bigmouse

Well after a wait of over a week of no forum, I've spent a good hour on this new site, and have to say, this has to be the best example of the worse forum programming I've seen since the start of the www! Too many things wrong, awkward, non-intuitive, navigational nightmare, ugly, to even list! Will only come back in the future to get firmware updates.

I've had a few snaps with the coil on the floor! As you say, really annoying, especially on a long print! Just in case this happens again, If you see the break (you hear it snap) is there a successful way to save the print, like pausing and loading new filament?

Update: Everything working again! Good nozzle clean out and pass a decent amount of filament done the trick! Pause at height working fine now!

Thanks very much for the comments! Tommy, I think I will go with your suggestion! I tried last night, a couple of tests, where the nozzle had reached pause-at-height position and parked. Oozing but no problem but when resuming printing, the extrusion went ballistic, then wouldn't extrude at all! Temp was 197c (small test part). Rebooted the UM2 a few times, unblocked the nozzle (it wasn't really blocked but went through the motions) Even extracted the filament, cut and started fresh, still no good, no extrusion. Will have another look later today!

Duh, The X for delete was hidden! Ok now how to pause at layer number instead of height! Anyone?

Need to insert some nuts into a print. This is the first time for using plug-ins! Thought it would be simple like pause at height, but there is no pause at layer number only height in mm, Is that right? How would you do it? Secondly Tweak at z isn't really suitable for this, now after playing around, I have several plug-ins duplicated and can' find a way to remove them, any help? Thanks,

I rarely print faster than 40mm/sec Only go faster to print a pattern or something where finish is immaterial. Someone said on here, print slow, print cool, and its good advice! For PLA I usually run from 190 to 210c depending on cross section, and no violent jumps between printing speeds for shell and infill. Bottom layer speed try 20mm/sec, I even use 15mm/sec at times on smaller intricate parts

Thanks Bez, I can get that in the UK! Just ordered some! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ambroid-Pro-Weld-2oz-Blister-/111303260649?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item19ea30f9e9

I've since used Gorilla glue, just a small smear on both surfaces, add a hint of water and lightly clamp together, while it is not welding, I found the joint to be very strong!

Can't help! sounds weird, maybe it is not PLA, (some packaging mistake) certainly doesn't sound like PLA! I have some colorFab pla and it prints just like any other PLA, try the PLA test, ie see how it burns compared to ABS

Did anyone ever come up with a real solution for this? I've used superglue on (ultimaker) PLA and its just rubbish! Tried zap a gap and thin, just no strength to it!

Using my UM2 any small holes print smaller than designed, and the percentage increases with the smaller the holes, at about 1mm the holes disappear but leave a dimple where the hole should be! Anything small, like for instance, small diameter spacers, need to keep the temps low, pla I use 190~195 else you end up with a bunch of toffee! I have to side with IRobertI on this one, trying to print any object that small, with any detail will lead to frustration!

I didn't say it can't be done! it depends on what precision of finish you are seeking! For me it isn't a contest of how complicated you can make a part in one printing session! Bridging hollows leave non precision surfaces! For prototyping, I am happier with printing these areas slightly over/under size and post machining to wanted tolerance, but guess that everyone has different aims with these machines regardless of make and model.

Getting someone else to print something isn't a very good way of evaluating the performance of any particular printer! By supplying someone with, or downloading a file, leaves the printer operator very limited on how he can position/print for the best results! For instance, your part has large hollows where the finish is going to be poor, to not too good!, If you were printing this yourself, you could for example, print it in two parts and glue together afterwards, which would make a very clean part. plus many other tricks

Yea, unfortunately the reason is usually money1