jeex
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Posts posted by jeex
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https://zortrax.com/3d-printing-in-mold-making/zortrax-3D-printing-in-modern-mold-making.pdf
This Z-ULTRAT is filament fit for molding. Can the UM print this stuff?
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It still needs a bit of polish such as moulding to hide the screws but it's basically done. Well, except for one thing that really was the purpose of building this in the first place, a fan and filter. I guess I'll add that later... Took a bit more time and effort than I had hoped but I'm glad it's finally done.
Sorry about the overexposed pics, too tired to take new ones right now
This is what I needed that measurement for, @SandervG
This i like. I'm using one UM2 Non-stop. Not healty i think. I would like to get rid of the noise and smell.
The drawers are very nice. I would add some air extraction as well.
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Price now is 40 Euro. It's worth it. Jeex really is the sharpest boardgame for two.
As soon as i get production time down, price goes down also.
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LOL. I prefer convenient over free ;-)
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I was hoping for a more convenient answer. I already speak 11 programming languages fluently and am not too keen on learning no 12. But, here we go...
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Thanks for the tip. I'll take a look at Simplify 3D as simplifying untill now saved me about 30% of printing time and i think it can still be more efficient.
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i Uses his 0.6 nozzle, bigger is not possible.
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How can i make my UM2 start printing at a hight of say 5mm above the glass plate, but on top of an earlyer printed object?
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Our board game is now in production as customizable product for The Netherlands. (http://jeexgame.com/ontwerp-jouw-eigen-jeex-game/).
That's nice. So now i've got two UM2's printing non stop and i am looking for a faster way to print the game. The designs are speed-optimized, but still it takes about 22 hours to print one game.
Also optimized costs of printing by buying less expensive (but equal quality) filament. I now use http://hestay.nl in stead of Colorfabb. That does however not change the need for speed.
So: any ideas on printing faster?
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@bob-heppie Nice feeder. Will certainly try it.
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@titus I see no difference. Not in results, not in printing. This Hestay dude does not get his filament from one factory. He selects the best stuff from many brands, does numerous tests and selects what he likes most.
Do not forget that 3D-printing is getting more popular every day and raw material for filament is very cheap. So prices are dropping rapidly as new players enter the market. Cheaper in this perspective is not always lower quality.
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I did not print it myself. But in design it is by far the weakest spot of the thing. Very thin.
I now have a broom stick hanging one meter under the ceiling with all my rolls of PLA. I just grab the color I need and pull the wire down.
But still, i'm trying to find a more solid solution for this.
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Nice tip. Found some very nice designs.
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The weakest link in all three designs is the flimsy part that has to carry the weight. There must be a better way.
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Yes, spool holder. Thanks you both. The standard black thing is a bit flimsy. The whole weight hangs on a thin piece of plastic.
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What the f... is the name of that black thing on the back of the UM2 that holds the filement?
Whatever it is, it is broken. The tiny thin thingy it hangs on just snapped.
Is there a better design for the filament-role-holder-thing? Or can i download the current design and improve it?
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Maybe it would be a good idea to call The New Cura an Alpha-version. Lot of things aren't there yet, and lot of things go wrong.
As mentioned earlyer, i'm struggling with multiple objects on the plate. I just printed (or tried to) three objects. The third object was floating.
I do not understand why that part of the old cura has to be redesigned. That really works fine in the old version.
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Both 1.75 and 3 (2.85). Check the site. Really nice colours and good printing quality. No difference, as far as i can see, with the more expensive filaments i used so far. Better than the stuff i got from 123print.
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On my quest for good printing and good looking filament i stumbled upon filament way cheaper than the colorfab i was using now. So, i ordered a party pack with samples and low expectations. Wood (nice dark), nylon and flexible PLA en some colours normal PLA at http://www.hestay.nl/filament/
I must say: beautiful colours, really good printing quality and it saves me about 25% on expenses. Payment, shipping and after sales are also fine. They instantly provided me with the proper print settings for my UM2.
Just had to share this here. It made me happy.
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And placement on the glass in stead of next to it. It works great in the old Cura but is really hopeless now.
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I stumble upon a lot of small but inconvenient bugs. Like placing multiple objects on (and not outside) the plate. Or like multiplying objects. Or like a second monitor, where Cura (the new one) simply does not work.
I made a short video, that's easyer to explain. It's not edited, so there are some black seconds in between the shots.
1) In the first shot i multiply an object. The old cura does that perfectly.
2) In the second shot i try to use the new Cura, but on the second monitor (my Mac Pro 4.1 has three monitors) selecting an object is impossible.
3) In the second shot you see the party in my monitor when starting up the new Cura.
4) In the fourth shot you see attempts to multiply (where did that function go?) and replace the objects ON the glass and not beside it. Simply not possible. Have to do it manually for each object.
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UM has other prio's, like fixing all the bugs in Cura.
This nozzle is not an important issue right now, because Carl (http://3dsolex.com) provides us with all the nozzles we need. So, Carl, keep up the good work.
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After printing with the standard 0.4 nozzle and Carls (http://3dsolex.com/) changeable nozzles (0.4 and 0.6) i must get two things of my chest:
- Why does UM not put the changeable nozzle standard on all UM's? Changing the 3Dsolex nozzle is a piece of cake and different nozzles give different results and advantages. When the nozzle is ruined by bamboo (frustration...) or another experiment, you simply change the nozzle in a minute.
- Nozzle 0.6 really rules. A 0.6 shell is solid enough, so one 0.6 shell layer is enough. With 0.4 nozzle you print a 0.8 shel, so you print the shell twice. With 0.6 that is just once and that saves some filament and loads of time. In normal print work i do not see the difference with 0.4
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- Why does UM not put the changeable nozzle standard on all UM's? Changing the 3Dsolex nozzle is a piece of cake and different nozzles give different results and advantages. When the nozzle is ruined by bamboo (frustration...) or another experiment, you simply change the nozzle in a minute.
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Did it all. Tried it all. I am using the wider 3dsolex nozzles. Used all the settings recommended by Colorfabb.
Even tried a 0.8 nozzle. The stuff burns in the nozzle as soon as the filament does not flow for a moment. So results at best: darker stripes of burned bamboo.
Now if results were impressive, i would continue this experiment. But it looks and feels like cheap carton. The stuff we make out of straw where i live. So in the end, it's not worth it.
Thanks all for the help here. Back to PLA.
Next experiment: flexible filament, nylon.
Start printing halfway Z-axis
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
Lazy me has one more question: where in the gCode do i put these two lines?