rowiac

I also had a small issue where one of the shaft endcaps (the small piece of wood with 2 screws that keeps the shaft in the frame) was rubbing on the shaft and preventing it from turning easily. I resolved that by adding washers to space the endcap away from the frame to give the shaft some clearance to turn. If one or more shafts is difficult to rotate, you might check that.

When I built mine ~6 months ago, I think there was an earlier version of the assembly instructions that said to replace the setscrews in the pulleys with the ones in the bag. Maybe it's different now, but you should check to see if the setscrews are the same. The ones that came with the pulleys may be a different material (hardened steel instead of stainless, for example) and may have a different tip shape (cup point versus flat tip). If you have already installed them, you should be fine, but otherwise you may want to consider using the ones that came in the bag. In any case, tighten them really well--I mean about as tight as you can with the 2mm hex driver. I just had a shifted print error because one of the pulleys came loose.

Jesse, Here is a pretty good basic article on dealing with Sketchup models for 3D printing. 3d-printing-with-sketchup/ I mostly don't use Sketchup because of the problems it creates in the models, but it is very easy to use for some things such as square edged shapes.

Sketchup is not recommended for 3D printing, which is too bad, because I learned how to use it for woodworking and home remodeling projects and it can do a lot of things in that realm pretty well. Unfortunately the models it creates typically have messed up faces and vertices that make them non-manifold and no good for printing. You can try to manually fix the issues with some difficulty and there is a plugin available to try to fix the issues, but it doesn't always work. If you are a beginner in the modeling for 3D printing world, I would stay away from Sketchup and use one of the other free CAD tools recommended in this thread. I personally use SolidWorks because I have it for work. Otherwise I would probably go with Fusion360. If you want to do organic shapes and editing of existing models and 3D scans, I recommend Meshmixer. Once you get comfortable with that, you could move up to ZBrush or one of the other professional modeling tools.

If what Titus is asking is true, then you will need to re-level your bed. Make sure a piece of regular printer paper will slip between the nozzle and the glass bed with a bit of drag in all three locations. Also make sure there is no filament stuck to the tip of the nozzle when you level it (don't ask how I know to check for this). On the UMO+ (I assume the UMO as well) you can manually rotate the feeder wheel to prime the nozzle prior to running your print. I usually preheat the bed first since it takes longer, then the nozzle, and once it reaches at least 180C (for PLA), I rotate the feeder wheel by hand until some filament starts oozing out. Some filament will continue to ooze after that, but as long as it's not too much it should get stuck to the glass and wiped off as the printer homes and starts the print. You can also remove the excess material with tweezers just as the bed starts to move up.

It sounds like what you need is a CAD tool, rather than a sculpting tool. I currently use SolidWorks, which will pretty much do what you are asking in that you can enter exact dimension values, shell out solids with a single operation, rotate the view using the keyboard, and edit dimensions after the fact. It is, however, expensive. Although I haven't tried it yet, you might want to give Fusion360 from Autodesk a go. It's free for students and makers and has a lot of tutorials available. It seems to be on par with SolidWorks for modeling tools, and may be more oriented for 3D printing.

Now that I've had a chance to try SketchUp with 3D printing, I agree completely about staying away from it. It's too bad because I had invested some time learning to use it for woodworking and construction projects, but for 3D printing it is crap.

For mechanical design, I currently use SolidWorks, but I've used Inventor for several years in the past. I think they are mostly equal in usability and capability. As mentioned already, OnShape is the closest "free" app to SolidWorks and works well if you have a fast internet connection. For organic shapes, I've tried Blender but was discouraged by the learning curve. I've used Scupltris, but haven't made much headway with it. There are a lot of meshes it won't open. I've had the most success with Meshmixer, which is free from Autodesk. There are quite a few tutorial videos available, and I still have a lot to learn on it.

I've had good service from Dynamism, from whom I bought my UMO+. There is also 3D Universe who also provide good service, but I have only bought filament from them.

Count me in as another interested party for a potential UMO+ upgrade kit. We have a Stratasys uPrint SE Plus at work, and the only advantage it has over my UMO+ is that it can do dissolvable support material. Otherwise my UMO+ is faster, smaller, prints with much higher resolution, has a larger build area, prints with a multitude of different materials (TPE, Nylon, WoodFill, etc.)...the list goes on. Probably need to consider a UM3 for work next time. But for my home UMO+, if I could print support material, or a second model material for that matter, I would have a fully capable system that would fit my (low) budget.

Thanks for the response. I ended up calling support and they sent me a replacement UltiController board. The UMO+ warranty period is one year, so it was no big deal.

I went with the UMO+. It will take you a couple of days to build it, but after that you won't be afraid to take it apart to fix anything that might go wrong. Compared to the UM2/UM2+, just think how much filament you can afford with the money you save. Or, you could even buy a second UMO+. BTW the extra cost for a UMO+ vs. UMO is well worth it. The heated bed is a really nice feature.

BTW, even the OEM plastic clip bounces between the two nuts during retraction, so that is normal.

60°C should be fine for the bed. I have not noticed a significant difference between that and 70°C. When I upgraded to Cura 2.1.x, I noticed that the default bed temperature for PLA was 60°C, and that's what I have been using.

Follow neotko's advice. In addition to making sure the glass is perfectly clean (don't touch it with your bare fingers), you can apply some gluestick and spread it around evenly with a wet cloth until you can barely see it anymore. Also try using a brim on troublesome prints. You can increase the width of it in Cura if the default (8mm?) is not enough. As neotko said, the disadvantage with getting the part to stick to the glass really well is that it can be hard to remove it. I'm usually too impatient to wait until the bed cools down and I bent my removal tool. Fortunately I have not damaged the glass bed (yet).

All the clip does is prevent the knurled shaft/large gear/gear cover/acorn nut assembly from working its way out. It snaps on and off the shaft to make it easy to remove the assembly and clean the knurled shaft if needed. You should contact your reseller to get a replacement clip. They will probably direct you to fbrc8 who are the Ultimaker service center for the USA. Your UMO+ has a 1-year warranty, so keep that in mind.

The rotation of the heater block shouldn't matter as long as you aren't putting undue stress on the wires. Mine is rotated at a slight angle from when I tightened it to stop leaks.

Have you looked at the slices in the gcode to see if those marks appear there?

I can't see the picture, but here are a few questions: Is the glass plate very clean? Any oil from fingerprints could cause poor adhesion. Did you try using a brim in your Cura settings under Platform Adhesion? Have you tried using the gluestick on the glass plate? Apply some to the plate and then spread it evenly and thinly using a damp cloth. For PLA I don't think a small draft will make much difference, but you could try increasing the bed temperature to 70°C.

I'm not sure what exactly you are trying to do, but most likely the motor's rotor is pressed onto the lead screw shaft. The bearings are likely pressed on too. You can probably remove all that from the housing pretty easily, but the pressed on parts would be tough to deal with.

I got the discount code too, but I wasn't sure if that was after my first order or after I registered for the Misumi site. Anyway, I paid full price, but I'm happy with the parts. Regarding getting Misumi replacements under warranty from fbrc8, I had no idea they would do that! I would have tried that had I known. I recently contacted them to replace my UltiController board and they responded quickly.

The lead screw is integral with the stepper motor. This eliminates the need for a collar to attach the two parts and avoids any runout that might occur due to dimensional tolerances.

I've only printed in PLA so far, so I can usually get by with just a (very clean) heated bed at 60 - 70degC. For stubborn prints I may use some gluestick spread to a very thin layer with a damp towel. If you are printing with ABS or some other material, someone else will need to chime in.

Try 3D Universe and Dynamism and of course Amazon.

Eraser, In my experience, grease is for slow moving bearings, whereas oil is for high speed operation. The printer platform is very slow moving so you should be good with the grease. You just don't want the grease to be so thick and sticky that the platform will not drop of its own weight to take up the backlash in the nut. Let us know how it works out.