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  1. Truth be told, the 5S is basically a UM3 with a far larger build area. So if you are happy with the UM3 and you want a larger build area then the 5S makes sense. However, if you you don't need the build area you may as well save your money and get a UM3.
  2. I think, given my experiences with my Ultimaker 3 there is a pattern with the launch of a new printer being relatively rough. I know for several months after the launch of the UM3 the documentation wasn't fully fleshed out. So the launch process is definitely an area where Ultimaker could improve. Cura is the best free product on the market and has been improving by leaps and bounds. It's arguably better than certain paid apps so I am confused about the complaints here. Granted multiplatform support always gets weird. Beyond that, I had a rough few initial months with my machine. However I am really happy with it. The biggest issue facing FDM at the moment is that, as a process it's reaching some upper limits. Unfortunately FDM's natural progression, polyjet, seems to be patented to heck, so it'll be interesting to see where Ultimaker goes from here.
  3. Thank you. For me frosted glass is good enough since it will have LEDs behind it and I need to diffuse the point light effect. However at the moment the criss-cross pattern of each layer is really dimming the LEDs.
  4. I am attempting to print a translucent part using Ultimaker Transparent PLA. However, due to the way Cura alternates infill direction my parts are coming out more opaque than they should. How do I stop Cura from alternating infill direction and instead have the infill the exact same on every layer? It's not a structural part so all I care about is it letting a good amount of light through. For context: Normally I would achieve this by printing the part on its side so that the natural print layers will achieve this but I can't do that for this particular part. Details: Cura 3.5, Ultimaker 3, Ultimaker Transparent PLA
  5. One tip for warping in the bottom layers on an Ultimaker. To get rid of that warping set the build plate temperature to 30C, then set the "Initial Layer Build Plate Temperature" to 60C. Doing this will also require you to use tape or some other form of adhesion method. For whatever reason the default print bed temperature settings for Ultimaker PLA have major issues. @SandervG this might be something you guys at UM might want to look into since I've run into it a lot when printing with UM PLA on my UM3. I've found a workaround, but admittedly using the UM adhesion tape is annoying, despite being effective.
  6. I think the issue with remote monitoring, is that to implement it in a relatively secure way would require a ton of resources from Ultimaker. They could allow remote access directly to the printer but that's a giant security headache waiting to happen. I suspect then, Ultimaker would want to follow the model of ChefSteps. Where ChefSteps Joule device connects to ChefSteps servers in the cloud, and then when you want to monitor your Joule, your app connects to ChefSteps servers and not directly to the Joule device. The problem with this approach is that it would require a bunch of developer resources, and by developer resources I'm not sure how many distributed systems/cloud engineers Ultimaker has on its staff, but I suspect it's not many given Ultimaker's area of focus. So they would likely have to do a bunch of hiring for a type of engineer that's not cheap to hire. P.S. You can already enable remote access in dev mode, but it's heavily discouraged for security reasons.
  7. I've gotta echo what's being said here about the MAC address. It is incredibly surprising that it's not on a sticker on the outside of the machine or at the very least, in an easy to access spot in the menu.
  8. You will need to heat it up to 55C for several hours (can go to 60, but I've found I ruin the spool when I go to 60). To do that you'll need an oven that can go that low, or better yet, take a food dehydrator and put the filament into that. I personally use this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008H2OEKK I used snippers to cut a spool sized hole in some of the grates. Beyond that, Ultimaker still doesn't have settings for PVB so it comes down to starting with PLA settings and figuring out the specifics from there with trial and error.
  9. The past few weeks it seems that my Ultimaker 3 has stopped reading the NFC chips in the filament I feed into it. This happens with both old filament and new filament. What steps can I take to troubleshoot this?
  10. Yay, and yeah I'm pretty sure the one I'm hoping for most (PolyMaker) manufactures their own, or at least they are closer to the manufacturer side than other filament makers simply because they offer materials I don't really see elsewhere
  11. So then, what I'm extrapolating here is that Ultimaker is working with a number of filament manufacturers to include Ultimaker profiles for their filament in a future update to Cura? Release date still TBD. The reason I'm extrapolating here is that from the filament manufacturer side of things I have been hearing whispers of how stringent Ultimaker's tests are. Not a bad thing since we want profiles to be reliable.
  12. Thank you for this, I'll add some tape since I'd really prefer not to replace my cable again My thought is that electrical tape will be what I should use here?
  13. Speaking of print head cables. If the print head cable breaks will it be easier to thread the replacement cable through the case? I know on the UM3 replacing the print head cable is a royal pain in the butt. Well, ideally the print head cable doesn't break in the first place but it seems to happen with heavy use it on the UM3.
  14. As a small time maker who owns a UM3, I'm clearly not in the target market for this printer, but even for small business and small enterprise the price seems to be pushing it. My armchair analysis is that while this printer is going to be amazing, at a $6000 price point it creates a big opening for competitors to come in at a lower price. P.S. where's my PVB profile in Cura :[
  15. My wishlist: Better maintenance support at launch. This has mostly been resolved for the UM3, but for the first few months after launch there weren't many official sources of documentation for maintaining the UM3. Even now I have to write to support/sales if I want a spare part, which is unwieldy. fbrc8.com has a spare part section for the UM3 but it's rather sparse. Better wire accessibility. I recently had to replace my print head cable and trying to thread that thing through was a nightmare. The UM3 seems to be built for ease of maintenance and modularity, so it was surprising how user unfriendly replacing the print head cable was. This is especially worrisome since it seems that the print head cable is one of those parts that might fail more often than others. Enclosed spool holder with a little area for silica packets. Humidity is my #1 enemy, especially when printing with PVA. Speaking of PVA, better options for cleaning the print cores would be nice. Even when printing under optimal conditions I find I have to do cold/hot pulls to clean out my BB core every few days. This takes a lot of time. Support for PVB. Yeah this is more a Cura thing, but it'd be nice to at least get a generic PVB profile in there. I've got something that mostly works using PLA as a base, but I suspect a real profile that's been fully vetted will improve quality by leaps and bounds. More reliability/ease of use. This is the big one, while the UM3 is still better than most printers, it's still got a long way to go before I would recommend it to even my less hands-on techy friends. Don't get me wrong, I love my UM3, but there's lots of room to improve
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