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  1. Hi there, thanks for answering. The offset is for the X-Axis: 10 mm to the right, Y-Axis: 2.5 mm to the back (about). Yes, the checkbox "Origin at center" is un-checked (empty). BUT: I just got an idea, what could have caused the offset. Some time ago I checked the accuracy of measures of my prints and found them slightly to small. So I increased the "Steps per Unit" for all axis. Original values were: M92 X78.74 Y78.74 Z200.00 E836.00 New values are: M92 X79.38 Y79.86 Z200.00 E854.00 I guess by changing the "Steps per Unit" I have messed with the center-position as well, right?
  2. Hi guys, when I load #.stl files into Cura they appear right at the center of Curas print bed, but when I start real printing, there is an offset from center of my Ultimaker Original. For big prints there is a risk of going outside the printable area. How to correct that, i.e. synchronize center of print-bed for both, Cura and UMO? Regards Uwe
  3. Hi Guys, after some days of hard and perfect work recently, my printer unfortunately failed today. I was printing a 3h job in PLA when after about 75% suddenly the display of my UMO+ controller started to show random symbols and even some nonsense clutter. Short after I noticed that, it stopped printing completely and the head moved to home-position (X,Y). I use Cura 3.5.1 and have just after that fault updated the UMO-firmware to the actual version (March, 2018). At present I run the same print again while crossing my fingers. Any ideas as to what can cause a fault like that? Regards from Germany, Uwe
  4. Hi, It's me again, I found the mistake myself. The little wooden plunger, that is supposed to hit the lever of the micro-switch was for some reason misaligned. Plunger and lever did meet for just a fraction of a milimeter at best, sometimes they didn't meet at all. I don't know what happened but it seems the plywood cover at the back of the heatbed, of which the plunger is a part, moved away from the backwall of the Ultimaker. I couldn't find e cure for that, so instead I put a 3mm distance-plate between backwall and switch. That made the switch move 3mm towards the centerline of the plunger. Problem solved! Regards, Uwe
  5. Hi guys, as of today my Ultimaker original+ shows Z-Axis problems. It's no new machine, in fact I have printed many parts without problems. Since this morning, when the head moves to "Home" at start of printing, it seems to not correctly detect "Home" for the Z-Axis. It hits the top position fairly hard and most unnerving, it moves downwards right after and making a real terrible noise like some broken gearbox. That noise is really bad! It won't stop until I hit the main switch to shut it off! Same happens, when I choose "Auto Home" from the controller manue. What could be wrong? Please help! Regards, Uwe
  6. Sorry for answering late! I've been offline the whole weekend. Yes, it seems to have been a cable problem. Though I didn't really find a fault, after I checked all cable and pushed and pressed everywere. Suddenly it was OK again. Thanks for helping! Regards Uwe
  7. Hi guys, I haven't printed for some weeks, but last time I did, it worked just fine. However, today when I start up my Ultimaker Original+, the bedheating doesn't work anymore! I tried different ways: normal print, preheat bed from menue, preheat PLA etc. NO succsess. I do not get any error message at the blue screen. The temperature just won't rise and the bed stay's cool. Any ideas, please!!! Regards Uwe
  8. Hi guys, my only way to speed up getting prints from the heated bed is putting the glas plate in the fridge. I hate the procedure and the wife hates me doing it From my electronic hobbies I know spray cans, that provide cool air (or some kind of gas anyway). Did anyone try those? I really don't like to remove the plate every time. And just wait for it to cool down by itself is really waisting time. What do you think?
  9. Thanks for clarifying that. I finally took a different path though. As my LED-stripes turned out to be 12V, I had to use some hardware (LM7812) to adapt it anyway. So I connected it to VCC2 (+24V) at Pin1/J15 (PWM/LED) and to GND /-24V at Pin3/J9. Both pins were unused at my board and easy to access. I use a little switch to control the lights. Have a nice sunday, Uwe
  10. Thanks for that, one question still: When I start the firmware-builder and choose the Ultimaker Original+ printer, I get a lot of alternatives to change in the lines below, but I can't find an LED option to choose! Is the LED-option built into the generator as standard? Uwe
  11. Hi Guys, I would like to connect an LED-strip to the LED-PWM outlet of my mainboard. I'm using a newly assembled Ultimaker Original+. It's the red-marked port at the below picture, I'm talking about: I just checked the output and it seems, the port is low by default. I measure 1.0-1.3V (digital instrument). So how ist the outlet controlled? There is no function at the Ulticontroller as far as I can tell. How do I get current to that port? Regards Uwe
  12. Hi Geert, Thanks very much for making me understand! I have now reached an acceptable result and I didn't even have to get the plate closer to the nozzle. What I changed was, reduce the first layer to 100 (stupid me I started with 300). I also reduced print speed for first layer down to 20 mm/s and lastly I increased the flow to 110%. I think I can live with that result now. Once again thanks for helping! Uwe
  13. I have done a short test print with flow increased to 110% but with same bed-leveling like before. Result was a little better but not good enough. Now I will do a new trial with reduced distance. We'll see. Regards, Uwe
  14. Thanks for trying to help, but my problem is not the letters! It's the visible lines on the surface. Those I need to get rid of. Regards, Uwe
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