Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by mhotze

  1. I recently switched to Cura 2.7, and am glad to see the continuous improvement of the software with regard to how it is handling dual extrusion setup. Thanks for that effort! An idea to further improve is the less intuitive (and hence error-prone) handling of temperature profiles. As I more or less tried to deduce, I think the actual temperature used is a combination of settings: Print Core & Material + Profile + Default settings These are all stored for both cores in a single setting file. So in the end this is quite cumbersome when changing material, changing cores, use settings of
  2. Ah, so I guess replacement screws which are longer than the original screws that are already there? Again, very nice! Easier to mount as well compared to my design. Would you be willing to share your design?
  3. I've recently printed a very large and flat ABS part, see picture below using the winning adhesion method (see my previous post with the link): I was actually surprised to see there was no warping at all, the model stuck very well to the heat bed. After it popped off when the build plate cooled down, the model was even bending upward in the center a millimetre or so, so weirdly enough, it had some kind of inverse warping. No clue as to why this happened.
  4. That looks cool!! I wonder how the hinges are helt in their position. Looks like sort of a clamping mechanism? Does that work well enough to keep them in position?
  5. Could not find this in release notes of 2.5. Is it in?
  6. I agree. I will discuss this with "the powers that be" Oohoops. For me a lesson to have a look at the release notes before upgrading. Well... I wonder if I would have noticed. It's this line I think, in retrospect right? "Initial layer printing temperature. The initial and final printing temperature settings have been fine-tuned for higher quality results." I also just found out about the +5deg change when going to Cura 2.4. I noticed considerable oozing after the first prime poop going to the brim, which I did not recall seeing before. I first thought it to be a setting issue. Double
  7. Cool! Now let's see if some hybrid of the 3 designs will pop-up Update here from my door: it's still a pleasure to work with, I did not have to adjust the prime positions or anything.
  8. I'm aware of that and all effort on Cura appreciated. I'm tempted to help, a bit off-topic, but I wonder if Cura is 100% a community effort. I think it's hugely promoted by Ultimaker, it came with my UM3, which a paid >>3k for. I think that's the underlying reason for some frustration, but I'm open to help as well. Does Ultimaker hire on project basis ?
  9. Just upgraded to 2.4 yesterday, and noticed this issue right away. Thanks for the workaround.
  10. I tend to believe warping is mainly an adhesion problem, and to lesser degree a settings issue. I've compared bed adhesion methods (here) and went for the best solution, all prints came out fine since (read for about a week since my test). For both ABS and PLA. What do you use for adhesion? Bare Glass?
  11. "Maximum Fan Speed The Speed at which the fans spin on the minimum layer time. The fan speed gradually increases between the regular fan speed and the maximum fan speed when the treshold is hit." What? Reading. Reading again. And again. Does not help much. What is Cura trying to tell me? Fans spinning on minimum layer time? Fans spin on electricity. And I guess until minimum layer time, fans spin at regular speed? Which treshold? And probably the fans go from regular to max after the treshold is reached, not at the instant some threshold is hit, and still there's something of a gradual incre
  12. ...or to better understand the way to get a grip on your settings. For me also to gain some more understanding (please give feedback with more info!) and suggest improvements. I seem to have lost some carefully tuned settings and I could not get my head around the way Cura handles settings. So here's an attempt to get things clarified. At least, up until the moment some ambiguity in how settings are used is solved and things are self-explanatory. One of the ambiguous things currently is for instance that temperature profiles can be stored both in Material settings and User Profiles. Some of
  13. Bump... thanks for pointing me from this post to this one, I now see with dual extrusion a collision happening when the second prime position is travelled to, the print head quite violently hits the prime poop already there. So now I wanted to have a look at changing the prime position, but I'm faced with this message: I think I need to change some setting, but as of now clueless where to change it.
  14. That would be very interesting, a contest between adhesive sheets, kapton, and ABS juice or 3d Lac. If someone is willing to test that... or send me some samples in generous quantity
  15. For the adventurous (use at own risk), here it is: http://catch22.eu/3dprinting/u3door/ Detailed instructions: here are some I could think of right now. Tricky part is finding the correct position to drill holes in the door itself (not too low, otherwise the extruder hits the clamps). There needs to be about 5mm play in z-direction between bottom clamps and top clamps, although the latches have slotted holes which aids well enough in drill hole accuracy I think. Best way to find the positions is to drill at least holes for the bottom and mount the bottom clamp, then find the correct position
  16. Ah, ok, that's what you mean. Yes, for my system as well it's possible to move the print head further than the default prime position. Does this mean that it's possible with default settings to protrude the door, or are custom settings needed in order to hit it? [edit: I see ultiajan already answered this question]
  17. Nope, I've checked today, there's about 5mm clearance.
  18. That's sharp! I've measured temperatures along the test (see my site here as well: http://catch22.eu/3dprinting/adhesion/), and what a coincidence, 66 temperature peaks coinciding with 66 layers and the top and bottom walls being 4 layers. The 4 blocks were printed clockwise in my case. The sensor on the print head is placed about 10mm height from the build plate. And I do use a door, but apparently, this still causes a temperature gradient. So you know what causes this? My door has slight draft (not sealing 100%), and the backside holes are sealed with ducktape (as can be seen on the picture)
  19. And the winner is....well... results published here (easier to edit and handle the pictures): http://catch22.eu/3dprinting/adhesion/ (it's 3D Lac) My site does not handle comments, please post here on Ultimaker Forum. Hope this sheds some lights on how well these methods compare (at least based on this single data point, and do note that these results might be different when printing for instance with PLA instead of ABS). So it could be beneficial if similar tests are shared as well!
  20. Ok, thanks, so this looks like 2 votes at least for wood glue. I see a Elmer's being mentioned quite a lot indeed, though Bison is the glue Brand here in NL, so have to go for that brand I think. First result of only using 3D Lac were impressive by the way (with PLA filament). I even had difficulty releasing the print from the bed after cooling down. Not sure yet if this is the same as the suggestion given to use hairspray for the test. Maybe too cautiously applied by myself, or the wrong brand (Andrelon Ultra Hold Fantastic Hairspray), I did not fare well yet trying that. Any other sug
  21. Thanks for your replies. Are you sure the door is hit? It looks like it's on the edge of hitting it, but did not notice it so far... I checked when designing the door, but to be honest, I also take out the door to catch the pre-priming dropping to prevent it from being dragged to the print area. Otherwise, I'd opt to give Ultimaker at least a suggestion to adjust the priming position. Is that prime position hard-coded in firmware??? It's quite silly otherwise to have the head stick out per default that much during the priming. The design is available in Onshape publicly, but since ther
  22. Since there's no official solution yet from Ultimaker, here's my solution for an UM 3 door I'd like to share. It is opened / closed by lifting ~5mm and pulling the bottom handle. The top handles have a grabbing mechanism and centers the door: Attention: the top handle / clamping mechanism needs to be sized and adjusted well, to prevent collision with the print head.
  23. An idea popped up to get a better, more objective comparison of different build plate adhesion solutions for ABS. The idea is simple: divide the build plate into four equal segments, and apply build plate adhesion solutions (glue, hairspray, juice and the like), and print four 3D objects on these segments. It's probably important to have the four segments on equal distance from the centre of the build plate, to rule out any non-uniform temperature. The results of the four prints can be quantitatively compared by measuring warping, but also qualitatively by visual comparison. So here's a
  24. So after checking various sites, here's some things I've found as well regarding warping. It does point into a shear force issue. There’s however quite some differences in the build plate temperature set-point and motivation for it to combat warping: Reduce warping by reducing the temperature difference between extrusion temperature and build plate: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/158-print-not-sticking-to-build-plate Set build plate temperature to the heat deflection temperature (HDT): https://bootsindustries.com/heat-bed-3d-printing/ Go for the glass transition temperature: https:/
  25. Idea: have stepper motor vents at backside plane instead of vent holes inside the chamber. This gives more thermal headroom for the stepper motors when mounting a front door (or even further enclosing the chamber). By the way, I measured so far motor temperatures below 60C in all scenarios so far, but not going to extremes either.
  • Create New...