2go
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Posts posted by 2go
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Hello,
I've been printing for a few months on Printinz Zebra plate using Faberdashery PLA. Prints stick good, sometimes too good :)When the adhesion is too strong I have to remove the plate and twist it to release the print. Recently it got really annoying because once the plate is warped, I have to straighten it and recalibrate the bed.
So I am contemplating purchasing heated bed for UM2GO from 3dsolex. Two questions:
1. Anyone use it? Have good or bad experiences to share?
2. This is about printing on heated bed in general not necessarily on UM2GO. Is it reasonable to expect regular PLA to stick well to heated glass without using hairspray/glue stick/ etc? Maybe just wiping the glass with isopropyl alcohol before print? I really don't want things to get sticky and messy.
Thanks.
edit: typos
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I've ordered 5 rolls of Colorfabb's Bluish White. Used up one roll and did not particularly like it. Put the remaining four up four grabs on eBay at half price. One already sold. Anyone looking to try it at half price, just look on eBay
I was getting inconsistent extrusion compared to Faberdashery's Arctic White. Did not test other PLA offerings from Colorfabb but heard that their white colors are problematic, however other colors are supposed to be nice. -
Thanks, just bought a couple from 3dsolex.
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Just broke bowden collet. Not the blue retaining clip, the white collet itself.
I found them very cheap in China. However I need it fast. And chinese new year is approaching...
Any sources to buy at least one in Europe?
Or maybe anyone has a spare and would be willing to sell me?
By the way, any ideas with what to replace said collet in the meantime for at least slow printing without retractions?
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Hello,
since purchasing um2go a month ago I've been using Version: 15.04.03 (for OSX) (did not update to Version: 15.04.4 because 'Reset profile to default' option was missing and I use that quite a lot).
Now I stumbled upon Cura 1.99 (Cura-1.99.0-dev.20151112-Darwin.dmg) which is a completely different beast.
Now could someone please explain me these version naming schemes. Also which version will be developed from now on? I'm a bit confused
Thanks! -
Okay, so a month later... I tested two white filaments extensively. Collorfabb's Bluish White and Faberdashery's Arctic White.
Really disappointed by Colorfabb. No matter what I do speed and temperature wise the prints come out pretty much like this: http://www.flashgamer.com/themes/site_themes/bueno/images/uploads/StripesInPrint.jpg
Not my picture but the result is the same.
On the other hand, Faberdashery's Arctic White prints flawlessly. And very forgiving regarding various print settings.
I really rooted for Colorfabb because their material comes so neatly packaged and spooled however the quality is not really there (only tested this one particular color, others might be way better, dunno). Anyone wants to buy four rolls of Colorfabb's bluish white?
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I tried to read this thread as carefully as possible however I just want to confirm one thing. Will this extrusion upgrade kit include Olsson block? I need one but am not in a hurry. So should I buy it from 3dsolex or wait for upgrade kit? Thanks.
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Cool. How did the test print turn out?
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Bearing sticking just like mine was
Assuming I'm thinking about the same screw, you could temporary remove feeder motor to allow more working space. I did not put that screw back after assembling, it's not THAT necessary -
Arm yourself with patience and do it
Below is before and after the fix. Blue ones are before but ran out of blue for after, it was a sample from faberdashery.
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What I meant is that Z-dropping happened when the print reached height of somewhere around 10-20mm. The actual drop was no more than a layer or two (0.1-0.2mm)
Five prints after the fix it seems that it solved any Z issues I had
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Yes, the question was about removing z-rods. I figured it out in a minute following my post so removed the question hoping no one saw it.
So yeah, I was having issues with Z layer dropping around 10-20mm. Other than that, printing just fine, machine purchased only few weeks ago.
I wrapped a piece of old t-shirt around z-rods and took them out with pliers. Required little less force than I expected. Took rods out through the bottom of the printer. Yep, had to remove electronics board out of the way to make way for one rod.
I really suck at fixing/disassembling stuff so the whole process took approx. 4 hours. Once the z-rods were out, I found out that vertical bearings had some kind of nasty oil/cream inside, so I cleaned both rods and bearings with WD-40. Then cleaned WD-40 residue with isopropyl alcohol and re-oiled everything with tiny amount of baby oil before assembling.
Space is extremely cramped in UM2GO. It took me almost 30 minutes to remove one screw holding the corner of the electronics board. I did not put it back again in case I'll need to repeat this procedure again.
After cleaning, one rod/bearing combination is perfect. I put it back in 'more difficult to access' place. The other pair is slightly better then it was so we'll see... Now printing 10cm high tower to see if it fixed my Z issues.
At first I tried accessing everything from the top but, like peggyb, stopped after a while not wanting the walls to become loose.
I couldn't have done it without reading 10+ threads on this forum. Last post here was especially helpful and inspired me to try and fix these issues myself:
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/17753-um-2-skipping-layers
While I was typing this message my test print is already 40mm high and no skipped layers so far, fingers crossed...
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Here was another question but solved it myself so nevermind
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Thanks, neotko. I saw in the pdf that part is only held to two plastic latches. A brutal amount of force and now it is removed.
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Hello again,
as I have already started this topic about removing various plastic panels from my UM2GO, let's continue
...How do I remove the center panel that covers z axis bearings? Picture below...
Some topics about UM2 refer to unscrewing 2 screws under the building platform and the plastic panel just slides up but I am not sure I see those screws anywhere in my UM2GO. Thanks in advance.
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Great, no more questions. Thank you!
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Hi Robert,
Just got back home after holidays and started printing your feeder.
Now printing mirrored body for grommet. As I have said grommet I hope this is the correct version to print.
Will not mirror any other parts as they seem to be symmetrical (will not use snap on guide).
There are no shops nearby where I can buy metric screws around so will have to order online. I do have some 35mm M3 screws however your description says I need 30mm. Is it ok if I shim it with handful of washers?
Last question, which version of hub+yoke do I need for regular PLA? As I understand 35-39mm versions are for softer materials?
thank you!
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Thank you both!
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Hi,
how do I remove white side panel to access feeder motor?
Thanks!
And while I have your attention, I just found out about the existence of alternative feeder by IRobertI for UM2. Haven't researched that much yet but I wonder does it fit UM2GO also?
Double thanks!
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the_schire -- standard white is off white, yes? ever tried bluish white?
I was contacted yesterday by some helpful guy from Faberdashery telling me that they have Arctic White in stock already (in 3mm). Cool customer support.
So I think I will order a spool from Faberdashery's Arctic White and Colorfabb's Bluish White and decide for myself.
Still on the fence about White from Ultimaker. Should I try that one? There was a new negative thread posted about it here this morning: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/18483-newly-bought-filament-from-ultimaker-broke
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Labern, yeah, heard really nice things about diamond age. However, no way to get it shipped to Europe at a reasonable price...
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neotko, I actually did contact Faberdashery. They said they will have arctic white in stock after new year's. Have you used their arctic white?
ultiarjan, thanks, will check makerpoint out.
anyone used white from Ultimaker? opinions? searched the forum. Found one guy saying he liked it, another one hated it.
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Hello,
I need to buy 4 or so spools of white PLA filament.
Have you used any of the following IN WHITE? Any feedback is welcome, good or bad.
1. Ultimaker WHITE PLA
2. Colorfabb BLUISH WHITE PLA/PHA
3. Eumakers WHITE PLA
4. Any other good from European maker/vendor?
Note, I did not include Faberdashery Arctic White because they only offer it in 1.75 at the moment.
Thank you!
To be printed with UM2GO.
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Thank you for the answers, greatly appreciated!
By the way, regarding Zebra (Ninja) plate -- before posting here, I contacted the guys who manufacture said plate and they assured me that while the print area of UM2GO is 120x120, the actual print bed is 125x125 and that is the size of Zebra (Ninja) plate I need to get. Hope someone finds this useful.
I was getting inconsistent extrusion compared to Faberdashery's Arctic White. Did not test other PLA offerings from Colorfabb but heard that their white colors are problematic, however other colors are supposed to be nice.
Heated bed on UM2GO and in general
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
Thanks @Labern for reassurance. Will definitely order one.
Does the heated bed warm up before the nozzle and not at the same time? How long does it take? If a minute or two, then no problems.
At this point I am only interested in printing PLA. Do the printed parts separate easily from the glass once it cools down or will I have to pry/use force? That is my main problem with printing on Zebra plate. Sometimes it just does not want to let go
Final thing: are heated bed options controlled via UM2GO interface (custom firmware) or CURA? I could not find anything related to heated bed in CURA besides a single check-box to turn it on/off. Thanks.