gears it means the E steps need to be changed so that it will extrude the correct amount of material. Also the gears change the direction the feeder will be turning, so yes the wires on the stepper motor need reversing. There are different ways to change the E steps. Using the tinkergnome firmware is the best as you can change the E Steps in the menu and still use the material change option. Also a lot of people don't use the material change menu because it's slow. You can just lift the lever on the feeder and pull out the old material then push in the new one. If you ever get stuck just ask. I would have provided some photos to help explain a bit better but I'm unable to right now.
  11. Hi @medicalmodeller Yes the feeder cover is only if you want it to fit in the case after doing the plus upgrade. You can just use the plus upgrade feeder if you don't need it to fit in the case. If you install the custom firmware then you can change the the E steps in the menu and it also allows you to use heated bed. The custom firmware gives a lot of great features. So you can install the upgrade and custom firmware that's it if you want. You can also change the E steps by sending the following code to the printer. M92 E369 M500 And this will set the correct E steps. But if you do it that way you can't use the material change in the menu as it will be too fast.
  12. It's ok, I don't think your trying to be smart. A lot of people have a misunderstanding of how it works and it's good to know as it can help problem-solve if you do. The sensor is on the bottom of the print head. It's on the bottom of the front fan door. If you open the fan door and look inside you can see 2 wires connecting to the base. That's the sensor. You can read about how it works HERE as it is the same one as in the UM3 and this link has a full better description of the whole background of how's it works and why. The only difference is on the S5 it has more measuring points not just 3 which helps it compensate for imperfections in the glass and also you can't turn off the feature.
  13. On the S5 The sensor in the print head is measuring the alloy plate. As the print head gets closer the sensor reading is increasing. When the print head touches the glass the sensor reading stops increasing and stays constant. At this point the printer knows that it is touching the glass and stops.
  14. When the printer is active levelling it has a sensor that is reading the aluminium plate under the glass. Putting an additional 10mm of plastic on top of the glass would probably put it out of the sensors range so it won't work. The only thing I can think of is to put tin foil on top of your 10mm panel. It would have to be without wrinkles and then quickly remove it after levelling (if it works) when the cores are heating to print. The tin foil should be thin enough to not offset your bottom layer any more but may get damaged during levelling.
  15. I normally don't add more infill then 30%, I normally stick to 20% and if i want a part stronger I add more walls and top/bottom surfaces.
  16. The infill will protect the top from collapse. Support goes on the outside to help print things that stick out. There is only the ring on the side of this part that is effected but because of the shape and it doesn't stick out far I think it should be fine without support.
  17. It's more like acetone ABS, smooth and shiny. I don't have a before but you can see it's very smooth. Depends on how long you leave it depends on how much it smooths it. You can also use Chloroform to melt 2 parts together.
  18. Can you post a project file or screen shot of how it looks in cura, layer view?
  19. I don't have an Ender 3 but I know some printers only accept certain types of sd cards. Not SDHC etc.. Also you may have to select the reprap gcode in machine settings.
  20. I would use SD card. Easier to print old files and more reliable then a computer connected while its printing
  21. If you put a SD card in your computer CURA should auto say "save to removable drive" Or you can connect via usb
  22. this can also happen if the nozzle is too close to the bed. If its only in that one spot though I would make sure its properly cleaned. Make sure you printing on the correct side of the glass (side with hot warning sticker) and the appropriate adhesion method is evenly applied.
  23. You could use chloroform vapour to slightly melt the outer layer. I just went to my chemist and they gave me a bottle. Suspend the part in a container, put some chloroform in the bottom and put on the printers heat bed. A mist will form and polish the outer surfaces of you print which should seal it off.
  24. This would be very difficult to do. You would have to be able to hold the part firmly on the bed in the exact location where it should print, completely flat and have the height of the part exactly set at the correct height in cura. Can you not just glue the parts together? Off my memory you can go into curas preferences under general and there is a tick box for keep part on build plate.
  25. It will depend on the top thickness set in cura if you will get pockets or not. But you can check this in layer view by sliding the bar on the right side and looking at the point of where you will delete the gcode lines to make sure that layer is complete. But normally I find a quick edit to a design or swapping out nozzles to a smaller one faster then editing gcode.
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