Belezeebub

I have been using good old UHU glue stick on my glass plates forever it just works. Now that I have my S5, I can work on orders that require filaments that are more exotic. I am building a fully sealed Chamber with a vent hood for the printer, complete with active carbon filters venting outside. I have 2X CC Red Ordered. My first Order is sample prints in Nylon, CPE and Poly Carbonate. I asked about the LayerLock Garolite no one has used it yep but I will pick one up once they are back in stock just for testing. (However, I digress) Let us talk 3d Adhesives. Which ones have you used and would you suggest for Nylon CPE and PC. Can anyone explain why 25ML of what is water-soluble glue is 20 bucks? That will alter my per part cost. Magigoo 19.95 for 100 Applications about 20 cents each time you use it and you have to use it in one month? Stick Stick? Dimafix seems to work bests for HIGH bed temperatures 75c+ Smart Stick Nano Polymer Adhesive?

I need to start printing some glow in the dark and metal fill filaments anyone used the Solex or the CC cord want to give me their two cents? Ultimaker CC red Ruby has a Mohs hardness of 9.0 Pro Made by Ultimaker designed for the S5 Con One size Solex HardCore Pro 7 Stainless steel has a 5 to 8 on the Mohs scale, I am assuming they are closer to five on this part because of the cost. Pro’s Cost Extra Sized Comes with .25mm, .4mm, .5mmss, .6mm, .8mm and 1.00mm nozzels Con Never heard of Solex but a few google searches show it is most likely a Knock-off of the Ultimaker part, and quick google search I find posts about them working but only “Kind of” fitting correctly.

I have made three attempts to print Reuleaux Triangle Bearing Gears (thing:2897010) all with Tough Ultimaker PLA the latest one at .06 all hopelessly fused. 20% Infill I turned off Fill Gaps between walls and it was the lease fused I was able to break it apart but without that setting even a bowl of Wheaties, can of Spinach, ten billion rems of gamma radiation and plyers can't move it (right side) I am running 4.2.1 Any suggestions? I was able to print the same thing first time on my MK3, do I need grab a .025 hotend? I am using this to dial in the printer before I try "GYRO the DODO by Stijn ) I want one on my desk

I have cash, credit card, Paypal heck even gold or silver, Pm me when you have them for a S5

Just got my S5 I got a lightly used one for a Good price, after spending 3 hours updating firmware and cleaning out one heck of a nozzle clog it is printing and I am happy. A few questions are there supposed to be Clips on the Hotend side of the nozzle? mine are missing not a big deal I can print more (just downloaded and sliced every single clip I could find on Thingaverse . Where can I get A Maintenance kit for an S5? I know it seems odd but I think pliers were used to pull the #1 Tube out as there are marks near the Hotend and the missing Clips, so I want to start out on the right foot.

Has anyone used the LayerLock Garolite Build Plate from MatterHackers on a S5 yet? I just got a new customer who wants me to print a sample in all the options so he can pick the one he wants. NylonX[2][3] NylonG[2][3] PLA[1] TPU TPE PETG[1] Wood-fill materials Metal-fill materials[2][3] Nylon (Various)[2] Taulman 910[2] Taulman T-Glase PVA [1]May require PVA glue [2]Nylon Filament requires the 3D printer to have an all-metal hotend. [3]Abrasive materials require the 3D printer to have a High Performance Nozzle such as a Hardened Steel Nozzle or Ruby Nozzle.

I ended up getting the S5 it should be here week after next, I feel like I am 6 again and its Christmas morning. (but I digress) at about 25:20 on this video an Expansion for the S5 is hinted at its over a year later anyone have a clue what it is? I want to print the Gyro orb showed in just about every dual extruder demo for a Ultimaker printer anyone that has printing it want to share the settings you used?

I am really on the fence here, My Taz 6 is a work horse it just keeps churning out prints never a problem unless I fat finger a settings, but dual color it just fails hard Nozzle 2 always seems to mess up the surface finish, so seeing I am adding a 6th printer I allocated a larger budget. (6K US) I started out with six possible printers on my list Raise2d Pro 2, Taz Pro, Um3, Ums5, MakerGear M3-ID, and BCN3D Sigmax R19 Independent Dual Extruder 3D Printer. I asked the support techs at MatterHackers, I asked on the forums and I used the last month to research. Raise3d Pro 2 - This machine is a beast. For the price point, you are getting a machine that has a huge build volume and is built like a tank. Most everything in the machine has been upgraded from the previous N2 version and this machine can print beautiful prints. Nice Review but if you search Raise3d forums you find a totally different story. As of right now the posts on their own forums are Under Extrusion, Clicking, Jam, Shift, Jam, Clicking, more Jam and more jam and clicking (So I knocked this one off the list) Ultimaker 3 or S5 - Very similar machines with the S5 having a larger build volume, nice touch screen interface, filament runout sensor, improved leveling, and CC core for abrasives. If it was in your budget, I would certainly opt for the S5 over the Ultimaker 3 The printer is pretty new but I am already seeing people trying to dump them on eBay, and refurbished units and returns plus a number of bad reviews, most listing poor print quality and reliability To me refurbished means someone returned it and the copy hit it with some 409 did a test print and slap a 5k price on it. Lulzbot Pro - This one is tough. It has lots of great features and I have seen the machine perform here in the office. Since it is so new, I do not have a lot of feedback to give on the machine other than my first impressions. The dual extrusion on this machine is definitely far superior to that of the TAZ 6 with the nozzles being stationary on that machine No reviews I can find, but more then one post about “Extruder 1 Filament Error” and the new run-out sensors causing issues BCN3D Sigma R19 - I really do like the IDEX setup for extrusion. However, from my experience it does seem like the QC on the machines have been hit or miss. When the machines do perform, they are amazing and the IDEX allows for really quick multi-part or batch printing. Extruding issues listed on their forums MakerGear M3 ID - I really like this machine. It does have a small build volume compared to the other machines that you mentioned, but it is built incredibly solid. I have recommended this machine to quite a few of my customers and have gotten nothing but great feedback on this machine. The latest version added autobed leveling which is great for reliability and repeatability. Posts about the noise, clogging, poor reliability and poor print quality I am a hobbyist I print mostly do-dads and cute things that strike my fancy. I have a few commercial contracts for ABS and ASA parts but all the profits just go into buying filament for my hobby. I have five Printers right now three of which I use daily, and right now my Taz 6 is running 24x6 to fee a 1000-piece order. I had a non-kit real I3 Mk3 (HATED IT returned for a refund) I love my Taz but dual color is a fail So I thought about the raise3d Pro2 till I found the negative reviews I knocked it off the list, I looked at the MakerGear m3 id till I heard one running and poof it was off the list, I found too many bad reviews on the BCN3d so that one is a no go. Which leaves just three options UM 3 I could get two refurbished ones for my budget or one new one and a ton of Filament UM 5 I like the size, I like the new CC nozzle option, but is it really worth 6k New? I can get a used one for 5k with some filament thrown in, I can get a refurbished one with a 6mt warrantee for 5200 and free shipping, so between refurbished and used is a toss up warrantee or extra filament? Taz Pro I would shout it from the root tops I love my Taz, but dual color it is NOT, the new pro lifts the nozzle and is using real e3d titan Aero’s but no reviews but it is 1k cheaper than the UM S5.

Care to explain that in a PM as to not Hijack this post as I am just days away from plopping down a months takehome on an S5

First off, I don’t have a S5 Yet. There is a 50% chance I will in the next 5 to 7 says if not the s5 it will be a Taz Pro, if I had purchased one and I was promised an Aluminum built plate and was told after the fact I wouldn’t getting one I would be majorly upset. Which is exactly what happed with my Prusa I3 Mk3 I was supposed to get Power coated PEI, the reviewers got power coated PEI, the reviews raved about the power coated PEI sheet, I never got mine and it left a bad taste in my mouth but seeing I returned that piece of junk mk3 I got over it. Personally, I would think a flexible build sheet would be a lot more helpful for me, personally I am looking at the BuildTak FLexPlate for my next printer. Its 155 for the S5 maybe Um can make a deal with BuildTak for a free one or a good discount if you don’t want the second glass plate?

No disrespect intending, on Amazon or eBay there is some buyer and Seller protection, here you could send me a 40-pound box of rocks and make off with a month of my take home pay, so I have to consider if it is worth saving +1200 or so to take the chance. I was all for it till I saw the post I linked. I don’t want the same thing to happen to me. So let me give it some thought.

I want to add a 5th printer, after much research I have narrowed my options to a Taz Pro or the UM3/S5 Taz Pro Lifting Nozzles no time lost running up to flip the switch True dual e3d Nozzles Not a boden Travel backlash correction Con New Untested UM3 Pro Smaller but older printer more of the bugs worked out Nearly 1/2 the cost of the other two options Con No Harden core (native not including 3rd party) UM s5 Pro Larger build area Semi enclosed "Faster" (I loaded the same model with the same support, build plate adhesion, infill and Layer the Pro was 19 hr the UMS5 was 13 hours as per Cura 3.6x for taz and 4.1x for Um Con Price A large number of people reporting the same issues could be fixed by firmware Best performance you need to use UM filament +30% to +50% to cost Anyone out there with a UM3 or s5 want to weigh in on this topic? I print mostly toys and dodads in PLA, ASA, ABS

Can you tell me the total number of hour of use or meters of filament

I am closing on my home the week of the 26th if you still have it after then PM me.

Can you post a screen shot of the number of hours for the printer

Use the advance settings of PVA only for interface layer I used to burn 5 - 7 rolls of PVA a month now I am down to 2.

I Said "matching filament" because I want a hit print and forget, I currently have a Excel spread sheet showing months of work for Filament XXX printing at YYY with ZZZ settings rinse and repeat for about 40 different filaments with two of my printers, for my Taz I didn't want to do that so I only use polymaker, which gives me a much smaller spreadsheet. if I do end up with a UM3 or UM S5 I would use Ultimaker so I didn't have to recreate months or years of print test change setting print second test change settings etc.... I know when my window guy calls and wants 1000 of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2963356 I will print them in Black polymaker polylite ASA I will use a bed temp of 92c a nozzle temp of 255c I have the exact speed, flow, retraction, fan speeds to make them come out perfect

I have my options narrowed down to three. Ultimaker 3, Ultimaker 5 or Taz Pro, this will be my fifth printer. I have a Taz 6 I love it, the only thing I don’t like about it is the dual extruder often nozzle two will drag in the model even knocking it free. The Taz Pro does have dual power lifting extruders Both the Um3 and Um5 have lifting nozzles, but it seems to be a bit more like a manual level to switch the nozzle selection, which would be fine for a single color printer but it seems to me it would cause delays with printing as each time the nozzle need to return to the switch position. I print a large number of items where I use PVA supports, so for me that is a negative. But the Taz uses a .5 Nozzle which to me is too large, (while I can change the nozzle size, I still have the drag issue) I don’t know anyone that has a Ultimaker so I don’t have firsthand experience with the UM but it has a great deal of good reviews. The only downsize I can think of would be the aft fore mentioned nozzle switch delay and the price of the matching filament. I am looking for opinions about the switch time and if you think it raises the print time, and if the switch is a durable design? Is the Bondtech upgrade worth the cost.

Any of them upgraded to dual extruders? or Bondtech

Thank you for your input that is one vote for the UM3, I'll pass on the Um2go if I wanted a printer I need to mod I could get 5 Ender 3's and put every upgrade part on them and still be cheaper then the UM S5 but I have been there and done that I'll wait for the movie, I'm 50 tiny screws to loose and even smaller measurements don't make me happy.

I have posted this on similar forums I am only looking for first hand reviews please. I don’t consider myself an expert but I currently have four printers, I have owned seven and I am adding a fifth next month. Features I want Dual extruders, Repeatability, reliability, and high tolerances. I print PLA 70%, PETG 20% and ABS+ others 5% While I do have commercial contracts to design and print items, I don’t do it for profit it just keeps me in filament. I love my Taz 6 I have every tool head they make, and I will shout from the mountain tops that the only fails I have had with it where my fault. (why don’t I use this one you might ask because the second nozzle drags and dribbles and IMHO a .05 is just too big a nozzle for my moving parts, plus screen season is coming up and my Taz will be printing 24x7 to get out orders at 40 pairs per build plate) I hated my MK3 IMHO to call it merely garbage was an insult to garbage I returned it (and no it was not a kit) What do I want in the next printer? Open box, cut zip ties load filament and hit Go. I already have three printers to tinker with I don’t need another one. 60% of my prints have motion or moving parts hence my request for high Tolerance. I have my options narrowed down to a Taz pro, Um3 or UM s5 or a Raise3d Pro2 I don’t mind the upfront cost I due care about the in many cases the triple the filament cost. For instance, when my customer calls for 1000 of thing:2963356 I know it will cost me X I will charge him Y and the profit will buy me four rolls of hatch box to play with. Questions I am about to start printing color Lithopanes using some photoshop/gimp tricks and CMYK PLA the .06 will be great for that Taz and R3d P2 all have lifting nozzle, the UM3/ UM S5 have dual. So, if you won 5k in the lottery which printer would you get?