[UM3 Repeatable misprint]

There could be something wrong with the model... does this area show any irregularity in the Cura preview?

 

If not, a slight increase of the flow rate (maybe 2%) should solve the problem, or you could use the experimental "ironing" feature in cura.

[nylon absorbes water? PVA?]

12 minutes ago, P3D said:

 

Stiffer? That's not really my experience... in my experience, it becomes less stiff and more impact resistant after absorbing humidity.

 

 

I found some interesting Nylon degradation test results here: https://www.toray.jp/plastics/en/amilan/technical/tec_003.html 

I find this quite shocking, especially the extreme brittleness (total lack of impact resistance) the samples showed after only a year of exposure... 

 

Sorry, you are right... the word I was looking for was actually not "stif". What I wanted to say is that it would be stronger against breaking.

I'm not a native speaker, sorry 😉

[nylon absorbes water? PVA?]

The water absorbtion of nylon is a kind of double-edged sword:

 

Before printing, you don't want the material to absorb moisture. Because of the heating in the printcore, the absorbed water will create bubbles and give a bad surface, little holes and in the wors case clog your nozzle. 

So it's important for the priniting process to keep the nylon filament dry.

 

After printing, the model will absorb moisture out of the air and of course when it's put into water. But this does not affect the properties of the material in a negative way. It will make your model slightly stiffer more impact resistant. 

[Cura Basics Help Please]

Hi,

 

you can use the "per model settings" and then choose as specified settings for the third model "bottom thickness" and set it to 0.

 

 

[Looking to purchase Ultimaker 3 Extended, have questions]

Hi,

 

• you can always pause a print while printing on the screen live or through cura (if you have an active network connection to the printer of course). Once the print is paused, you can perform a firmware assisted material change and continue the print afterwards
• When you have a network connection (LAN or WiFi), you can monitor the print on the screen by the built in camera. Although you cant't monitor the filament, you can assume the extruded filament by the progress bar. But if you see in the camera that no more material is extruded, it's already too late to save your print.
• The Ultimaker 3 (Extended) comes completely pre-built and is ready to print out of the box. Although they are pre-calibrated from the ultimaker factory, it's recommended to run a build plate levelling and X/Y offset calibration at first. That shouldn't need longer than maybe 45 min.

[Splitting of Prints]

Did you recently update your slicer or changed the nozzle size?

[Massive jam of PLA between nozzle and print core - suggestions?]

I've had the same with PLA.

 

I couldn't even heat up the nozzles anymore because the material pulled out a cable on one of the printcores, which caused the UM to fail out immedeately after starting up. 

As I feared to damage anything with the heat gun, I decided to use a soldering iron to cut out the material piece for piece. I used a temperature regulated one to keep it hot enough to melt the PLA kind of fast but not so hot that it melts the other plastic parts of the print head when I accidently touched them.

 

So it was many hours of work and as soon as I could recover one part of the print head, I disassembled that one to get better reachability of the remaining PLA. 

Unfortunately I could only get one printcore out in the end by destroying it completely. But still better than having to buy a whole new print head assembly.

[UM3E Heater Error both cores]

Thanks for all of your help.

After taking the whole print head apart i found out that one soldering from the print head cable socket became loose after the ~6000h of printing which this machine has now. After resoldering it works again.

[UM3E Heater Error both cores]

Thanks for the answers.

I've checked the cable, it's pushed in finde. Also the fan isn't blocked at all.

 

I forgot to mention before:

The cores don't start heating at all. They remain at ambient temparature (the sensor says so and I also physically checked with a thermometer)for a little time and then the error message appears (I suppose because of there's something like a runtime error in the firmware when the temperature dosn't change).

 

Any other suggestions?

[UM3E Heater Error both cores]

Hi,

 

since yesterday I get Heater errors on my Ultimaker 3 Extended.

The errors occur in both slots and I have tried three different printcores. I have checked both connections of the printhead cable.

The print head cable has been replaced a couple of weeks ago so I don't think that this is the problem.

 

Does anyone have an idea what it could be?

 

Thanks!

[Printcore UM 3]

Hallo @thopiekar,

 

den 3DSolex Printcore gibt es auch mit der BB Geometrie. Meiner Meinung nach lohnt sich der 3DSolex Printcore schon alleine durch die auswechselbaren Düsen, was dir schon ab der ersten verstopften Düse Geld spart.

[Holes appear to be squished in the Z direction]

I don't know which density and how many layers you are using for the dense support interface, but unless the density is maybe 90%+, keep in mind that - especially when printing in such a hot environment - your layers will also sagg a little through the support and the support interface itself can also sagg through the normal support.

When you are looking for perfect, I can make two suggestions:

 

1) design the hole for 7 mm and use a drill bit or even better a reemer to drill it out - will give you a perfect dimension and the printed 7 mm hole helps to get it into the right space

 

2) will be pretty much trial and error - design  the top half of the hole as ellyptic shape, modify the measurements until you get the desired result

 

+ I think on both ways you'll be able to print without support in the hole, which I assume is a pain in the ass to get out of there

[terrible first and top layer]

Hi,

 

what material are you printing with? Which printer? Nozzle size etc...?

 

you could try to increase the flow rate.

[Curvature and different width in some layers]

1 hour ago, Smithy said:

Which profile/settings are you using, the default PLA material setting with the default Cura settings are working fine out of the box. 

 

When printing large parts with Ultimaker PLA, I lower the build plate temp to 40°C. Otherwise I get elephant feet and slight deformations.

But like @Smithy mentioned, the rest of the settings are pretty perfect.

[I have spent 30+ hours and cant get this thing to work help the noob]

You can get some great tips for bed adhesion at this topic:

 

They are usually suitable for different kinds of printers and materials.

 

Good luck ?

[Bending / Cracking / Warping during "tall" jobs.]

I'm printing nearly only ABS and had a lot of struggling with it at the beginning.

All the tips from @gr5 are very important to consider for printing ABS. You could also try turning the fan completely off (0%) and reducing your speed.

For me actually thick layers at a high temperature work the best for strong bonding and no clooging (245°C / 0,3 mm layer height / 0.8 nozzle).

When all your material is used up, I would give alternatives a try. I have made great experiences with the UM CPE and just the standard Cura settings.

Maybe buying a roll of that or the before mentioned Tough PLA is worth the investment instead of wasting all the bought ABS on failed prints ?

[I used genuine UM ABS for the first time and this is what happened]

Hi,

 

This looks like underextrusion. Make sure to clean your printcore often, maybe it's also worn out or "unfixable" partly clogged after that time and you need a new one.

For me the UM ABS always used to work fine with standard settings. When I use Formfutura ABS, I had to go down with the printing speed, otherwise it always used to look like your pictures when making long prints.

I figured out to reach higher speeds with Formfutura ABS with the Matchless Race nozzles by 3D Solex. With that setup (of course with some nozzle replacing), I'm printing about 3 kg Formfutura EasyFil ABS each week for the last 1.5 years on my UM3E with an success rate of maybe 80 - 85%.

[Dimensional accuracy model/print?]

Here are some design tips, that help you to achieve good precision with 3D printing.

Of course the values depend on your printer / material etc... that's something you can only find out by trying and playing.

 

- due to the nature of the data format STL, diameters and radii (no matter if inside or outside) get smaller during the data conversion. So you should design them a little bigger than desired, a couple of tenth millimeters, depending on the conversion resolution

 

- the bigger outside corners @SandervG mentioned get smoother, if you design them with a small radius (~1 mm)

 

- if you part has only one measurement that should be as exact as possible, try to orient that in Z. Thats for my experience the most accurate axis, though it can only print multiples of the layer height + the initial layer height

 

[Dual Extrusion isn´t printing outer walls after a couple of layers.]

42 minutes ago, Eisenhuth said:

Hey,

 

so it happend twice while I was using the prime tower and once without using the tower.
And the part I printed was perfectly shown in Cura, and all outer walls were supposed to be printed

 

Did the prime tower look well in the bad printed areas?

[Prints not printing properly.]

I would try playing around with the settings retraction extra prime amount and coasting...

[Dual Extrusion isn´t printing outer walls after a couple of layers.]

Hi,

 

some more information would be useful:

- Are you using a prime tower?

- Are the outer walls visible in the Cura preview?

[Tip: Bed adhesion]

I print large ABS objects for industrial purposes. So besides a good bed adhesion, downtime on the printer is also a big factor to me. That led me away from any glue or something similar on the printbed, as a wanted to save the time from continuous coating and cleaning of the buildplate. 

I use BuildTak with two Flexplates that I switch after every print, which is working great for me. I know they're pretty expensive, but if you take care of them they last pretty long. 

Taking care means whenever putting a new sheet on, making sure to get the correct distance. If the distance is to big, it won't adhere. If it's to close it adheres to good and the sheet will get damaged when you remove the print.

A good way is to level the bed an put a Z- Offset in. Then make test prints, slowly lowering your Z- Offset until you get the desired result.

One downside is that the active levelling of the UM3 doesn't really work well, as the surface is kind of soft and gives inconsistent results, so I just stay with manual levelling.

 

You don't really need it for PLA, although this also sticks like hell to it. Before removing a PLA print, you should heat the buildplate to around 40°C, otherwise you'll pretty sure damage the sheet.

 

P.S.: I don't hold any shares on BuildTak, just like that stuff so much that I thought it should be mentioned here ?

[Cura füllt Löcher unerwünschter weise]

Hi,

 

ich bin mir ziemlich sicher dass das Problem an der STL bzw. nativen CAD Datei liegt.

Ich kann sowohl in Cura als auch in Simplify3D das Problem reproduzieren, ergo hat es nichts mit den Cura Einstellungen zu tun. Wenn ich das Modell auf Netzfehler untersuche, werden die Kanten der runden Flächen markiert (siehe Bild).

 

Das Problem tritt bei "unsauberen" nativen CAD Dateien oder STL Exportfehlern auf. Prüfe mal, ob die native Datei als einzelner Körper "verschmolzen" ist, oder ob sich dahinter zwei sich überschneidende Körper verbergen. Auch sonstige "unsauberen" Konstruktionen können Probleme auslösen, z.B. ein automatischer Kanten- oder Flächenschließassistent.

 

Viel Erfolg!

 

 

[layer shifting ... different from the others]

Layer shifting is always a mechanical issue... I don't have an idea of any other settings than the already mentioned ones in cura have something to do with it.

You could switch the X and Y stepper to take a look if it's an issue with the stepper itself.

[PVA stops extruding about 5 min. after a perfect start]

Hi,

actually I haven't tried the 3dsolex BB Cores. But the AA matchless race are just awesome! Definitely worth the money plus the fact of cheaper nozzle replacement.