MrTechAgent

Hi, tried your method (using Nylon) but no success!

Having tremendous success using Ninjaflex and the Olsson Block with a 0.6-8mm Nozzle. I noticed even the minuscule diameter increase and decreased feeder pressure played a huge role in combating the Water Absorption as it seems the Molecular Chains have an easier time flowing during the Thermal transition.

Sorry to bump an old thread but does anyone what the fuck should I do to keep a Taulman spool to not unspool every time I let go off the end?

Hi guys, I had a few questions regarding cleaning Nozzles. I have a Workhorse Nozzle where I constantly switch between ABS, PLA, Nylon and PC and the Nozzle get's really gunky on the outside, if it was just ABS I know you can let it soak in Acetone and then peel off the remnants but since I'm using a variety here, I can't seem to figure out how to keep the Nozzle clean ensuring it always stays in working order. Thanks.

You probably have NEVER dealt with an internet store this small. It is staffed by one person who is concentrating on new products. Not the store. He really really wants you to use the other stores out there. He has some fantastic new products coming out - the only one I can mention is a new super hard nozzle that makes steel nozzle look like butter. But store sales? I don't think it's his thing. Also he just moved his family and store into a new house and everything is in boxes and hard to find and everything takes longer than before when you don't know where anything is. Although of course email is in the same place it always was. Maybe your emails are in his spam folder. Thanks gr5. I finally got in touch with Swordiff and he said that he'll ship the order tomorrow. Man, you guys are tough on me LOL!, anyway Swordiff seems like a nice guy.

Thanks gr5. Don't you think him being not big on communication is a bit unprofessional? I have never dealt with such unprofessional transaction in a long time. I hope he has enough time to send me a tracking link once shipped!

Hello! Does anyone know how long does "3D Solex" take to acknowledge an order and ship it? I ordered the Olsson Block two days ago and send them a note regarding a few questions I had about my shipping in the notes during the PayPal checkout as well as writing down the same queries by filling the form on their website, but I still haven't heard back. Not a huge fan of such business where the seller doesn't communicate promptly and since Anders follows this thread, I thought this should click him to check his E-Mails or perhaps improve his communication, there are no re-sellers in my country so ordering via 3D Solex was my only option. Hope it doesn't turn into regret Anders.

Thanks for the info. I find it funny that "Team Ultimaker" never ran into the issue in the 2 years the Ultimaker 2 has been for sale or maybe they are just not bothered enough to fix it, pity.

I'm amazed no one has mentioned this annoying Marlin bug, I face this stupid issue every time I use flexible filaments. Basically if you pause a print with retraction off the feeder stepper motor freaks out and starts moving a few mm back and forth and the UI freezes completely and looses its communication with the other hardware until you switch off the printer. This solves one issue but also in turn wrecks certain software functions like "Change" since it doesn't reverse, printer needs a complete factory reset for a fix. It's annoying and honestly took me a few days to understand the root of my problem regarding this stupid Marlin bug. Any help regarding fixes will be appreciated, thanks.

Hello, I thought I'd share something I've been using and have had successful results with, I find this very useful because of the placement of my Ultimaker and honestly this isn't going to be useful for everyone but I thought I'll share regardless of that. I have a lot of use of normal Thermoplastics and Thermoplastic Elastomers and since my printer is right against a wall, turning and playing with it every time I need to change the filament is quite annoying. I basically took the spool my soldering wire came with and hot glued it right below the sticker as you can see, I usually put normal Thermoplastics ahead and the TPEs at the back as I have found TPEs in front to have a lot of resistance and have trouble feeding. I don't use the guide for the front filament as it just doesn't require but you can. Since it's stuck via Hot-Glue there will be no residue on your printer and the bond between the solder spool and the printer is solid. It hasn't snapped even after 1 month of extensive use. Very simple and perhaps insignificant mod but I just wanted to share as it made my life a little easier.

Thanks izzy, you have been a huge help.

Hi, thanks for the information. I wanted to ask if you notice any bubbling while extruding? I did a little reading and from what I've gathered, my problem wasn't directly related to the settings but more towards the material itself. TPU is absorbs a lot of water like Nylon and bubbling is caused which leads to uneven extrusion. I live in a very humid area but still it's quite odd for a material to absorb water so fast. I wanted to know if you get bubbling or have you ever noticed bubbling? I did bake the Filament hoping to eliminate any water content, haven't got the time to test and confirm if that's the solution to the issue yet. Thanks.

So, suddenly my feeder decided to stop reversing. I can reverse it in Move Material but when I go to "Change" it doesn't move, I'm very upset at constant issues I'm facing with the Ultimaker 2. Since it works in "Move Material", I think it's a Software related issue, anyway. I just need to get it fixed as it's doing nothing but stopping my work. It's quite upsetting. Problem was solved after letting the Transformer completely shut-off and then doing a factory reset.

So after many troubleshooting hours I found the issue and it surprised me. It's related flow modulus of TPU and it's effect while pouring down from the nozzle. I noticed that when the material exited the nozzle and performed its Clockwise or Anti-Clockwise motion, it got stuck to certain portions of the nozzle tip and was stuck there, making the flowing material to gain some resistance and prevent it from passing freely. Once it gained enough mass to drop down it would continue until the cycle restarted. I played with the "Flow Rate" and saw major improvements with little to no missing parts. I still am not convinced if this is the issue or there is a link I'm missing to this annoying property of Ninjaflex. I'll still fine tune my settings for the best settings cause these results although good are not even good enough for Prototypes, will have to resort to Injection Moulding for TPUs.

Hi, So I have a lot of back and forth use of TPU-TPEs on my Printer for my work, overtime I think I have mastered loading Ninjaflex as fast as possible without issues but I recently ran into a strange issue while I was doing a print. I noticed that Ninjaflex was not extruding properly and was leaving gaps after a certain point, then it would start printing properly, I have attached a picture in which you can see the missing spots a tiny dots of Ninjaflex indicating lack of feeding or improper feeding. I did think of - 1) Temperature - I print Ninjaflex at 250C and there is bubbling but overall I never had issues with 250C but still I went to 240C which caused the same issue, then 230C which caused the bending and 225C was not cutting it either. 2) Layer Height - I had heard that 0.1LH is not recommended for Ninjaflex so I bumped it up to 0.2LH but that didn't solve the issue. Now some things like going even slower (15mm/s "Printing speed and Infill Speed" in Cura and down to 50% PS on the interface did minimise but not eliminate the issue), cooling fans at 100% did help but not cure it. One thing also came to mind, I had lowered the current on my Motors previously to solve some issues for fast printing so could that be causing the feeding motion to have uneven prints when printed at a very slow speed? Last thing, this uneven printing isn't present when I print small to medium objects, this problem becomes more extreme with the increase in surface area of the object. I can't understand the relation since feeding motion remains the same regardless of the size but this is something I noticed so thought I'd mention it. Right now as I write this, I'm printing the same model but going even slower (15PS-IFS in Cura and down to 45% in the interface and getting tremendous results. I can't seem to see any uneven feeding right now, I'll still update this post if in fact it finished the print successfully which would confirm that it was a speed related issue. Thanks.

I had a question about maintaining the belts, I wonder if dust accumulation inside the teeth of the belts could degrade performance? I don't know how to clean it, perhaps remove the belts every so often and rinse them in water. That does seem like a unpractical and tedious process but I can't think of anything else. Any help would be appreciated, thanks!

Thanks Izzy! I have been meaning to print that out and change the old feeder but never got the time, thanks for the advice.

Interesting - I would remove the bottom cover permanently and when printing tip the machine a bit with a book or something and use a desk or window fan to cool the board underneath the printer. This could make a huge difference for you. I tiny bit of airflow makes a huge difference in cooling. Hi, The change in current solved the issues, I did another long print and it didn't fail this time. I also stress tested the machine to confirm and I think the current change somehow might have eliminated that issue. Thanks.

Hi, I wanted to change the feeder tension but I can't with the 3 Alan Keys that were included in the box, anyone knows what tool should I get? I'm not good at knowing Hex-Alan keys, they seem to have no numbers for identification? Thanks.

Hi, You made some solid points that make sense in my case, I do live in India and it's quite toasty here although I did have my AC on while printing. Your point about lowering the Current could be the answer as I had fixed "Shifted Layers" issue by dialing down to 1200mA from 1300mA. I'll try lowering Z Current as you mentioned and give it a shot. As I said there was no grinding or a clogged nozzle, I could feel at the back of the feeder that the motor wasn't moving at all, it wasn't clicking it was just stationary. Almost as if the Z error switched it off but...while paused, I changed my material, my material oozed with no issues as soon as I hit start, it would stop the feeder motion and nothing would feed, I hope I'm doing a decent enough job to explain you the situation if not, the next time it happens I'll film it. Thanks, will let you know how the current change helps!

Hi, I have faced this issue which I'll explain below twice in the 1 month of ownership, it certainly isn't common and I couldn't find people who faced it but I thought I'd let you guys know. Basically the Z-Axis freaks out and has jerky motions sometimes while starting the print and recently happened to me (10mins ago) was during a 20 hour print, just 19 hours in!!!!!!!! It basically did something to the feeder motor and stopped feeding it, I paused my print to see if it was a blocked nozzle by removing my material and it wasn't that. I think it's a corresponding bug, once I cancelled my print with no hope the plate while lowering made the same twitching motion until it finally came down to it's original position. One thing to keep in mind is while the print was paused, my feeder motion worked with no issues but as soon as I started it didn't and no it wasn't grinding, I'm certain it's just a bug caused by something and could be easily fixed. Hoping more resolution from your team. Also how do I check my firmware for the Ultimaker 2 and new Firmwares on this site if this in fact has been resolved. Thanks.

Hi, I was talking to Zenalda of your team, in fact I finally received her reply 18 hours ago. I was just upset at how slow the support was, that's it. I did contact my re-seller and he said Ultimaker has sent in a replacement fan. I'm in touch with my re-seller about that. Anyway, I thought the forum would be the best place to interact but I was able to solve the issue before I got replies. I think I was rude above but I just hope you guys do something about the support, because in the end, even if the product is broken, the support and communication will overshadow all of that. Thanks, Sander.

Fixed it, here are pictures. I soldered new leads and then soldered them to the connectors and BAM!, fixed. My fan is resurrected Checkmate Problems. Ultimaker, although I love your printer. Your support is brutally terrible, be responsive and stand behind your product if you want to make big money. [/media]

Okay, so I was able to find the issue, I think. The genius who assembled my unit was certainly an incompetent fellow. I have attached pictures, as you can clearly see my dead (Right) side fan wires are completely crushed under the extruder block. My left (Working) fan has nicely tucked away wires hence no issues, of course. I have contacted my re-seller and he is in talk with Ultimaker to send a new fan. I have also contacted Ultimaker personally and their service is very unsettling, after multiple E-Mails they responded and still haven't responded to my question which is surprising considering I've heard nothing but good things about Ultimaker Customer Support. Not sure how I can recommend any Ultimaker stuff to anybody with their poor and sloppy manufacturing errors, pity.

Hey guys, I received my U2 few days ago, I faced many issues including a clogged nozzle issue and clicking feeder on the first day, I was able to fix those with a slightly altered atomic method. Anyway, the thing I did notice is that my right side fan does not work and didn't work out of the box. I did my research and checked all connections above the TechFlex above the extruder and couldn't find any loose connections. The connectors were snapped as they were supposed to. Another thing I wanted to check was if the fans were working or not by soldering leads to a transformer, I tried to unscrew the 4 screws on the shroud but with no success, Ultimaker have used some sort of a thermoplastic adhesive which prevented me from unscrewing and hence I couldn't even check if the fan was dead or was it a PCB connection issue.... My prints are fine but the OCD of not having the fan work is killing me, I hope you guys can help me with this. BTW - I can upload pictures of the connections above the extruder if you want to see it for yourself, I'm scared to open up the PCB cover right now but if I have no choice, I can do it if someone gave me detailed disassembly instructions. Thanks!