Wisar
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3D Prints
Posts posted by Wisar
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damn... I hope your reseller gives you a proper solution very soon.
Being swapped out tomorrow! Reseller very cooperative (3DGBIRE). Probably helped that it had the good graces to die so quickly.
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But I reinstalled the most recent firmware with Cura and my problem was solved.
Maybe you can try that?
It was worth a shot...but no go. :-( Thanks for the suggestion though. The ironic thing is that the display would be just readable if I could turn off the LEDs...but they are so bright they wash out what little backlight the control panel is emitting.
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I have a support ticket open with 3DGBIRE as I suspect this is a hardware failure but wanted to ask for advice here as well since my brand new printer is a bit dead to me now.
This morning the display had a dark corner and by this afternoon the entire display was dark to the point of being unreadable.
The picture does not do it justice as it is more readable than to the naked eye. Any recommendations other than a new part?
Thanks,
Will
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Thanks. That is exactly what I was looking for. I am assuming that I will be able read the "format" but the coding is something else. I have my RFID reader/writer on my desk ready for a go at it this afternoon or weekend.As far as I know it holds a GUID that identifies the type of material. You can find the GUID's that we defined in the material .xml files that are inside Cura.
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This is something that I gave up trying on my UM2 and now UM2+ printers. I had to lower the temperature by 10 degrees from the profile (model on right) but the result is the model on the left with all detail printing as it should.-
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Only thing is filament recognition isn't working... I plugged the antenna properly, i'm using Ultimaker chipped filament... so idk... I had to tell it manually what it was.
My filament recognition works on the spools they sent me. Have asked for the format and encoding for their RFID tags as I could then use it on other material. The only problem that I have had is that the printer will not establish a wireless hot spot so I have connected it hard.
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I have the capability to write RFID tags...am I correct in assuming that is what identifies a filament spool and if so is the format available?
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Just got my new Ultimaker 3! I must be one of the first in GB as I was #1 in the queue at 3DGBIRE. First impressions are good ones. Unboxing was painless (as you would expect) though the box seemed higher than I remembered from my UM2's. I wondered if the form factor of the printer had changed but that does not appear to be the case. The stuff that comes with the printer has been upgraded a little, you get a real hex driver and some lubricant in more quantity than a sample and yet another glue stick that I will never use.
The front panel of the printer is a little different as there is now a slot for a USB stick instead of the SD card. The back of the printer has changed significantly as has the stuff underneath...which means the on/off switch migrated to the right side. Naturally I was reaching around the left side feeling for it!
The whole startup process went very smoothly (after the interminable power on wait). It nicely walked me through loading the print head thingy and the reels of filament. I then told it to auto level the bed and it did so...asking me how often I wanted it to do this process. Not sure so I said weekly. Then I asked it to do the X/Y calibration. It was dead on for the Y and needed 3 on the X.
I downloaded a fresh version of Cura and fired it up to get a model ready to print. I had a printer running already and the next thing I knew that printer stopped. Why does Cura go out looking for printers and killing whatever is running on them when it starts? Irritating.
Anyhows, I found a little model that requires support and sliced it up. This is a tiny little model but I am doing it in the fine mode (60 micron layers) and it is taking forever. Dual extrusion printing is not fast! Remember...at this point all I have done with the printer is to unbox and calibrate it....and then print a 60 micron layer dual extrusion model that is, up to now, working flawlessly!
Oh, and the printer seems much quieter than my UM2s. All in all very favorable ... I will post a picture of the final model and hopefully will still be feeling happy!
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New printer arrives tomorrow!
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Hey gr5, it is 'def not grain as I have done the rotation test with the same results...and it works the same with real wood and with MDF! I like the astigmatism though. I think the diode laser does cast a rectangular beam...and that could explain it. I was thinking something mechanical but the printer showed zero evidence when spitting out plastic.Oh - you could test the astigmatism versus grain issues by rotating the object you are cutting to see if it moves (then it's grain) or rotating the laser (then it's astigmatism if the problem moves).
On the fan...I suspected that might be the case but did not look at the source code as I really don't want to change anything that would alter printing operations as it is, after all, primarily a printer. It just dabbles in laser cutting (and some plotting). Now my challenge with the LED PWM is the need to preface the laser on and off commands with the M400. I am using a pre-processor though so it is not that hard.
Thanks, Will
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I have hacked my UM2+ to cut stuff and am pretty pleased with the result though I still have a couple things to iron out. I bought the JTechPhotonics 3.8W laser with their controller / power supply.
First a couple of learnings / questions. My first configuration was to use the fan PWM to drive the laser via the M106 command.
From a hardware perspective you need to do two things, first you need to get the 24V fan power down to close to the 5V PWM input. Jay, at JTechPhotonics, said the following: "For the voltage on the fans, yes it would be better if they were put down to 5V (or even 12V). The input is isolated, so it should work fine, but it was designed with 5V in mind. I think the high end of the design is rated at 24volts. If you have a way to get it to 5V then I would recommend it, but you probably are fine at 24V. " I did a voltage divider and took it down to close to 5V. Second, I installed a switch so that I could toggle between the fans working or the laser working.
There is a slight issue on the firmware side though. At least with my printer there is a spike of voltage when the fan circuit activates. I am assuming this is to help the blades of a fan spin up but have not dug into the code to see. You can see the spike using a meter or just by watching, with glasses of course, the laser turn on. Not at all optimal to have a litle black spot everywhere the laser activates! Is this on all machines?
With the above being the case I decided to go the LED PWM route. This is not as clean due to the normal state of the LED being on but I decided to try it anyway. I chose not to use a voltage driver as the supply for the LEDs is under 12V. Same comment about it needing to be switched but this time there are no spikes! There was another problem though. The LED PWM command, M42 S200, seems to get processed as soon as the firmware reads it without waiting for previous commands to be completed! You need to put an M400, wait for everything to be done, command just ahead of it (found that above in the comments on this thread).
The issue that I have now, and know this is probably mechanical, but I am getting two completely different cuts on the Y-axis versus the X-axis! I don't think that I am seeing this when I print though I will do some tests today to try and confirm this. I have a couple blog postings with pictures if you care to take a look. I guess the question for you is whether you have seen this before?
http://raspberrypirobot.blogspot.co.uk/2016/10/yet-more-laser-tuning.html
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Please tell me that this is a new feature that came with the upgrade (the ability to upload from the editor)? :-o
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That is good news but as I am in the UK I have but one word to say. Hmpfh! ...and...Release Dorothy!
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How are things looking at the warehouse? My distributor (3DGBIRE) has told me that they do not have notice yet of when they are getting some printers but that the early buyers (that would include me at #1) would be notified when they do. Hopefully trucks are in the yard getting ready to load?
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Since we are speaking of the cores. What is the plan for additional nozzle sizes? Also, are there any recommended best practices around core management such as material segregation? This could get expensive at 95 quid a pop! Finally, are the cores maintainable (either end user or via service) as they are above the price point for a consumable (at least in this man cave)?
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Good to see you back in time for the fun! I will be staying on top of 3DGBIRE where I had the first UM3 order in their door. :-o I want to hope for the two side of that estimate not the six side!
Wisar
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In advance of getting my new printer I have decided to name her Dorothy. So. RELEASE DOROTHY! There is a nice warm place here on the banks of the Thames for her to hang out in rather than some dank and dreary warehouse in the Netherlands. RELEASE DOROTHY!
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Are you a UM, UM2, or UM2+? Do you have a hood on your machine? Before I upgraded to the UM2+ I had jams more frequently than I wanted when I was printing PLA and left the cover on the printer. The + upgrade seems to have helped with that though. Have you tried pre-heating to 260 degrees right before your next print and then doing an extrusion to blow the pipes clear? I found that can help as well and can be done as startup GCode.
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Like what I am hearing! Wish cores with other nozzle sizes were already available and included a 250 micron nozzle size. Am #1 in the queue in GB for my new printer and am trading in one of my 2+s to make room. :-)
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From what i know first size that is scheduled is 0.8mm nozzle, not sure exactly when but it should be around Q1 2017
Thanks, that is good, though my #1 used nozzle is the .25mm with the .6 being second! Do you know is/where a .25mm nozzle lies in the plan? I am trading up one printer but will keep my other UM2+ for the small nozzle if nothing else (and the money for another UM3 of course).
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Will, or when will, additional sizes of nozzles be available for the UM3? I am assuming this would mean new print cores (not cheap)...but...different size nozzles are really the cat's meow!
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Ok, it is launched! So now what? You start shipping them for the first customer orders. Hopefully you supply chain is all ramped up and this will be a smooth process. Also, hopefully, you will be sharing news of shipments on the forum? Doubly hopefully your regional resellers will be be communicating their own statuses to those first, obviously impatient, buyers. Triply hopefully the UK will be getting some stock soon! I understand the official line is shipping in two to six weeks. Hopefully the outside of this range is pessimistic!
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Ok, so when do I get my printer? My order went into 3dgbire at 4:16...I have to be high on the list for printers in the UK?!? When do I get it when do I get it when do I get it??? :-)
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Thanks @GR5 and @Labern...I have ordered a board from jtechphotonics (care of Robosavvy here in the UK). Not as much fun as hacking a solution but since we are talking about a laser here spending the money seems like a good idea. Ironically, I had read the first couple pages of the post where @Labern mentioned his solution but I stopped before I got there. Not sure about Inkscape as the stuff that I want to cut will be from models in Sketchup but I am downloading a copy to look at.
Ultimaker 3 Front Panel Display Died Today
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
It was Dorothy that went down! They drop shipped me a new unit and it is working find. NFC has not been an issue though the reader seems sensitive to the location of the reel on the holder. Dorothy had an issue creating a hot spot the new machine did that just fine. Did my first customer order with PVA support on her today. Parts were glamorous.