cloakfiend
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Posts posted by cloakfiend
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Thanks for the info, your video inspired me so much I just went and ordered myself a gopro7 hero black!
I wanna give this a go badly!, been meaning to do time-lapses for a while but was too lazy, now I'm better I'm super motivated, just finishing up a sculpt first though!
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definitely!
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1 hour ago, starbuck said:
All you need to do is install Python 3 (latest) and install ffmpeg for your system. Then run the script on the command line with the IP address of the printer
where do i run the script? where do the frames/video get saved?
p.s. your z screw looks like it could do with a clean!
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Real nice job man! Looks great!
Would love a step by step tut on how to implement this. this was done using the inbuilt camera i assume? Hope its not too technical!
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Ohhh post production nice, i like! i'm also getting my new solution today...and using the spring method prevents tangles because...a spring doesn't tangle! unless you overstretch or squish it around. I have not have one tangle off the roll, as that is the entire point in doing it in the first place!
Im still ill unfortunately, but have areal nice sculpt coming!
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No, youre alright! i imagine that im just very unlucky and like to try to control my luck a bit. Printing high res all the time brings out any issues....speaking of which i tried to plate the bust but for the first time ever i couldng polish it! It wad just sanded eay too much! Who cares though i got a new batch coming in a few hours and 10 litres of gentile distilled water to shake it all up in! Boom. Its gonna be modesty next.
But check your models for inconsistent layers @kmanstudios and if they have them then its the spools fault. I think I've seen them on your pictures. Not the baubles! The big white duck thing springs to mind, but i could be wrong and they are caused by something else.
Ive been printing off the roll for over 4 years with perfect results everytime. The only time i havent got perfect results was on the roll. That kinda says it all to me. Also a dirty z screw! But clean that up and slap some green grease back on and bobs your uncle! Perfect layer lines again!
But dont get me wrong I am not trying to talk you out of printing on the roll! Just informing of my solutions to my 'occasional' imperfect layer issues! And my assumed causes. Im no engineer but just hyper observant. And hyperactive!
However if you are bored feel free to do a comparison of surface quality and see the results for yourself!!
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Not sure about the unwinding part. Its not clear enough for me but my jobs nowadays are at least 12hrs. But i personally find unwinding the filament off the roll and just laying it on the holder works just fine as the tension is the same as its like a spring so iys very light and only pulls at the front, the rest just follows. Ive done this with 20m of filament before, and i can easily just splice more filament on the fly anyway so it doesnt matter even if its 200m of filament!
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You know where the quality is at!
Doing a big job just isnt worth the risk on the roll and adds tons of post time messing around trying to sand out a weak layer which takes longer than you'd think to sand out!
For small jobs its fine on the roll but for the filament that isnt wound perfectly, I now wouldnt even risk it.
There must be some kind of device that clamps down on the filament from the start to prevent ANY filament skips. Its the only thing i can think of. The pressure applied needs to be consistent though to keep nice beautiful layers.
I find the the last 10-15 percent of a tightly wound roll to be totally fine on the roll. I find TR colourfabb seems to be wound tighter or simply slips less than others perhaps to the texture of the filament? Eitherway ill probably off the roll it for important jobs anyways....
Smooth/slippery filament I imagine would tangle a lot. Its all down to how its wound and surface tackiness....imo.
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Well just printed a bust for a friend and was naturally disappointing to see large layer lines towards the top as im only used to high quality prints from my Ultimakers. I was printing from the roll (Which i used to never do until i got the S5 As my other um is a um2 with the black feeder), using some dutch orange I had lying around. At first I thought it could be a dirty layer screw because i had a few failures where the support was tangled and messed and possibly fragments might have fallen into the screw. but then i tried the exact same print off the roll, as i used to. And the pictures speak for themselves. So, In my opinion (as I thought before!), no matter the printer, and no matter how great your feeder is, the sheer tension during during a tangle during a print WILL cause layer deviation.
Basically, if like me you want as perfect layer height as you can get guaranteed every time, The ONLY solution is to print off the roll. People keep trying to change my mind on this, but now I know I'm right. Case closed! the improved feeder does has some advantages which ill get to in my next tut?.
I'll let you decide which ones were printed on and off the roll. but its not very difficult to see!
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@SandervG No its the old stuff, but i ramped the current and left it in for 6times longer than usual so its fine. Its not as bad as i thought initually. Its a combination of factors that ensure a quality plate. My unicron was also the iodised water but came out sublime and thick! I actually have a sample of copperfill or bronzefill from the colorfabb visit so ill defo give it a shot when i recover from my mystery illness!
So nice!!!! My favourite so far by a long shot.
Plating solution is 'meant' to last a lifetime yet mine only lasts a week! Lol. Im trying to strech it for as long as possible. Mind you most people usebit to plate small things like rings and small items....I always end up taking things to the next level, Ill push untill i cant push more more.
I dont have the dog anymore, gave it away.
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Ill still post some nice overhang support helpers that are light on material and easy to remove....ish lol. Sorry for the hijack and going off topic!!!! I tend to do it a lot without realising!!!
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Apparently all is good now.......?
Just took the stick out for about 5 mins and put it back in..... quick out and back ins didnt work. I assume its a memory management thing. I must have intterupted something that corrupted the memory after the material change. I think i switched it off.
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Sorry man, im really ill and im not thinking straight and probably not doing things right. Im going to sleep now....?
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After pulling the stick out for a while then putting it back....the files mysteriously work again??? A short in and out didnt work.... I guess the files are referenced in memory somewhere that got temporarily corrupted? I dont know whatever...they work now.
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I didnt remove the usb. I simply reloaded the filament as im noticing a lot of uneven layer lines and wanted to reprint the model using my off the roll method to see if its tension on the spool or dirt on the screw. Both my last files somehow became corrupted?
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This is all the information i get. From 5 minutes ago when the file was fine after reloading my filament for an off the roll test due to excessive layer lines testing???? Hmmmm.
I think someone is telling me to go back to bed and worry about this when my brain is functioning better. This is giving me an actual headache now!!
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I dont knows whats going on now maybe my illness has spread to the s5 as i cant even reprint this damn thing???? What? Why are they greyed out? Im just going back to bed ive got too much of a headache now to deal with this!
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....as for support, im veering on giving up on it totally. Just cant trust it amymore. Time to go manual or hope cura gets smarter about it. As the current support methods are completely unreliable as 'support' once they reach a certain height using high resolutions. Ill post my easy manual support fixes once i get out of bed, i've been ill for the past few days. It came out ok-ish but im getting a bit fed up of seeing this on the regular.
....I might just be annoyed as ive been ill for so long and been bedbound. But i still dislike these tall unsupported supports. Its just asking for failure.
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Cockpit anxiety, lol.
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If someone did to my um2 what you did to your um2 at 4.35s into your video, id kick them out of my house! Thats printer abuse right there!
Great video though!
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No problem! and i know a lot of people may disagree here, but i find those overhang and bridging test prints kind of pointless. In reality youll never print that kind of stuff for a client and the shape of an object plays a large part in how it prints so you learn from experience where things go better or worse than expected.
The first test and in my experience the only real test you NEED to do is to kick of a print and to SLOWLY decrease the temps until issues arise, (basically 1 degree at a time).
That will tell you the minimum temp for your particular layer height and speed you are using. Any time you increase speed or alter the layer height, simply repeat this procedure and youll soon find a general ball park of where you can play around in.
But take you time and dont rush the temp drops. Also make sure you are starting with a perfect unblocked nozzle and perfectly functioning machine otherwise things may eventually go into random territory where other factors start playing a part. And from a testing point of view you only want to be adjusting one setting at a time!
....and thouroughly examine your model afterwards for poor layers as sometimes they look deceptively perfect!
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I generally use the same settings for all pla, maybe dropping or raising a few degrees here and there but i mainly use colorfabb pla/pha and use an ultimaker2 and ultimaker s5. Same temps on both machines. I never print pla above 200. But then again I almost exclusively print at 0.06 layer height! Even at 0.1 layer height 200 should be fine at 30mm/s, you might even get away with lower. Internal wall i print at 70mm/s though, having an overall higher temp to balance the speed difference. Large objects may not fair so well doing these vast speed changes though but i have had no real issues so far, just quicker prints.
I print outerwalls slow to avoid ringing as much as i can btw! 20mm/s on the um2 30mm/s on the s5.
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I look forward to our next meet up! we have a lot to talk about. Hopefully it wont be as cold as last time!!
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I can sometimes even go as low as 182degrees with pla but thats pushing it. Quality gets better, but its the balance of printing as low as you can with good layer adhesion is what you are after...experimentation. i now print everything at 200 btw... but i feel ill go lower on my next job...
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A Fisherman's Daughter
in What have you made
Posted · Edited by cloakfiend
Hi, While I was ill tried to sculpt this or have a go at it, and this is what I finished with its not perfect but I couldn't wait to try and print it so it'll be an experiment to paint. I ended up resculpting it 3 or four times as I was referencing two separate sculptures of the same thing and they were slightly different so I just took the parts I thought represented what I wanted to see and just fudged the rest using references of cosplay hoods from capes and stuff to do the back, I'll ammend a few things and print it again, like the hair is way too low res and will need to up the poly count on that quite dramatically, as I can see the actual polygons on the print. I usually don't print so large, and that means a step up in model quality! proper edge loops and Retopo basically, or simply post decimation. I also forgot the ear!! btw Its based on a sculpt by Philippe Faraut called 'The Fisherman's Daughter', She looks a bit older in mine. Original at bottom in grey (clay).
Cant wait to see how this turns out! Should be ready by morning, 24 and a bit hour print. I deliberately sculpted it in a way that it needed minimal support for parts that were simply not necessary. sorry for the dead eyes.