tinydancer
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3D Prints
Posts posted by tinydancer
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You never tried Diamond Age PLA in this case...
Way too expensive to buy from Canada.
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And using thinner layers for small prints can actually produce worse quality sometimes. It's a bit counter intuitive but that's the way it is.
This. I've literally arrived at this after multiple prints in layers below 100 microns on one recent print (the "linkage" on the Oblivion Defender Drone) to only find out that 100+ microns worked the best.
I chock it up to the "art of printing" lol.
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I'm glad you posted this. I've honestly been shaking my head on how Ultimaker doesn't easily host images. Unfortunately I've used imgur a bunch already, but I'll use this method in the future.
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Yeah, disassembly is easy, I got that part. Reassembly is what I'm looking for. Specifically the tolerances between the ring holding the heater block and the block itself. Mind you, it's working great right now ... but that doesn't necessarily mean it's done correctly.
I think this is what you're looking for. Check post #20 for the correct nozzle assembly.
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Personally I wouldn't buy anything other than ColorFabb for PLA.
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Is the Taulman Bridge the same as the 645?
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The problem with using food safe materials is that unless the surface is absolutely smooth, any gaps in the layering can physically harbor bacteria. That being said, ColorFabb's XT-COPOLYESTER seems to be food safe.
http://colorfabb.com/xt-copolyester
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I just measured my UM2 and it comes out at 49.5mm.
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If you click the Product Detail for the size you want, they show a hole profile. The insert has a slight flange at the outer end, so the hole is not completely critical.
You use their (Weller) soldering pencil with an adapter-tip that fits in the insert and holds it while heating, heat up the insert, and push it into the hole with the soldering pencil, where it melts and slides into place. I leave a half-mm sticking out, then immediately push the insert flush with the plastic onto a flat metal surface, and when it cools in a minute or a few, it's done.
It's very solid - the fencers use both hands to screw the plastic pommel hard down onto the tang of the blade, and I haven't heard of one breaking yet.
That's genius!
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Check this printer out. Carbon Fiber and Kevlar filament and a supposed 10 micron accuracy.
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Interesting, I will give that a try.
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Hi pm_dude. Has any one in the Toronto area ordered a um2 from this company? If so, what was the cost (including shipping, duty and hst). Iam looking to buy in early Feb.
Thanks
air2gnd
I'm from Ottawa and got my UM2 from Dynamism in October of last year. The experience was superb and I highly recommend them if you're in North America.
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What is the advantage of these shrouds?
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If you're still considering a UM2 Orion, contact Dynamism. They usually get stock in every week and I literally had my UM2 delivered to me in Canada 3 days after the order went through.
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You are not alone, Everyone who orders Ultimaker parts winds up greatly annoyed with the company, either because they don't offer the parts or are out of stock, because they insist on using the highest-cost shipping, or because they never get around to actually shipping in a reasonable amount of time.
Ultimaker simply does a lousy job at after-sales parts support - one of the worst in the industry.
Absolutely agree with all that.
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I can only guess that adding oil into the equation will cause all kinds of issues with the filament. There should be no reason to oil filament if you're using a good manufacturer.
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I'm just telling you what works if a print won't come off the plate. You mentioned ruining your parts when my suggestion will prevent that.
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Let your bed cool to room temperature, then take it out and put it in the fridge for 20 minutes. The part will come off easily after that as the glass and plastic cool at different rates.
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I would start by lowering the temperature. Start with 200, then 195, then 190.
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Man I love the sound of bagpipes. I'm surprised you could print them and have them sound so good. Kudos!
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@BaasB - Really nice work! Love the airbrushing. What kind of airbrush system do you have? I've been tossing around the idea of getting one since I saw Valcrow's awesome video on the lightsaber and am wondering what brand you have.
@Skint - That turned out great, while I'm curious to see what it would look like polished, the colour right now lends itself very well to the skull. Nice job!
In regards to the coiled filament, wrap it tightly around another roll with at least half the filament left on it and let it sit for at least 3 days. That did the trick with a roll I recently had the exact same problem with and I was able to print right to the end of it. And I only have the stock feeder.
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I think you would have to contact them directly to do that.
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I remember when I first researched the 5th Gen Makerbot and it's "Smart" extruder. Oh the horror stories!
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Something that represents Israel that he might not be able to get in Ireland. I gave maple syrup to some colleagues visiting from the Phillipines, it was a pretty big hit. I also introduced them to Poutine.
A few tips on designing for 3D printing
in Design for Additive Manufacturing
Posted
Another great guide. Bookmarked!