Belezeebub

I picked up a Pro-bono print job he wants 100 fidget spinners at fifty-two grams of filament each. Personally, I use only UM filament in my S5 but this client just cannot afford that cost, I am already donating my labor and print time, he would like me to use Matter Hackers Build series filament, I understand why but it is my printer. UM filament is 49.99 for 750G so .0666 a gram (let’s call it 7 cents) $3.64 each MH filament is 19.99 for 1000G so .019 a gram (let’s call it 2 cents) $1.04 each Has anyone used MHBS in a UM3 or S5, I am making zero profit on this job it is for a give-a-way at a local school, while I am nice (some of the time) I don't want to trash my printer, if I got back and tell him know on the MHBS I am sure he will walk.

I can start and monitor prints from my home network but now I want to poke a hole in my firewall so I can start prints remotely, anyone know what port or range or ports S5 uses for My cloud. I'll toss it on my DMZ if I have to just as a test.

I'll toss it on my S5 when I get home tonight, the file looks easy to print

Have you considered buying a replacement Shell from UM or EB and gluing it together? a quick search I see the Um2 and UM2 clone shells for under 200 bucks including shipping.

Both the Solex and the CC Red are 300 bucks I want to print some door signs with glow in the dark on my S5 anyone got a suggestion for a filament and Hotend would be best? I am leaning towards the CC red and ColotFabb GloweFill, the CC red is ruby but the Solex is just harden steel UM Core https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/ultimaker-print-core-cc-060mm-red-build-core/sk/M54G9NHT Solex Core https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/hardcore-pro-7/sk/M6WDRLK6 Filament https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/colorfabb-glowfill-3.00mm/sk/M5ML5Y2R

I am caught up on my orders now it is time to play Anyone have good settings for lithophane on the S5? I found a method for printing Color lithophane by using CMYB (I am going to use White for black) and I want to try it.

I am running Negative and the adjustments helped slightly within margin of error if you ask me because the last ten items I tried to print are all fused

ARGH!!!!!!!!! Tried printing at .15 and .2 20% infill Pattern Triangles Zhop enabled speed 30 No Support No Adhesion Infil skin wall and jerk at 30 or lower, I am using -. -.04, and-.05 for my expansion I dropped the extruder 5c I changed the first layer to 100 not 1.05 Line width is has been tried at .35 and .4 Tried, all three of my .4 nozzles Tried my .25 nozzle Imported Smithy’s profile and tried his I only use PLA and Tough PLA and Only Ultimaker branded I used an Exacto knife and thin metal blades to reach between the petals and cubes all I did was cut my fingers All plus ten more fused

Any Chance you would be willing to export your profile and post it so I can take a look

I only use UM filament I think you are running a different version of cura a few of those settings I don't see on 4.3.0 but I am running in expert and looking for them.

Still having issues with items being fuzzed together, I did have a question about Slicing Tolerance= Exclude the only settings I have are exclusive, middle and inclusive, also you suggested a - Horizontal expansion but Cymon suggested a positive one? I have my Infil skin wall and jerk at 30 or lower, I am using -.04 for my expansion and I dropped the extruder 5c I changed the first layer to 100 not 1.05 my line width is has been tried at .35 and .4 Printing at .15 20% infill Pattern Triangles Zhop enabled speed 30 No Support No Adhesion I tried to print Kobayashi Fidget Cube - Fat Hinge in dual color it is hopelessly fused together. I tried to print Fidget cube High Quality hinge by Wultz again fused like Hydrogen in the SUN I am going to drop in my .25 and try again Never Mind I am an Id10T I only applied the settings to one nozzle I am trying it again

I am currently printing a 3 day job I'll post screen shots of my next calibration

When I replace my nozzles it will blather about this configuration is not calibrated, so I run the calibration (see attached) I can move the calibration in .5 increments but .1 would be much closer to what I need.

I know this is going to be a face palm stupid question but can I input numbers smaller then +/- .5 my S5 is off by maybe .1 I only seem to be able to adjust in .5 units

I am upgrading to the Pro this month my S5 has a top that works very well just putting out feelers make me an offer (sorry US shipping only unless there is one hell of a reason) I'll take it apart so I can be sent flat packed and put bubble wrap between the sheets Make me an offer The Top has a fan and a small filter plus and external power supply for the fan. The Front opens for easy access

Anything that is my design I post on Thingiverse, any item I print for a customer I sign an NDR on but I can share the ones I made. Thing 3069317, Thing 3908122 (I am making these for a local business they need 50 of them once I get the cut out correct and add room for all the screws and plus) Thing 3867477 might be useful here. I am not a designer I just dabble in tinkercad. I have made Holders for IR buds for work, Channel to mount ladder rack, Video camera mounts for my bosses house all in tinkercad I hope to use something better soon.

I won't give you my answer instead I'll direct you to someone that has done far more testing Look up on youtube CNC Kitchen

The Source of the burn looks like the Y/Z axis before I would do anything I would find the reason for the burn to start with, well made electrics parts don't short out like that without a reason (most of the time) so just replacing the board could release the magic blue smoke again. Just from the photo looks like a cap blew and maybe one or more of the stepper drivers

My Company does use Ultimaker sure it is only slightly more then a hobby and all profits only goes towards buying me more filament to play with but I do earn money from my printer, I do claim it on my taxes and I am already planning on getting the new S5 upgrades in Oct. (My story so far) I am on my 6th 3d Printer now, its an S5 I plan on updating to the Pro shortly, I got into this as a business by accident. I recently purchased a new home; it was a big fixer upper. When the local window guy came out to replace the windows, I was sitting at the table working on my I3 Mk3 he asked me “what is that” we talked for a few minutes. He asked if I could make something for him, I said I would try, he rummaged in the back of his truck, he pulled out a mangled plastic part, he explained “ This is a window screen clip for aluminum windows, the company no longer exists, if someone needs a clip I have to sell them for 5 bucks each used” I looked at it spent 20 minutes in tinkercad and had a proto-type with great creative license because I had to basically guess what it looked like when it was new and still worked. 800 clips later it’s a business, I make proto-types and engineering samples, I do custom print orders with a few rules, 1. I will not print items downloaded from a website it must be your own item, and if I find the item object able I will not print it (I turned down an order for a very large multipart adult toy “gag gift” this year I made enough for the S5 and most of the pro upgrade cost. All in my spare time

Just incase people wanted to know what I was printing, its a name plate for my new PC build (not finished yet) I am in the process of designing 3d printed covers for the case and shrouds for all of the wiring https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3515856

I have central heat and AC so my room temp only varies by maybe two degrees, this is the same model printed from the same filament, on the same printer I didn't adjust the print cores I just lowered the temp 5 degrees for nozzle and plate

Yes it is my S5 while I did show two different colors I have ran 9 rolls of this Um black PLA through my printer since purchasing it, and only after the new firmware did I start having this issue, I am printing a new example at -5 temp it should be done in 4 hours, it could also be a nozzle issue I might have installed the left AA in the right side which technically shouldn't make a difference but one is much newer then the other.

Black new firmware noticed the curling and holes red old firmware I am going to drop my temps back 5 each on hot end and build plate and try again.

Thank you

Well Bad news The cleaning service sent a new person and she cleaned up my work shop and tosses out some "trash' off my desk including my Calibration card anyone want to tell me how thick it is supposed to be and I'll just use a feeler gauge.