Wisar
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Posts posted by Wisar
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how hard is it to change a coupler on an UM2+?
I actually have a spare.
I just dont want to start and then be in the position of not being able to remove or something silly.
It is a lot easier than some of the other stuff that you have done with your printer! Just go for it...there must be a reason that the seller gave you a spare! I have done it numerous times without issue and it is easier now on the + than it was before.
Did it help though?
Will
Haha, yeah it was super easy. Less than 20 minutes to change one start to finish now.
Exactly! The pre "+" printer had a compressed spring that made it a little more exciting as once in a while the spring would come shooting out like a little rocket.
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It is a lot easier than some of the other stuff that you have done with your printer! Just go for it...there must be a reason that the seller gave you a spare! I have done it numerous times without issue and it is easier now on the + than it was before.how hard is it to change a coupler on an UM2+?
I actually have a spare.
I just dont want to start and then be in the position of not being able to remove or something silly.
Will
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That explains why I could not find it. I just rolled back from 2.4 to 2.3 because of some issues that I was having with my UM3 and 2.4 so i guess this will have to wait!In Cura 2.3 that setting is not available for the UM2+ (but it is available for the UM2). This is fixed in Cura 2.4. See the "Machine Settings" on the "Printers" pane of the preferences.
Thanks,
Wisar
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Where is this setting in Cura 2.3? Thanks, WillYou must change the G-Code-Flavor, go to the Machine settings. For Ultimaker 2, the Ulti-G-Code-Flavor is active by default. Change the G-Code-Flavor to RepRap, and then you get in Cura, additional expert setting options.
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I have done quite a bit of work at the 1:100 and 1:160 scale but the stuff that I do are structural originals...like an articulated drawbridge or a windmill. The Ultimaker, with a 250 micron nozzle, is perfect for that kind of thing. What you want to do needs an SLA printer! Maybe you need both...but for what you are describing you need the resin.
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Reverted to Cura 2.3.1 and the problem has resolved itself!
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No I haven't experienced this.
Do your atomic pulls. I don't think this would be the cause and I never do them on mine but it will eliminate it from the back of your mind.
CURA 2.4 beta has heaps of profile changes to previous versions so I would revert back to the version you used when you first got you're UM3.
You may have to do a fresh install by deleting the CURA folders that hold all the saved profiles to remove any possible changes that may be effecting your issues.
I did a cold pull and it came out remarkably clean. I guess there is something to be said for the UM3's handling of the print core! It made no difference as expected.
I had been coming to the conclusion that I might have an issue with the Beta and had just done a test print that goes at least part way to proving that point. I am going to take your recommendation and revert back to 2.3 (clean). Are there folders hidden somewhere that I need to wipe?
Thanks, Will
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My UM3 has suddenly decided to start oozing after months of printing perfectly. I am still doing some tests to try and narrow things down and will post some images later but first wondered...has anyone else seen this happen?
I am using the same materials across a UM2 that is working perfectly and my UM3. I am getting the same result on both AA cores. I have cleaned the extruder driver (and it needed it). I am using the stock profiles from Cura. I am running the Beta but am pretty sure that this started before I downloaded it (test coming). I also have S3D so that is another test coming.
I have not done an atomic clean and am wondering if I should. Just asking the question makes me think that the answer is yes!
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Will
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I will 'def post logs if it occurs again...!For us at Ultimaker it would be interesting to get that data. It might provide information as to why it would be failing.
Dumping the logs can be done using the Menu: System -> Maintenance -> Diagnostics -> Dump logs to USB
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My scientific method in regards to working on this problem, frankly, sucked. The problem does seem to have gone away but I am not completely sure why as I changed more than one variable at a time. I did do the adjustment for the bed per the post recommended by neotko but did not find this to work. On one occasion I cleaned the nozzle on the BB print core and a subsequent auto level did work...but on another occasion, it did not. Then, somewhere along the line, I upgraded the firmware on the printer and, this is where the method broke down, I am pretty sure that I had an auto level failure after the upgrade, but would not swear to it in a court of law. So, at the moment I am working fine............!
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I am running the current firmware, just updated last week, so whatever version that would be.Is the auto leveling now always working for you? I just has my printer 4 days. Did a firmware upgrade on the setup. I'm on 3.5.3.20161221 version.
Which firmware are you running?
Can anyone comment on the real need for auto leveling. @Ultiarjan: did you just level it manually and redo it when needed?
I would be fine with manual leveling if I had not had the failed dual extrusion print in the midst of getting the message that I asked about at the start of this exchange.
Interestingly, I just did an active level and it failed. This was on a build platform that I just manually leveled to perfection yesterday. So I heated the core that is in slot #2 and then wiped the tip of the nozzle and re-did the leveling. It worked. Might be worth a try.
I would like to hear some thoughts from someone at Ultimaker!
Will
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This happened to me as well. The good news is that the fix is reasonably easy to implement. I say reasonably because I am not that dexterous and found it somewhat hard to get the new slider on and so designed this aid:
Ultimaker Sliding Block Fitting Jig Thing
I only used it on the x-axis so am not 100% sure that it will fit the y-axis.
I also found that wrapping the two cracked sliders with cable ties, secured as tightly as possible and positioned to not get in the way of anything, had me back running until I got the replacement parts.
Will
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More on the above. I replaced the BB core with an AA core and the automatic leveling process worked. So I swapped cores again...and the leveling process worked! Even better my two material print with PVA is now well beyond where it had failed before........... :-o
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I manually level for single extruder prints and am fine with that though I still want auto leveling to work. My print surface is sparkly clean and the bed is adjusted manually and is not far from the recommended clearances between the top of bottom plate and the bottom of the heated plate. Yet the auto level fails and what is WORSE is that I just tried to do a two extruder print and IT FAILED! Looks like bad extrusion. The PLA side was just fine.
Will
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Whats up with this message? Just started doing it out of the blue a couple days ago. Followed advice elsewhere on the forum about the distance from the build platform base plate to the bottom of the heated bed and still same error.
Printer is working fine in single extrusion mode but have not tried a dual extrusion print since the error manifested itself.
Help appreciated!
Will
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I appreciate Tom's tactful response and would hope that he understands my point of view as a customer...one that worked for most of his career at a manufacturing company with a name most everyone will have heard of and one that has fought the occasional quality issue. It is all about process discipline, and of course, that includes learning from one's mistakes. I am back up and running, and the repair was not terribly hard to implement, but this is the second issue that I have had (first printer went back as the LCD display tipped over) and that is concerning after my experience with my two UM2's (flawless).>Tom: I have to take a little exception to the language "probably partly our own fault".
I suspect Tom isn't authorized to represent the company so he has to be tactful.
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Tom: I have to take a little exception to the language "probably partly our own fault". Ultimaker manufactures a product that occupies a premium price point that it can demand at least partly due to an expectation of superior quality. It is the Ultimaker name on the printer. If there is a bad part anywhere in a finished product shipped by Ultimaker then it is your fault as it happened in your supply chain and is indicative of a process failure! It is always nice to be able to blame a supplier but it is the Ultimaker name that will suffer regardless of the excuse. Just sayin'Unfortunately, we have used a batch of slider blocks that were made from PC-ABS, and it should have been ABS. Really frustrating, and probably partly our own fault.
[Above statement comes after my spending of hours fixing a new and expensive printer that had been down for days.]
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Replaced the cracked blocks on my printer. Am curious as to the cause of the failure. Obviously I am not the only one impacted.
Anyhow. Replacing sliders is really fiddly. For me anyway. So, being a 3D kinda guy I designed a couple of parts to make slider replacement a little less fiddly. No expressed or implied warranty!
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How about a cloud based repository of profiles with user feedback incorporated. Uploaded by any registered user of this website. Defined by (and searchable by) the printer, material, and whatever else makes sense. Voted on by users as to whether they actually work or not. Authors develop credibility when they upload profiles that are scored well. Authors with credibility automatically have a quality attribute of new profiles set to something above zero with feedback also contributing to that quality attribute. Users can search for profiles with a certain level of quality. Ideally accessible from within Cura with the search capability mentioned above.
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You will find nozzle size in Preferences -> Configure Cura -> Printers
Click on your machine and click 'Machine Settings'
Atleast for my Ultimaker Orginal, I would assume its the same on Ultimaker 2+
But as Neotko mentioned, line width will do the same.
I'm using a 0.4 nozzle and usally have line width 0,35 to get better prints
Is width alone enough? I guess Cura will adjust the flow rate to compensate for the larger width?
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That's a really nice XT-CF20 print, @Wisar. Would you mind uploading it into the print section with some details about the Cura(?) configuration? How far did you have to deviate from a standard configuration?
Thanks. I have uploaded the print with some comments as to the configuration that I used (which was S3D). I have not done a print with this material yet in Cura but having just looked at Cura I am wondering how to handle a nozzle that is not one of the selections. Do I manually adjust stuff like extrusion width and flow rate to account for the 500 micron nozzle that I use or is the nozzle size accessible somewhere and I have missed it?
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Deleted content as it was a duplicate of the above :-o
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Colorfabb XT-CF20 (Carbon Fibre) is a bit of a challenge to print with but the finish is matt and is very nice.I've seen a lot of "mattish" prints that were due to printing at the 'wrong temperature'... So personally I'd start by trying to print with my PLA or ABS a bit too hot (5 to 10 degrees).
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Did you check if your sliderblock shows a crack so it has less grip on the rod?
Had not but just did...THEY ARE BOTH CRACKED! How did that happen...? It seems to be worse on the side with the lever for the 2nd nozzle. Is this stress induced? I have temporarily applied some cable ties that were the perfect size to not interfere with anything.
Will :-o
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Is the Ruby Nozzle for the Olsson Block for Sale?
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
I think that your setup of that printer is well beyond mine (I still print from SD cards though I did have an single board micro driving a printer a while back)! I do have a UM3 next to my remaining 2+ though so I have you there! I am still thinking that I need an SLA or DLP printer but am holding myself back. I have so many half done projects at this point that it is getting silly.