cloakfiend
-
Posts
2,015 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
68
Content Type
Forums
Events
3D Prints
Posts posted by cloakfiend
-
-
I only submerged the tips of my fingers, but i only did this as a friend of mine (a girl) had a massive tub of acetone in a pink bottle labeled nail polish remover that absolutely stunk when she opened it, and it had a sponge in the middle that you were meant to dip your finger nails in, this obviously meant your fingertips would touch the acetone, and assuming you dont do this everyday im pretty sure once everynow and then is ok..
But then again, im the kind of guy who loves to play with mercury in my hand, so small exposures to stuff doesnt bother me. Just dont do it forever, as the effects are additive over time. lol.
-
Here is my follow up vid. Of fibonacci print.
-
I do 40hrs plus prints at 230 no problem but dont like those high temps. I stay well away from abs now. And when you manually push stuff in there is a bit of resistance getting into th head, dont be too rough. Its not that bad.
-
Its from the dudes drop box. No i didnt make it but ill show you all in my next tut. Overdid the acetone on it though. It leaked into the internal structure and made it very rubbery. Still looks a million time better than abs vapour nonsens. M
-
All filament react differently to acetone, i just found from experience. Trying the different pla ones i had that black colorfab pla filament works best for me, the green one didnt do anything and the white one looked like crap to begin with just lumpy to begin with so i didnt even try. I got the idea by dunking the test piece that can with the printer and noticed that after an acetone bath i could barely see any lines and all the details were kept unlike the acetone abs vapour nonsense that destroys all fine detail. My method brings it out. You just need enough acetone to dunk it in. If you wear a mask gloves and do it outside i cant see any safety issues unless youre doing it on a scyscraper balcony and are very clumsy, lol.
Give it a go with a small object if you dont belive me. Just make sure youve tuned the printer to the best of your abilities, and print at 0.06 or higher. Sand or use a scalpel to cut off the dots where the print head left the model, and do a primary dip. After this initial dip you can see the problem areas which usually do not need much touching up and then a quick little dip to make youre sanded fixed areas good again and you have a perfect piece with little post effort. You can always spray it with plastic primer to see the areas either if you dont want to double dip. I reccomend a lond dip followed by a touch of sanding then a quick dip tomake that smoothand youre good. No more lines, much, lol.
-
Just to let you know i think there is a problem with the cura, as when i print the raft in o.1 it is always fine, as soon as i switch to 0.06 its crap. But the model prints fine on the raft. They need to set the raft to permanently be at 0.1 to avoid this retarded issue which just lead to the filament getting worn out from the printer doing its retarded nozzle retraction thing that wears it away to the point of you having to pull it out and start over. This is my only gripe with tthe ultimaker, other than that its easily the best one out here.
I then started printing my models with no raft but they became so stuck i ended up pulling a layer of glass off one i had trouble removing. Never again. You need the raft if you cover a lot of surface area. Its a fake block alot of the time, epecially with the raft. I always let it mess up on the raft as i know the model. will be perfect.
To clean my nozzle i just heat it up to 260 jam in some filament and then ramp the temp to 0 whilst still pushing through the filament till the temp stops melting it. Then i wait till its around 60-70 or even 80 and whip it out gently (you dont want to bend the bars). Generally works everytime and i dont need to do the whole change material nonsense that way. The key is not letting the nozzle safety feature kick in for too long or else it will grind through the plastic leaving you to remove it as it cant pull it through anymore cos its been grinding away. This mechanism needs to be changed it ruins the experience and makes me want to pick up the printer and smash it into pieces everytime i hear that duk duk noise. Claiming to have a blocked nozzle.
Please ultimaker either make the grips larger or more spread apart. Or something as right now it just eats into the filament so much during retraction it cant grip it anymore and needs maintenance. After a few times this gets extremely annoying. Id like a setting that says ignore the nozzle block please and print regardless.
-
Yep, im with you on the safety now, its just im used to doing things quick and easy and usually not wasting time with safety nonsense, but that amount of acetone is a bit crazy. I only used that because i was in a hurry and couldnt find a smaller container to fit the head.
Im doing another tutorial now with the fibonacci object prior to any sanding printed in 27hrs at a quicker 70mms at 230deg just to show how great the resultss are even after one long dip. I used gloves in this one, but next time im doing it outside lol! Cant breath that crap in any more its ok when its a tiny tub, but 2.5 litres gets stinky.
Pla and acetone is the way guys, if you can just find a container small enough to fit the object to reduce the amount of acetone you use.
Next year its gonna be dlp but until then you cant beat pla and acetone results in my opinion. Period. Unless you love filler spray and tons of sanding. However it must be noted that flat thin objects will warp so beware, youll see this in the next vid. Stay safe, peace.
-
TO ALL THE PEOPLE WHO SAY ACETONE DOES NOTHING TO ALL BRANDS OF PLA.....YOU ARE WRONG. LIKE TOTALLY WRONG.
THIS NOW APPLIES TO COLORFABB NON SPECIALITY FILAMENT ONLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (as i have not tried speciality filaments.) If anyone from colorfabb wants to send me some samples id be happy to try them out, ;)lol.
(EDIT: UM BRAND PLA NO LONGER SMOOTHS due to changes in their manufacturing process) Just to let you know. The red one below is Colorfabb BTW and so is the black t-rex beneath that. And that still should work, im getting more new filament soon so ill kee you updated if it also changes. But seeing as they still add pha to it i think it should be fine. UM no longer does and i think that is the reason.
I do need to say this also probably wont work with cheap brands of PLA from what i've heard, due to the lack of dissolvable plastics in the PLA like HIPS/ABS/PHA which seems to be present in the PLA I use which is Colorfabb and Ultimaker Brand (my favourite). Just thought I'd add that note in case it doesn't work for you as we all know that (from a chemical point of view) PLA is not affected by acetone, but to improve the composition and printability of PLA many manufacturers add stuff to it which makes it smoothable (which is great) ! ( just need to say this as some smart arses alway tell me that PLA is traditionally not dissolvable in acetone as we all know by now. ) well i'm just telling you that I found two brands that do smooth, and i'm not bothered about the percentage of PLA in those filaments or the fact that its not 'PURE' PLA which some people seem to find so damn important, but I find the smooth-ability of it far more impotant so save all those other arguments for someone who cares. If its smoother prints you want, then read on......If you only want to use 'PURE' PLA for whatever weird reason you choose other than cost (which is a big factor I admit) then this thread is NOT for you. As from what I've read PLA blends tend to be slightly more expensive that Pure PLA, but they tend to be strionger, print better, and.......smooooth unlike pure PLA. But it IS still PLA so all you blend haters can just carry on hating what i'm lovin'.
Old thread below, go to end for more recent stuff.
****PLEASE NOTE THAT I DO THINGS DIFFERENTLY NOW AND DO NOT POUR 2 LITRES OF ACETONE INTO A VAT. THE ONLY REASON I DID IT HERE WAS THAT I HAD NO OTHER CONTAINERS THAT THE HEAD WOULD FIT INSIDE AND IT WAS THE FIRST ATTEMPT I DID ON A HIGH DETAIL MODEL AND I WAS EXPERIMENTING SO YOU DONT HAVE TO! FOR SMALL MODELS YOU CAN JUST POP SOME ACETONE INTO A MUG OR GLASS, TAKE IT OUTSIDE AND DIP IT THERE, SO YOU OR YOUR HANDS NEVER REALLY COME INTO CONTACT WITH ACETONE, MAKING IT VERY SAFE.****
OK, Guys first post here, and after finding that my abs parts were breaking a lot i switched to black PLA from Colourfab the regular one 2,85 mm. After reading all the abs acetone business i still found the vapour cloud too random and thick at the bottom and thin at the top so gave up after many failed attempts.
PLA However i noticed that if you print at 0.06 (or higher i guess, i didnt go bove 0.06) then the acetone just eats away enough for it to smooth any casual sanding and even most of the printing lines. Here is a quick vid i made sorry for and bad language, its just the way i speak.
Good luck, no need for any other nasty chemicals! unless you're in a hurry, lol.
the big head took 33Hrs to print btw.
-
6
-
Acetone Finishing on PLA
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
Flame thrower, lol, I am a full blown pyromaniac too, so dont temp me, ill probably try and burn a few just to see, but i doubt it will go in all the detailed areas, perhaps a tiny hand flame thrower( which i have of course!) might do the trick, id like to see a vid of the flame thrower method. If there isnt one, ill make one next week. Right now im ill. Probably too much acetone inhalation, lol. No just kidding, i got the flu!