Wisar
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Posts posted by Wisar
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Uppbyggnadsläge är på
Hemsida kommer snart
????GOOGLE?????
Build Mode is on
Website coming soon
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Just as the title asks...can I buy one somewhere. It seems like most, if not all, of what I have read about it is by people testing it! If it is not for sale any idea when and for how much?
Thanks,
Wisar
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I wonder, however, if the endstop switch should be mounted a couple of mm's further away from the case so this can't happen as easily?
You can, you have to re-calibrate the switching bay location. The reason why this is not per default is to get the maximum build volume.
I am not sure what you mean by re-calibrate...my problem is a physical geometry issue of the x-axis rod for the carriage is slipping to the right and then not hitting the switch. If the switch were a tiny bit wider or the rod a tiny bit longer it would still trigger. My fix will be to insert a spacer between the switch and the frame to move the contact point in a little. But why is the rod moving so freely to the right and presumably to only thing stopping it is when it hits the far wall? Can't be good?
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I would sign up for an unsupported core....
I completely understand. But that is currently not the view of Ultimaker, as Ultimaker does not want to offer something until it is a finished solution.
I cannot say anything about which cores will come when, as I've seen 3 different timelines already and I'm most likely not allowed to talk about any of them ;-)
Given that I have an UM2+ next to my UM3 this is not something that I am losing too much sleep over! -
Yes, the noise is gone for now and has been printing ever since. (Fantastically may I add).
To help others let me say what I did:
I think the stepper may have slightly skewed and that then skewed the belt, not a lot but enough to create uneven tension. A search reveals lots of people with issues in that area.
There was also a slight buildup of rubber in the grooves which I cleaned out with some ISO and so that may have also contributed to the belts not sitting right.
I also cleaned and oiled the stepper itself, which had an immediate change of feel.
Just to conclude this nicely, here's what it sounds like now: https://goo.gl/photos/Y4aihrqQczxKqg739
One other thought since you mentioned the belt shredding--how many print hours are on the machine? I usually find around 3000 print hours is a good wear and tear time for replacing belts.
I also don't see the blue clip in the printhead. Not sure if I'm just missing it in the shadows, but just wanted to mention it. You may want to go ahead and print some spares if it's missing.
Hey, yeah about 2.4k so I guess may be a good time to replace, but I've got everything pretty quiet now.
I realised about the clips pretty early on, so was one of the first things I printed, the head now has one, the back needed 2 but it works fine.
Only slight noise I have now a tiny slight friction when doing single layer z screw movements. Very much fine tuning now but I'm sure I'll get that resolved with maybe a clean and regrease.
Thanks for the heads-up though. This is my first bowden.
I am 99.5% sure that there was an extra blue clip in the little box...but always good to print a couple! -
Thanks, I had missed the whole Ruby thing but will check them out. I actually love the look of the carbon prints even more than the functionality...going a little faster would not be bad.I totally gave up steel nozzles about a year ago, printing with Anders "The Olsson Ruby" nozzles is "the shit" for carbon and glow filaments, no need to slow down or raise the temperature, and it will not wear out anytime soon :-)
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Using just a different nozzle size is easy but making all work in every combination, controlling drip so the print reliability stays high, that's a totally different game.
I do love the reliability of using the new profiles with the UM3. On the other hand I would love to be able to print some super detailed stuff (or some super fast stuff) on the UM3 even if I had to profile it myself. I guess it is difficult to sell something on one hand that is bullet proof and then also have an offering for a component that is buy but understand it is on you if you have issues? I would sign up for an unsupported core....
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Probably a good idea to keep the filled filaments on the left side (UM2+) and leave the UM3 on the right side to "normal" stuff. I have had pretty good luck with the specialty filaments that I have tried though a lot of care and feeding is required. I have a couple of steel nozzles and the trick is slow, slow, slow. Will have to try the .6mm idea.I would prefer my UM2+ for printing wood filled filament, since i have had a lot of troubles with jams in 0.4mm nozzles, and amazing success with 0.6mm nozzle and wood filled filaments :-)
Cheers,
Will
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As we roll towards the new year is there any news on the addition of different print cores? I have heard the .8 is on deck for early in the year (just gossip) and while I would buy one the .25 is what i really want.
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How do we know if a filament is abrasive? With some it is obvious, like carbon fibre based filaments. Bronze filled against a bronze nozzle makes sense as being abrasive. I assume copperfill would be as well? What about various woodfills? I would think they would be ok though I wonder about the risk of clogging a 100 quid print core when I have a UM2+ sitting next to it!
It would be nice if the sellers would label filaments as abrasive but if they are doing so I think I am missing it?
Thanks for any feedback.
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Printer halted with terrible noises! Told me to contact support 'cause of an endstop failure!
Not a big deal to fix as one of the axis rods had slipped and was no longer triggering the end stop. I wonder, however, if the endstop switch should be mounted a couple of mm's further away from the case so this can't happen as easily?
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You printing with ABS there?
No, I generally don't bother with ABS any more. The enclosure/door is just used when I want to control the temperature and avoid any drafts or sudden temp drops.
I have the same enclosure and the same comment on ABS. I still have a couple of reels of it but they do not get used and at some point will likely go. The enclosure, on the other hand, is helpful in my drafty man cave for more stable build area temps and faster heatups when using higher bed temps.
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Unfortunately for me that printer was a bargain as I am the culprit that sold it with a defect!
When I'm over the honeymoon period of printing lots of things with ridiculous quality I'll probably take down the other side and give that a service too.
I have to do the same maintenance to my other UM2+ as I am sure that it needs it. I suspect there are other UM2's out there that could use the same tuneup as well. It would be interesting to see how it prints the test object that I included...if you have the time you might want to give it a go as the gcode is on the SD card. As soon as I get the time I am going to print the torture test, do the above tuneup, and then print it again. Glad you are enjoying the printer! -
Unfortunately for me that printer was a bargain as I am the culprit that sold it with a defect! Seriously, glad it sounds like it might be on the mend. It was only making the sound described occasionally when I packed it and I think the ordeal of being sold and packed up may have helped move the frame around. Hopefully this is the case! In the meantime I am doing the same adjustment on my remaining Ultimaker 2+.
It will be interesting to hear a) if this did indeed solve the problem and b) if anyone else has the same issue.
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Thanks.....that worked! But it is exactly the same change that I made! I don't get it but am not going to sweat it. Thanks again. Default is now as it should have been in the first place!
Great
BTW, don't know this for sure, but I am assuming that Text Edit on OSX probably introduced some line control when I saved the file. Not sure why I did not just do the edit in terminal. Doop. -
Look for the file fdmprinter.def.json
In that file, the default adhesion type is set to 'brim'. Most of the quality profiles for the UM3 do not contain a value for adhesion type, meaning that the default value in fdmprinter definition is used. (I think that only one nylon profile is set to 'raft').
So if you change that value to 'skirt', in almost all profiles a skirt is applied.
Can I please get more guidance on what exactly needs to change here? I have tried to make the change as suggested and not gotten it to work. I am sure I am just changing the wrong thing but am struggling.
I am going to sound cranky here but why would anyone in their right mind set a default of brim for PLA? PLA sticks just fine! If PVA is being used then brim away...with the PVA! I love the default profiles but having to remember that brim is on every time I switch something is a real pain in the arse! :-)
Thanks in advance for helping me!
Open the fdmprinter.def.json file and look for the section "adhesion_type" and change the line: -
"default_value": "brim",
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"default_value": "skirt",
That's the only change I made to that file and now all the default profiles show skirt as the adhesion type by default.
Hmmmm...I am on OSX and when I make that change to the file that is in
/Applications/Cura.app/Contents/Resources/resources/definitions/fdmprinter.def.json
it seems to corrupt my setup. I get a dialog box asking me to add a printer and my two printers that were there are no longer!
Are you windows or linux?
Thanks,
Will
I'm on a Mac too - I did a fresh install of Cura 2.3.1, found that file inside the app and edited it using Atom.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/176278/fdmprinter.def.json
That's the file I'm using - completely stock from the clean install, but with the default changed to skirt.
Thanks.....that worked! But it is exactly the same change that I made! I don't get it but am not going to sweat it. Thanks again. Default is now as it should have been in the first place! -
Look for the file fdmprinter.def.json
In that file, the default adhesion type is set to 'brim'. Most of the quality profiles for the UM3 do not contain a value for adhesion type, meaning that the default value in fdmprinter definition is used. (I think that only one nylon profile is set to 'raft').
So if you change that value to 'skirt', in almost all profiles a skirt is applied.
Can I please get more guidance on what exactly needs to change here? I have tried to make the change as suggested and not gotten it to work. I am sure I am just changing the wrong thing but am struggling.
I am going to sound cranky here but why would anyone in their right mind set a default of brim for PLA? PLA sticks just fine! If PVA is being used then brim away...with the PVA! I love the default profiles but having to remember that brim is on every time I switch something is a real pain in the arse! :-)
Thanks in advance for helping me!
Open the fdmprinter.def.json file and look for the section "adhesion_type" and change the line: -
"default_value": "brim",
To: -
"default_value": "skirt",
That's the only change I made to that file and now all the default profiles show skirt as the adhesion type by default.
Hmmmm...I am on OSX and when I make that change to the file that is in
/Applications/Cura.app/Contents/Resources/resources/definitions/fdmprinter.def.json
it seems to corrupt my setup. I get a dialog box asking me to add a printer and my two printers that were there are no longer!
Are you windows or linux?
Thanks,
Will
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Look for the file fdmprinter.def.json
In that file, the default adhesion type is set to 'brim'. Most of the quality profiles for the UM3 do not contain a value for adhesion type, meaning that the default value in fdmprinter definition is used. (I think that only one nylon profile is set to 'raft').
So if you change that value to 'skirt', in almost all profiles a skirt is applied.
Can I please get more guidance on what exactly needs to change here? I have tried to make the change as suggested and not gotten it to work. I am sure I am just changing the wrong thing but am struggling.
I am going to sound cranky here but why would anyone in their right mind set a default of brim for PLA? PLA sticks just fine! If PVA is being used then brim away...with the PVA! I love the default profiles but having to remember that brim is on every time I switch something is a real pain in the arse! :-)
Thanks in advance for helping me!
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BTW, this did get me a couple of times and if I am not mistaken you can write a bit of code to see if a resource like a USB port has been allocated to another process before you grab it yourself!
For some systems you can, but it still won't fix the issue if your printer is printing from SD.
Yeh, I am not sure what I was thinking there. :-o It would be incumbent on the printer firmware to ignore the attempt to connect via USB during a print and I can see the issue there. Starting Cura with an option to enable the USB plugin will be fine for me. At the moment it is just disabled by deletion.
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The printer is still available due to my having to relist it as a UK only sale. I know that this may cost me in terms of value returned but I am just not up for the hassle of an international shipment AND the eBay Global Selling Option is CRAP. All the other items are off to their new homes.
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I like it but I just want to put a little...warning I guess and something to work on in later versions.
I had my printer plugged into my PC because hey, it might be useful when I have to print a small thing.
The thing is now that I was printing a big piece and about 12 hours in I wanted to look at something in Cura.
For some stupid reason, Cura and my Ultimaker immediatly saw it as me wanting to print via USB and just completely stopped my current print. 12 hours and a nice amount of material down the drain.
I really hope other people won't experience that.
I am not sure how to do this on Windows but on OSX you can go into the application and move the USB Printing plugin out of the plugins directory. I will probably script things so that I can start Cura with it or without it but have not gotten around to it yet.
Open applications in Finder. Explore the Cura package, the drill into Contents, Resources, Plugins, Plugins.
BTW, this did get me a couple of times and if I am not mistaken you can write a bit of code to see if a resource like a USB port has been allocated to another process before you grab it yourself!
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That makes sense. I know that I am dreaming here but a relative or absolute path option would be a REALLY nice thing for those of us that do not have the need to share a project. I suspect that we are a sizeable part of the community.Yup. Saving a relative / absolute path to a file in a project is bound to break. If you share a project with another person on another PC, it won't work at all. This is why we chose to use 3mf for project files, which means the geometry of the model(s) is stored in the project file.
Does the 3MF format retain the name of the source file as documentation or is there a user extensible attribute that could be used for said file name/pointer? Could you then not offer a refresh option that would be very useful during a models development process and for us tiny little garage or man cave manufactories?
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Hmmmm...not sure why I have not done this before? Good idea. As long as the glass is clean only a minimum of spray stuff is needed :-oWhenever I use hair spray, I spray it onto a paper towel outside of the printer, then wipe it onto the glass. Less mess that way.
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my suspicion is that there's a value threshold that has something do with customs collection and they just don't want to be dealing with the complexity??? Whatever the case customer service should be able to provide some kind of answer! Or an escalation to global shipping program that is responded to quickly (still not heard from them)Heh... sounds like those daft ebay people need to figure out what the EEC is and how customs work inside of it. I don't recall seeing the UK slamming that particular door just yet. Sounds like a fairly useless service they've introduced there.
Is the Ruby Nozzle for the Olsson Block for Sale?
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