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I have used Sketchup for a while--mostly for home construction projects, for which it is pretty good vs. mechanical assemblies with many details, for which SolidWorks is better. Making Sketchup models work with 3D printing is new to me, though, since I only got my UMO+ a few weeks ago. Things that you don't have to worry about if all you're creating is a model or drawing can become a big problem when printing. I discovered this with a model I designed in Sketchup recently. I sliced it in Cura, started the print job and walked away. When I came back there was about 3/4 of model and a pile of spaghetti on top of it. I looked at the layers in Cura and found that at one point the nozzle was attempting to print in the air, but it was not obvious to me as a novice. Now I typically check to make sure the layers look the way I expect them before printing. In that case I fixed the model by a combination of SolidInspector2 and hand editing the model to make it watertight. Editing the model is not that hard once you understand how Sketchup works. Your model is not very complex, except for the embossed text, which also appeared to have holes. You should be able to fix it in Sketchup. To form a surface in Sketchup you need to have at least 3 points/vertices with 3 connecting lines (a triangle). You can make a surface with more than 3 points if the points/lines are all on the same plane. That allows you to delete extra lines without creating a hole. If you deleted a line and the surface disappeared, you can either undo and try deleting a different line, or try adding a line (pencil tool) by snapping to points around the perimeter of the hole. If you are lucky, you will add the line at the right points, and a surface will appear in the hole. Sometimes you need to keep trying to find the missing line. If the hole is not triangle shaped, you might need to add a line from point to point across the hole. This would be the case if the points/lines forming the hole are not all on the same plane. Once you've filled in the hole, you can try to delete other extra lines. More important than removing extra lines, however, is to find and close any holes or gaps in the model. Since you know where the problem printing areas are on the part, I would focus on those areas. Using the move tool, sometimes you can drag a point to snap to another point to close a small gap. Try not to get too frustrated. This is all part of the learning process, which I have also been going through myself recently.

miksa3d, I opened your first .STL file, and the first thing I noticed is that it is tiny, only about 10mm in length. From the pictures you posted, this looks to be scaled down to about 10%, so I scaled it up 10x (1000%) to make the length about 100mm.. Using the default "Low Quality" settings in Cura 2.1.3, I did not see any issues in layer view. You might want to adjust your Cura settings, for example Material Diameter should be 2.85mm and I you may not need 50% in-fill. Also your print speed seems slow. I have had good luck with the default settings in Cura for PLA. My not too experienced guess is that these settings are most likely not causing your problems, however. For a part like this, I have had good luck using Sketchup, which you mentioned you have used. SolidWorks is fine, but is probably overkill for a part like this. Also I only have SolidWorks 2014, so I can't open your SWX2016 file to look at it. I did, however, open the first STL file in Sketchup. Again, the model was scaled down very small, so I scaled it up 10x. I see a lot of unnecessary lines in the model that can be deleted. You may have already seen these, but here are a couple of links describing how to make Sketchup models watertight for 3D printing: Prepare Sketchup files for 3d printing 3d printing with Sketchup When I group the model and check the entity info, it shows that it is not a solid, so there is a problem somewhere and the SolidInspector plugin is not able to fix it automatically. You will need to zoom and look at all the vertices to make sure they are all connected. The first thing I would do is delete as many extraneous lines as possible, and fill in any holes you find by drawing lines connecting points. I saw an open area in the notch next to the hole where you were having some trouble. This might be the cause, but it also could be a problem caused by the import into Sketchup. In any case, it will take a bit of work, but you should be able to clean up the model in Sketchup and see if that works for you. I can post some pictures of what I'm talking about if you like, but it's getting late tonight and unfortunately I don't have the time right now. Good luck.

neotko, Your method sounds like the right way, while mine is the "lazy" way. I will defer to your vast experience on this matter .

I had the same problem with my new UMO+ after about a week of use. I had a leak at the joint at the PEEK isolator/brass threaded tube/heater block. To fix it, heat up the nozzle to operating temperature (180 - 210°C) and with a small wrench carefully tighten the PEEK isolator (the brown part) onto the brass tube and heater block. Try to keep the heater block from rotating while you tighten it. You don't need to tighten it much. The assembly instructions say to hand tighten it, but I think it needs a little bit more torque than that. While the heater block is still hot, wipe up the molten filament material as best you can with some small pieces of towel and wipe the nozzle too. Otherwise you will get more brown "boogers" and burnt material on your print until it finally all drips off. I periodically check for leaks and I have had none since I tightened the connections. No more brown spots on my parts.

Thanks meduza! I figured I could do it that way, but it seemed awkward. Until Cura 2.2 is released, I will continue to use 15.04.06 for the bed leveling function.

Sorry for the possibly stupid question (yes, I know there are no stupid questions, only stupid people ). On my UMO+ I want to run the Bed Leveling Wizard using Cura 2.1.3 and I can't find it anywhere. On Cura 15.04.06 I find it easily in the Expert drop-down menu. Since I don't have the on-printer Maintenance functions like a UM2 does, how do I do this on my UMO+? Thanks

Hello Ultimaker Community, I received my UMO+ kit a couple of weeks ago and assembled it over the weekend. Overall, the assembly went very well, although it did take longer than I expected because I was being meticulous. I am new to personal 3D printers, but I have a number of years of experience with the "professional" systems at work. I changed jobs a couple of years ago and have not had ready access to a printer since then, so I finally broke down and got myself the UMO+ kit. I figured that by building it myself it will be easier to maintain and mod it in the future. I have been having a lot of fun with it impressing people with print quality. It even compared favorably to a print from a $trata$ys machine. My wife couldn't figure out why I bought it, but after I made a figurine or two for her, she now gets it . As I assembled the UMO+ kit, I noted a few things that might be useful for a future update of the assembly manual. Please note that these edits are mostly minor and I did not have any difficulty assembling the kit using the v3.0 manual. Sorry in advance for this long posting. Ultimaker Original Plus Assembly Manual v3.0 Notes: p.7: Fan pack does not include (1 ea) 1326 Warning sticker p.7: “Feeder pack” is called out in the manual, but it is labeled “Extruder Pack” on the zip-lock bag packaging. p.10: “Axle pack” is called out in the manual, but it is labeled “Axes Pack” on the box. p.14: There is no “Warning sticker” included in the kit to place on the back panel. p. 15: I needed to use a small hammer and a scrap piece of wood to set the bearings into the holes. There is no way this could have been done by hand as described in the manual. p.16: Fig.4 shows Front, Left and Right panels, but should show Front, Left and Back panels. p.19: Cable ducts are labeled “long” and “short” in the manual, but are labeled “front” and “back” on the zip-lock bag. p.23: (3 ea) 1214 Lock nut should be (7 ea), and no 1209 Hex nuts are needed. p.31: (12 ea) 1208 Hex nut should be (12 ea) 1209 Hex nut p.46: Figure 101 is incorrectly labeled as Figure 86. p.49: Quantity of 1028 Z linear shaft should be (2 ea), not (1 ea) p.55: No 1326 Warning sticker was included in my kit p.61: Step 3, “fronr” should be “front” p.62: Step 5.1.5-1: No warning sticker included in my kit p.70: “Feeder pack” is labeled “Extruder pack” on zip-lock bag p.71: “M6” nut, washers and cap nut should be “M8” p.93: 8.2.4 Sensors, Step 2: “black plug” is actually white, but the cable is black. May be better to call it “black cable” Additional Notes: Although the instructions say to hand tighten the PEEK isolator and brass tube to the heater block, I found that I needed to use a small wrench to tighten the connection a bit after a week or so of use. I was getting some PLA leakage that was leaving brown deposits and “boogers” on my prints until I figured out what was going on. Also, I don’t remember seeing anywhere in the instructions to place the glass plate on the heated bed. Although this may be obvious, for completeness it would be nice to add that step to the manual. Please take or leave these suggestions at your discretion. As I mentioned already, I had no real difficulty with the assembly, but these edits might help someone in the future. In general the v3.0 manual is very good. Also as mentioned above, my kit did not include the “warning stickers” to place on the print head and back panel as indication in the manual. Have these been eliminated from the kit, or were they just missing from mine? Best regards, Roger

I use SolidWorks for most things, but a free alternative that is very similar is OnShape, which some others have already mentioned. These are good for "mechanical" shapes and not so good for organic shapes. For the organic shapes, I have tried Blender, but found it clunky. I've also tried Rhino, but that has a steep learning curve and is expensive. I have been experimenting with Sketchup, which is good for simple shapes. Complex ones are more difficult, but I have had some success. I have yet to try to 3D print something I've designed in Sketchup, however.

How about for a UMO(+)? Is there a way to find runtime stats?