tinkergnome
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Posts posted by tinkergnome
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is there something I could do to fix this or just wait on another update?
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The material change wizard makes an "end of print" retraction of 20mm.
The default for the plugin is 5mm... this is a huge difference...
So - what happens...? The plugin retracts 5mm and pauses the print. The material change wizards retracts 20mm at the end of the change process. After resuming the plugin (respectively the gcode) reverts it's retract of 5mm... (needless to say: it has no clue about the other retract value).
The solution: change the retraction amount for the plugin to 20mm and it's fine again...(after reslicing of course...)
To tweak it a bit further: i noticed still some oozing during the pause and got better results with even 21mm.
BTW: if one uses the pause function of the firmware: it makes an additional retract with the amount of the "normal" retract setting (the same as during a print) - but this is another story....
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That is interesting. Could you elaborate on the cylinders ?
These extrusion patterns look pretty similar to me. Perhaps the visible "under-extrusion marks" even are on similar z-heights...?
That's why i had the idea with the z-screw...
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Even that machine with a good idea is suffering from ooze ( you can see some orange filament on the white part in the video) and it's nearly double the price of the um2 (and i wouldn t be satisfied with the print quality shown in the video)
Yep, but... - take this idea, combine it with the speed and accuracy an Ultimaker stands for...halve the price... and deliver it just before next christmas...
I'm curious...
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Also, shouldn't i run into problems with the cylinders if the nozzle was clogged ?
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It appears to me that the test cylinders are also far from perfect...
...but the reason is not necessarily a clogged nozzle.
I would check the attachment of the bowden tube - is all tight (especially during retractions)?
Next: potentially an issue with the z-screw...?. Is it clean, well lubricated and moves smoothly?
Important: use only the included grease or something similar for the z-screw.
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Material flow 120-140%
keep it flowing, turn off retraction. 210C/60 works well. 230 darkens it!
Standard nozzle will be clogged with woodfill. Fine may work, anyone tried?
Custom Block and 080 nozzle works super. Layers are not well visible with
wood fill. It is a gratifying material with a nice "odeur"..!
Woodfill fine works with the standard nozzle... more often than not...
"keep it flowing" is the key - indeed.
Any news about the progress of the next batch of custom blocks...? (i'm still curious...impatiently - i know...)
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Thank you, but..
What is this? A custom firmware? Is there a changelog compared to original?
Not in-depth..
We're still looking for someone who wants to write the documentation - you are interested...?
Readme from GitHub:
Changelist for this fork:- [*]new branch geek_mode
[*](re-)activated PID-controlling for the printbed temperature[*]added new menu option: Maintenance -> Advanced -> Expert settings (activate the "Geek mode" there)[*]in "Geek mode" the build-plate wizard is moved into the maintenance menu, the "Advanced" step is skipped[*]Redesigned printing screen displaying the Z stage and some tuning parameters[*]"instant tuning" - select a parameter and change the target value directly on the printing screenFor more information follow the appropriate discussion on theHave fun!
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The heater sticks out of the block on my UM2 by several millimeters. It just won't go in any further but the temp sensor is all the way in. Both seem to want to slide right out as well when the machine runs - there is no real friction holding them in. Any suggestions on how to get them to stay in the block - some kind of adhesive maybe ? Is it standard for the heater to stick out of the block a little bit ? I have a new hot end that i just received and if I test fit the heater into this block it still doesn't go in completely. There is metal sticking out and the heater does not appear to be warped or swollen in any way. Suggestions ?
First, you could take a look into the assembly manual (from page 49).
You can take the photos and the instructions as a reference.
Or perhaps post your own photos here for comparison...?
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I have a stock machine. Does that mean I really have a 'heater error' of some kind? It would be a shame not to be able to take advantage of newer features. I was running default profile slicing values when this happened with no modification to the PLA profile on the machine. My fans are quite robust and loud when they run.
If you've got this... - check the explanation here.
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Interesting idea!
Do you plan a batch production?
If you need testers... feel free to ask me...
Alternativly: are you willing to sell some prototypes..?
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The procedure was slice the model and at the point where I wanted to edit it take note of the line save the code and edit it and put M0 in that line. Sounds ok but im confused, they also said dont move the head but I need to move the head to get to the print.
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The g code is not numbered as in my "MIL Software Codes G Code" so finding line 652 is not a problem bt finding line 652 without numbers is. (any thoughts)
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I don't know Simplify3D, but i think you will need a few more lines around the "M0" command.
Just a suggestion: you could slice the model with Cura and use the "PauseAtZ" plugin. Then take a look at the generated gcode to get an idea...
AFAIK it makes a retract, moves the head out of the way and then pauses the print with M0. After resuming it moves the head back to the former position, reverts the retract and continues the print (it's not rocket science...).
Of course the print head can be moved - you just have to avoid to do this "by hand"... ... but this would be pretty unlikely, because the steppers keep enabled during the pause - so don't worry!
To find the correct position in the gcode file just search for the appropriate z-coordinate. Why do you need line numbers...?
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So what changed in the 15.01 "a" version?
You're right, the "a" isn't documented yet...
(this is a characteristic trait for developers... documentation is annoying... - i trusted that no one will notice...
)There was a small bug related to the "Abort" function. There was no way back to the main menu after aborting a print.
This is fixed with the "a".
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For example if I want to piece together two objects and have each one as a different colour, it seems rather difficult to do in cura.
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There are some helpful explanations in this thread.
It's pretty easy...but you will need some sort of a cad program anyway (to create the model), or do i miss something?
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You are awesome :smile: You know that right?
Oh no, i didn't want to scare you... (are you always online...?)
I just had opened the related file already... :grin:
...but... wait a minute - this is a praise in any case, isn't it?
...first, i want to forward this to my wife... :cool:
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Bringt auch nix.
Ja, irgendwas passt immer noch nich...
Ich habs mir grad nochmal in Cura 14.12.1 und 15.01 angesehen - sieht anders aus, als bei Dir...
. Unten stehen die relevanten Einstellungen, die ich verwendet habe.Wenn es gar nicht hinzubekommen ist, kannst Du mir gerne eine email-Adresse per PN schicken, dann schicke ich Dir mal testweise das komplette Cura-Profil, das ich verwendet habe, oder gleich die gcode-Dateien...
layer_height = 0.08
wall_thickness = 1.2
retraction_enable = True
solid_layer_thickness = 1.2
fill_density = 20
nozzle_size = 0.4
print_speed = 40
print_temperature = 220
print_bed_temperature = 70
support = None
platform_adhesion = Brim
filament_diameter = 2.85
bottom_thickness = 0.0
layer0_width_factor = 100
object_sink = 0.0
overlap_dual = 0.15
travel_speed = 150
bottom_layer_speed = 20
infill_speed = 0.0
inset0_speed = 0.0
insetx_speed = 0.0
cool_min_layer_time = 8
fan_enabled = True
skirt_line_count = 1
skirt_gap = 3.0
skirt_minimal_length = 150.0
fan_full_height = 4
fan_speed = 100
fan_speed_max = 100
cool_min_feedrate = 10
cool_head_lift = False
solid_top = True
solid_bottom = True
fill_overlap = 15
spiralize = False
simple_mode = False
brim_line_count = 10
fix_horrible_union_all_type_a = False
fix_horrible_union_all_type_b = False
fix_horrible_use_open_bits = False
fix_horrible_extensive_stitching = False
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I'll go into more detail on what we did next wednesday.
:?:
Have i missed this...?
Or is there still something...
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Cura zeigt mir zwar das inbuild support material bei dem Arm an, aber in der layer view erscheint es nicht und wird auch nicht gedruckt.
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Zur Not kannst Du in Cura ein wenig mit der "Nozzle size" schummeln.
Versuch mal 0.39 (statt 0.4) einzutragen und kontrolliere die layer view.
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In short I have been looking for a good deal on Ultimaker2 in the UK and have found some great deals on them on ebay. But alarm bells are slightly ringing as they are £1300 about £500 cheaper then buying through a recommended reseller.
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Too late... :roll:
"This listing was ended by the seller because there was an error in the listing." -
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Welche Länge nehme ich da?
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Nimm am besten gleich einen von dieser Variante, dann kannst Du direkt eine Schraube mit 16mm Länge verwenden:
"Feeder V6 Yoke And Hub With M16 Spacer"
(M3 in 14mm gibt es nicht "von der Stange" und so viele Unterlegscheiben sehen doof aus...
)_Die_ "richtige" Länge vom Yoke gibt es nicht so direkt - das hängt davon ab, wie "stark" und wie lang die Feder bei deinem Drucker ist (die haben offenbar eine gewisse "Serienstreuung").
Du könntest z.B. mit 38mm anfangen, und später andere Längen "nachdrucken", wenn Dir der Federdruck zu schwach oder zu stark vorkommt (oder Du druckst eben gleich die ganze Serie...).
Wenn ich mich richtig erinnere, sollte die Feder beim Zusammenbauen mit einer 30mm langen M3 Schraube auf ca. 13 mm Länge vorgespannt werden. Der Arm sollte sich dann schließen lassen ohne sich die Finger zu brechen, darf aber auch nicht zu "lasch" eingestellt sein.
Das ist leider zum Teil so eine "Gefühlssache..." - lohnt sich aber
Viel Spaß!
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Hi JayEye,
glad to meet a companion in misfortune...
Can you clarify your intention a bit?
Are you planning to make these modifications solely for your private use, or are you open-minded for
a suggestion i made a couple of weeks ago:
...a (kind of) permanent custom firmware version, maintained by the community is also an option - isn't it?
The challenge is still: to keep in sync with the master branch of Ultimaker.
Before you start - try to get the simulator up and running. It's essential for testing and debugging (IMHO).
I found these sources:
Marlin Simulation... on your desktop?!? (For developers)
Missing note about how to compile and run the simulator
Manually move all axes: I don't want to have to turn the machine off to position the plate and the printhead with may hands. This was possible on the UM1 (I forget whether it was through the ulticontroller or cura), and I want it back.
To disable the steppers enqueing a simple "M84" command is sufficient.
There is also a "Move axis" menu in the recent Tinker version of the firmware - branch: geek_mode.
(i'm not sure, if you noticed this already)
Print at a specific location on the platform: I do not want to wait for the build plate to cool down enough so I can remove what I just printed in order to start a new print. For small parts, there is plenty of room on the build plate. I realize I can bring everything in cura again and reslice, but I may want different models sliced with different parameters, or that take too long to slice, or I may not even have the .stl any more (and working with gcode models in cura is annoying).The axis positions are "hard-coded" in the gcode file. You have to introduce some kind of shift value.
I mediate on something similar for the z-axis. The intention is a new function to recover a (aborted) print.
But perhaps there are better approaches...?
Better control over heat-up/heat-down and filament movement.I want a "heat nozzle and keep at that temperature until I tell you otherwise, regardless of what other operations are happening", so I can control the nozzle and the filament movement during load/unload independently of each other (why? because I want to!)I'm not sure if i got the point...
I made a small improvement (hopefully
) for the "Move material" menu recently. Perhaps you can use it as a starting point:
More information on front panel:I have already found this, so if anything it will be just minor tweaks.There's an open discussion on the other thread. We're curious..
Another source: nerd fork
(there's no activity anymore, but it's a good starting point anyway...)
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The "export a full close vase and print it in Cura without top" option sounded amazingly simple and efficient, however when I tried it with one of the vase, either in Cura 14.12.1 or 15, the result is the same. Actually it's a bit better than when I started from the already hollowed model (so the .stl precision loss and horizontal thickness explanation seems to be accurate), but I still get some "random" infill.
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Just another suggestion...:
You can try to "tweak" the value of shell thickness a bit. For example: set shell thickness to 0.79 in Cura and take a look at the layer view (a suitable value depends on the geometry).
For me - this is sometimes the easier solution.
Just to clarify: the SwapAtZ plugin is also a great improvement!
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So, does anyone here have the air flow details about the original fan? Or should I contact support?
Did you noticed this thread?
3.0 CFM / approx. 5 m^3/h (there is also no source for this information - but perhaps you can ask twistx)
Consider using this one as a replacement: Sunon MC25100V2-A99 (16dBA)
It is 10mm height - but there is enough room - you would need longer screws - but the spec looks suitable...
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That would be ideal, I guess the Gcode which controlled that raising/priming sequence could always be added to the generated prints Gcode by Cura instead of having it in the UM2's firmware.... or am I missing something very fundamental? :smile: (which is very possible!)
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Nothing fundamental.... only a penny:
The "firmware priming" (and heatup - using UltiGcode) uses the target temperatures of the current material preset. IMHO this is the major (respectively the only...) benefit of UltiGcode - one can print the same gcode file with different materials. This is very convenient (in my opinion) - i frequently switch between PLA and XT for example.
With those start code generated into the gcode - you would have to reslice for every material (or at least: edit the temperature settings in the file)...
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It's not particulary problematic, just unnecessary and I'm wondering what's the cause of it?
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The root for this "might" also be in the firmware.
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Yep. It is...
After selecting the file from sd-card the buildplate is raised up to the priming height (20mm) before it even starts reading the gcode.
This behavior is not related to the GCode-flavor - although priming takes place only for UltiGCode.
The fact that this will not happen directly after turning on - is more or less "by accident"...
The firmware has just no clue about the current position of the z-axis before the first "homing"... and runs into the "soft-endstop control".
Conclusion: i think this has to be fixed in the firmware.
More information during print
in Firmware
Posted
You're right, but AFAIK this is intentional, isn't it? The pause function never had a security question.
It's just the same behavior as in the stock version. I guess you have a suggestion for a change request...?