tinydancer
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Posts posted by tinydancer
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I like to use the procedure described in post #5 since illuminarti schooled me on it.
http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/8330-best-procedure-for-leveling-the-bed/
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Post #20 in this thread shows you a picture of the exact assembly.
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Depending on the hours you have on them, the teflon spacer is likely the culprit. Especially if you're printing PLA constantly at 240. Personally I have yet to go above 210 except when I did the extrusion test at 230. Take the spacer out and see what it looks like.
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+1
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Very disappointed about duel extrusion as that was one of the reasons I bought the UM2 a few months ago. The warranty while nice was always a joke anyway. 3 months on a $3k machine? 1 year is what it always should have been from the get go. Especially when someone can waste weeks just trying to get a response from support.
At least they woke up to providing spare parts with new printers.
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Wow, it certainly has a high price point, I wonder if the benefits of a Carbon Fiber system really make that much of a difference?
Maybe if you were producing lower limb prosthetics, but I can't think of a lot of applications for the average person printing. I guess an engineering department might benefit from it.
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I printed yours Cleven, that's a wonderful design. And since it can tighten and unloosen, it's better than NASA's wrench. I actually tested it the other day by taking off the terminals on my car battery and it worked great.
Kudos sir!
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Hey gr5, do you have to turn the UM2 off before you can do that manual filament change?
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I had the same underextrusion issue and replacing the teflon coupler did the trick. Mine didn't look as bad as yours but I couldn't salvage it anyway as it was stuck and I pulled it out with pliers and it completely deformed the shape.
Btw, I do my PLA atomic pulls at 210 and I've never had a problem.
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Loose filament tends to have a greater curvature which helps. I now use loose filament by choice with this holder:
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/loose-filament-holder-v3
That's a great design, I'm now going to use it for what I now dub "The Relaxer" for the last of my rolls that might give me issues. Printed nice and went together easily. Cheers!
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You won't regret it, it's a great printer.
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I would verify if there won't be any VAT charges. And you're going to have to wait a lot longer by going that route.
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I had that problem with the last quarter of a spool. It seems most people use one of the alternate feeders to resolve it, or you can do what I did and just wrap it around another spool that has at least half left on it, leave it for a few days to relax the tension then you should be able to print to the end.
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Thanks for the info. TinyDancer. I think I will go that way. Did you have any setup problems? If so, who did you get parts from? How was the service?
air2gnd
No, I had it printing about 30 mins out of the box. I had an issue with the temp sensor after about 500 hours of printing, but the North American support got me sorted out pretty fast.
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Various reasons. I want a large build area, and dual direct-drive extruders with choices of nozzles and metal hotends.
There's also the whole issue of parts prices...
Let me know what you end up getting, I'm considering a second printer.
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Try the Atomic method to clean the nozzle, it might just be clogged. Go to post #4 of the thread below.
http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4118-blocked-nozzle/
I actually heat mine to 210 instead of 180, but try that temp to start.
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At 70mm/sec, .15 layer height, 260C nozzle you shouldn't be getting underextrusion. But you are. This means your printer is not "as good as new" but still mostly working. I guess I would recommend you slow things down a bit - maybe 40mm/sec. Or .1mm layers. Also I recommend you put the filament on the floor - this makes a huge difference:
Did you print that spool holder?
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Atomic method a few times should do the trick.
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Having spare printer blocks is a good idea, do you know where I can get the file to print it?
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Never installed it, going to sell the UM2 soon.
Why are you selling the precious UM2? *Insert gollum pic*
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Hi Tiny Dancer.
What was the total cost to import from Dynamism?
Thanks
air2gnd
The shipping was $180 if I remember correctly and I believe the duty charges were around $350. The exchange rate is different today but I originally used this to calculate it.
http://www.canadacustomer.fedex.com/ca_english/customsguide/calculatedutytax.html
I think all told it came to about $3100 Canadian, but don't quote me on that.
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Printed out your clips as I want to start printing nylon for a project I have planned. Thanks dude!
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Here is the assembly manual for reference.
https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/um2%20assembly%20manual%20V1.1%20_english.pdf
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The first place to start is to see if it will heat up at all. You can manually do that by going into Maintenance>Advanced and select the the nozzle and dial it up to 200. It will show you right away if it is heating up. If the temperature doesn't change then the next step is to see if the heater is properly seated in the block so you'll have to take apart the head. It's possible the heater element slipped out of the heater block when you were putting it back together. The heater is the large one and the temperature sensor is the smaller one.
Report back and we'll go from there. The next step will be to see if the heater is still plugged into the circuit board.
Is this teflon coupler gone?
in UltiMaker 3D printers
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Glad it's working for you again PD. Seems like results will vary, I got around 500 on mine before it needed replacement.
The vase looks great!