ynagersheth

Hi, my Y-axis rod shifts its position after a few prints and many times just falls of while printing. I have changed the clips in which the rod fits as well. I have 2 machines, one um2+ extended and 2 um3's. This issue happens with both the um3's. Don't know what is causing it. Any help is appreciated. Thanks

Thanks for the suggestions. I am actually planning on doing lost pla process and wanted to cover the seam lines of the component I joined. I'll try the CA glue. The friction welding worked but post processing is a pain. Thanks!

Have you guys tried jb weld plastic repair putty? Or plastruck weld? Thanks!

Hi guys! How do you cover/hide the seam lines after joining PLA parts with super glue? Thanks!

Yes.. but the PVA is just 7-8 grams of the total weight. I use a 0.8 nozzle on my um2+ in which the weight in Cura and actual weight are pretty close. But when I print a part in the um3 with a 0.4mm nozzle there is a large difference in cura and the actual weight. ( printing ultimaker nylon) After submerging the part in a water tank with a pump (to remove pva faster) my nylon part became soft( squishy)....i can literally press the bottom of the part Does Ultimaker nylon become soft due to water exposure? Thanks!

Hi I have noticed that the weight of my printed part in cura and the actual weights are different. my part in cura is 267 grams and in actual it turns out to be 185-190 gms. this is happening on the um3 I also print components on um2+ where the part weights are similar in cura and actual. I am confused on how this is happening. I use a 0.8mm nozzle on um2+ and a 0.4mm print core on the um3 I used UM nylon in both cases, plus pva on the UM3 Please help. Thanks, Yash.

Hi I just got an ultimaker 3 couple of days back. MANY OF MY PARTS DO NOT REQUIRE SUPPORT MATERIAL OR DUAL EXTRUSION. I AM CONFUSED ON HOW TO CONFIGURE CURA FOR SINGLE NOZZLE PRINTING (CORE AA) THE OTHER QUESTION IS THAT THE BUILD VOLUME FOR SINGLE NOZZLE PRINTING ON UM3 IS 215MM IN X AND Y AXES. WHEN I TRY TO GENERATE THE GCODE FOR A 200MM LENGTH PART (X AXIS) CURA IS NOT SLICING AS IT SAYS THAT THE PART IS TOO BIG FOR THE BUILD VOLUME. (BECUASE FOR DUAL EXTRUSION MAX BUILD SIZE IS 197MM) IS THERE A WAY TO TURN OFF EXTRUDER TWO? OR CHANGE THE MODE IN CURA FOR SINGLE NOZZLE PRINTING LIKE UM2+ OR IS IT POSSIBLE THAT I GENERATE THE G-CODE BY SELECTING UM2+ IN CURA AND PRINT THE PART IN UM3? THANK YOU

18-20 hours

Hi I am trying to make ABS juice. I used lab grade acetone and abs from Ultimaker and a Chinese brand..dont remember the name It's been sitting for almost 18 hours and is not looking like what I've seen online. I used 100 ml acetone and about 8-9 grams of filament. Can't find out what's wrong. Please help This picture is after almost 18-20 of mixing

You can try using XTC-3d. It will mask the layer lines and you'll be able to paint on it

Hi! I have been printing with UM nylon since a while. I used to have pretty successful prints (unwarped). My last few prints have started warping and cant find out the reason why as all the settings in Cura are the same for most of the prints. I currently use glue stick and 85-87 degree bed temp as I have 8 to 14 hour long prints. Can anyone please suggest any other stronger bed adhesion methods for long prints? Thanks! I am going to try masking tape and liquid glue instead of the glue stick Also my brim lines have not been coming great lately they lift of near the print area ( I use 15 brim lines and lines 11-14 lift for some reason after a couple of hours) and sometimes they curl and dont stick to the bed perfectly resulting in small air gaps that I try to cover with glue but eventually warps the print. I use a 0.8 mm nozzle, 252 as the nozzle temp, 0.26 as initial layer height and 0.8 as brim line width. I keep the nozzle close to the bed to get good squish about 0.1 to 0.12mm close to the bed. These settings have worked fine till now. Do you think I should change them? Thanks!

Hi! I was using an older version of cura..dont remember the version but the one which has all the settings in the left hand side. I have transitioned to a newer version of cura which I currently available for download on the ultimaker website. With the older version I used to get very good brim lines and bed adhesion and great quality prints. I copied all the settings from the older version of cura to the new version but there seems to be some issue as some brim lines lift ( I usually keep 15 brim lines with glue on the plate while printing with nylon as I have 8-14 hour prints) and bed adhesion and print quality has reduced. I have maintained the same style of bed levelling as well. One setting I am not sure is in older version of cura in advanced settings the initial line width is 100% so to replicate that I have used 0.8 as initial line width in the new version as I am using 0.8 nozzle. Do these settings have different effects depending on the version of cura or should I revisit the bed levelling procedure again? Thanks!

Is it possible to buy the Ultimaker nozzle kit which comes with the UM 2+? Or even the 0.6mm and 0.8mm nozzle separately. I couldn't find it in the spare parts section on the website. Thanks!

Has anyone machined (drilling/tapping) a UM Nylon 3D printed part? How does it hold up? Thanks!

Thank you for the reply..will look into machinable wax

Thanks for the reply. There's a video on the Ultimaker website which shows Siemens using it for investment casting process. I have pasted the link at the bottom. Ultimaker also states that their pla is great for lost casting method in the materials section of their website so I thought it might be a good option to try instead of wax for investment casting of components.

Hi, I am trying to use UM pla for "lost pla casting process" (investment casting). How do I attach/mount the pla patterns to the wax assembly(tree) containing the sprue and runners? Thanks.