tinydancer
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Posts posted by tinydancer
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With large parts you should probably try using the glue that comes with the printer. You should also try using a brim if you can fit it on the build plate considering you're close to the max build size.
What material are you printing with?
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Paper towel is all you really need.
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Since you're in the US, personally I would cancel my orders and order your Ultimaker 2 from Dynamism. They get stock every week as the printers are assembled in the US.
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Grab the over hang test from make: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:533472/#files
Run the test and post up the results, we should be able to tell you what to tune after seeing those results
After I change filaments I always run the overhang and bridge test to re tune the printer.
I had no idea there were all those tests, guess I know what I'll be doing in the next week to see what I can tweak.
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I usually use 2 or 3 skirts to makes sure the flow is good (nod to pm_dude) when it comes to default settings. Other than that, it really depends on what I'm printing but I'm still learning what works.
As I expected it was the gcode settings I had loaded from the test as I didn't realize initially that you just needed to put the gcode for the test on the sd card and instead had loaded it into Cura.
If only all problems could be that simple. :wink:
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I would agree with you if it didn't do the same thing before I releveled the bed and parts were printing well before this. I'll do it again, but I doubt that's it.
Edit: I think I might have found the culprit. I did the 10mm3/s extruder test the other day and only changed the parameters for this print in the basic settings. In order to get back to the factory profile, I assume I just go to Reset Profile to Default in Cura?
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I use the glue because without it the particular part I'm printing pops off the bed at least half the time if I don't. The strange thing is that I printed off a whole bunch of parts over the last couple of days so I doubt it's the bed level. And that's actually PLA you're seeing as it is laying down an incredibly thin bead.
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Haven't seen this one yet. PLA comes out very smooth but then doesn't actually lay down any plastic. I leveled the bed again, but the same problem persists. I'm starting to think I should just bite the bullet and install Robert's feeder.
Video:
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nice work Tiny
Thanks Skint. It was interesting test for me as I've never seen my UM2 run that fast before.
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Strange, as my blue sharpie is permanent on ColorFabb PLA.
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Welcome to the forum!
I would get the hot end pack and an extra PTFE coupler for sure. If it's difficult to get good quality filament where you live then by all means order some of that as well. In regards to the additional sensor, that seems to be hit and miss when people change out the nozzle. Some people are able to remove it from the block, others like me had to have them send me a new one as it never came free no matter what I tried.
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^^Thanks Tottenham.
Well I got to 7, but as you can see it started to underextrude by the 8mm/s mark.
Edit: Just noticed the original post said 230c. Will try again.
Yup, that did the trick.
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I would like to try this test but I'm not sure how to load the file as when I load profile from gcode using the file in the original post, it loads the settings but there is no model in Cura to print.
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I use a service like imgur to post pics here.
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A few details that would help troubleshoot the issue. What material are you using, the temperature of both the nozzle and bed and the layer height you're printing with?
In regards to bed leveling, refer to the topic below, specifically Illuminarti's post for the correct procedure to get a level bed.
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Nope - I haven't touched it since early 2014, when the newer fibreglas-filled version was made available.
I'll take a look at it again when I install the Flex3drive in a couple of weeks, but it's been printing fine.
Good to know. My PTFE showed a lot of wear after 500+ hours, and that was just printing PLA/PHA from Colorfabb.
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Hi Lance,
Here is my version:
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-plexi-holder
Its using a 11" X 12" sheet. 3mm thick
Just wondering dude, but did you put the door on for more stable temps when printing with ABS?
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What layer height are you using?
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So what is the alternate feeder of choice these days? In the mean time I wrapped it around another 1/2 roll and will store it for a few days to relax the tension on it. Hopefully that will do the trick until I get another feeder installed.
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I have a couple of rolls of filament that seem to be creating friction in the bowden because it's the last 1/4-1/3 of the roll and since it's very tightly wound it's seems to be giving me underextrusion issues. I have no problems printing with reels that are closer to full. Was wondering what people do to relax the filament. Was thinking of maybe wrapping it around another reel that had filament on it, but figured this isn't something new so I thought I would just ask.
I know, I ask A LOT of questions. :-)
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I don't understand why people keep griping that the plastic collet overheats and degrades, but no-one seems to do have done anything about it, aside from costly replacement.
Look at this thread - it works!
http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6084-um2-bowden-block-cooling-improvement/
I've got over 2000 hours printing mostly ABS, and the collet has not gone downhill at all, because I took 15 minutes to improve the cooling of it. If you use all of the always-on-fan output, instead letting half of it be wasted, the collet lasts apparently forever, and since there is no dual-extruder option for a UM2, nothing is lost.
Have you had to do anything to the PTFE coupler like drilling it out occasionally? I might have to give this a try.
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Great advice all around, thanks for the tips.
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Looking into cleaning up the old nozzle so I'll be able to use it again in the future. It's full of PLA and I was wondering what's the best way to clean it? Blowtorch? Boiling it in water? Acetone? Witchcraft?
Thanks!
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I advise anyone ordering in North America to go through Dynamism. They get new stock in every week.
Lifting Edges of Large Print on UM2
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
An easy trick to get big parts off the glass is to let the glass cool down, remove it from the build chamber and let it come to room temperature. Once it reaches room temperature, put it in the fridge for 20 minutes. Because the glass and plastic cool down at different rates, you will easily be able to remove it from the glass.
In regards to Brims, it basically just increases the surface area of your print, and if the print lifts, it will likely just lift the brim. Once the part is done the brim should be pretty easy to remove. You can turn it on by going to the Basic tab in Cura, and then choose it at the bottom where it says "Platform Adhesion Type". And you can adjust the amount of lines on the Brim by going to Expert>Open Expert Settings and you'll see it in the right column. I would just leave it as the default for now and give that a try.