tinydancer
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Posts posted by tinydancer
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That was my problem Valcrow, as I have around the same amount of hours that you have. The PTFE was pretty worn when I removed it and the nozzle has some buildup inside that never came clean even after at least a dozen atomic pulls. Replaced PTFE and nozzle and it's now running so far like it did when I took it out of the box. And I've only used it for PLA.
Personally I think the printer should come with a couple of replacement PTFE couplers and an extra nozzle. Especially when you can only go through the Netherlands for replacement parts at this time.
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This was a very helpful post, thanks! Followed the steps, cleaned my UM2, and now it works flawlessly.
Is there a trick to removing the heater, however? It's the only part I couldn't remove.
Thanks.
As gr5 mentioned, you have to get that set screw out as it holds the heater and sensor in place. I had to heat the head up to around 200 and then used needle nose pliers to grip the metal part of the heater. I ended up cooling it and heating it up several times before it came loose.
As a side note, I would never feel comfortable leaving a print unattended for more than a few hours.
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Here's a link to what makes up the hot end on the UM2.
https://shop.ultimaker.com/product/61/Hot-end-pack
Basically only the PTFE coupler is the only non-metal component.
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To add to the above, depending how often you plan on running it I would suggest getting a spare PTFE coupler at the very least or even the hot end pack to have around for spare parts. You won't need them right away, but if you start doing a lot of ABS or Nylon, you'll wear the PTFE coupler out faster. Even just PLA in the long run will eventually degrade it.
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Awesome! Have a happy new year
Thanks, you too!
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That worked well pm_dude and my printer is back in business!
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Yes there are a few cables not connected in there.
When I changed the heater I taped the wire of the new one to the tip of the old one and pulled toward the board. It worked for 95% of the travel in the shroud.
Great idea, thanks for the tip!
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The replacement temperature arrived in the mail tonight and I'm in the process of installing the new one and when I took off the panel I noticed there is a random plug that isn't plugged into anything. Is that something I should be concerned about?
Any tips for feeding the temperature sensor and wire back through the shroud? I'm guessing I just pull out the old one then gently push/feed the new one back through?
Thanks! Can't wait to get this puppy going again. And Happy New Year to you all!
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It may not be possible to get the temp sensor out of the block; sometimes the crimping of the strain relief is loose enough that the metal binds in the hole opening. And there is a very good chance that you'll pull the wires out trying to remove them - in which case the only thing to do is to replace the sensor as well.
Regarding the isolator nut and nozzle; I'd recommend caution when trying to assemble it; you don't want to damage the threads on either part, and the isolator nut especially is quite weak mechanically, as it has thin walls. I suggest that you take a look at the nozzle threads, and see if you see any damage. Sometimes the lead in of the thread at the top of the cylinder can be a bit poorly formed; you may be able to chase the thread cleaner with a small file or, if you have one, an M6 thread die.
When you put it back together, it should look like this:
I'll reply to the ticket you opened, and make sure you get the parts you need ASAP.
I replied to your email Simon, thanks again for handling this so quickly.
Appreciate the reference picture, that definitely helps. I did slightly file the leading thread and then it turned smoothly by hand all the way down.
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I've submitted a ticket at this point as I have no idea what else to try short of taking a dremel tool to the block.
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I think patience is a solution... wait for the bed to cool more.. or even put your glass plate in de fridge... dont put a lot of force on the printed part..
The fridge works amazingly. I've had prints that wouldn't budge and 20 mins in the fridge allowed them to be taken off with barely any effort.
As far as getting a new bed, I would go to a glass supply store instead of getting one from Ultimaker.
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I did take the set screw out, I'm guessing someone must have reefed on it when it was assembled. After a lot of screwing around and heating and cooling I managed to get the heater plug out, but I still can't get the sensor one out. If it just had the metal clamp on the end like the heater then I could at least grab it with pliers like I did the heater, but the wire is flush with the block.
I even tried to get a paper clip in the set screw hole to try and push it from the other side but no go. I guess I'll just keep trying.
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The problem I'm having right now is removing the wires from the block, they won't budge at all. Tried heating up the nozzle to 120c but that didn't work either. Any suggestions? I know what you mean about them being delicate.
Edit: Tried heating to 220c and various temperatures in between. Not very impressed with the design as you don't really have any way of clamping onto anything without possibly bending it and breaking the wire. And the only alternative is to pull on it, which seems like a good way of pulling the wire right out of the sensor ends. Beyond frustrated at this point.
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Not sure where you live, but if it's in North America I would advise going through dynamism instead. They usually can ship them within a week of order and their customer service was great.
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I'm replacing the whole kit and kaboodle as I got the replacement hot end pack. Going to tackle it tomorrow so I'll let you know how it goes. As always, thanks for the help!
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@pm_dude - Sorry I missed your post, I decided to just go ahead and order some parts as I've been printing a lot and figured at least the PTFE couple
So I got my replacement parts and started dry fitting the head together to make sure everything was good before I remove the old one. Unfortunately I can only get the hot end isolater to screw down by hand as far as you see it in the picture. Even the old one will only screw down as far as the new one. Is this normal and I just need to continue tightening it down? I'm afraid of stripping the threads and I really need to get this baby back in service.
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Mine is shipping as well, thanks Sander!
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This is really sad, I have a bad feeling about this.! All my Christmas bonus plus savings are in this printer.! :sad:
On the bright side, the printer itself is great and really produces some excellent prints.
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When I logged into my account today, my Order #R280025300 has also disappeared from the system.
Not very encouraging to say the least.
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Same here, still waiting for my order from December 4th to ship. Order #R280025300
Really not impressed at this point.
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Well, keeping the spool stored tightly wound should reduce the chance of it happening. If it was me then another thing I might consider is cutting off exactly the right amount of filament needed, and either let it hang, or wind it on one of the large diam spools that people use.
I've also wondered if it wouldn't feasible to wind some filament around a larger diameter spool or drum, then put it in a low oven for a while to "relax" it, i.e. reduce the excessive springiness you get when reaching the end of a normal diam spool.
If you are going to cut it, make sure to add the length of the bowden tube since it will still need to be fed by the feeder.
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Well I'm at a loss what to try next. I've tried multiple Colorfabb colors, have done the atomic method a bunch of times before loading the filament. It starts coming out fine, begins laying down the bottom layer and then just outright stops laying down filament or not enough of it. I'm guessing it's either getting friction in the bowden tube or something with the PTFE coupler.
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I am not aware of any shipping delays for the heated bed, so it should be shipped out soon.
The lead time delays were for printers in general, due to some crucial parts missing in our stock.
The heated bed should not be affected.
If you can light a fire under this ticket it would appreciated as I need those replacement parts.
OVO-971-73340
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The problem is my printer was working fine just days ago. Here's the hand I printed off last week. I printed the fingers at 0.06mm at 30mm/s, the palm and gauntlet at 0.1mm at 60mm/s and 50mm/s respectively and small parts at 0.06 at 25mm/s
Warhammer 40k leman russ destroyer
in What have you made
Posted
That turned out amazing! Well done!