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DF-Werkzeugservice last won the day on October 21 2019

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  1. There could be something wrong with the model... does this area show any irregularity in the Cura preview? If not, a slight increase of the flow rate (maybe 2%) should solve the problem, or you could use the experimental "ironing" feature in cura.
  2. Sorry, you are right... the word I was looking for was actually not "stif". What I wanted to say is that it would be stronger against breaking. I'm not a native speaker, sorry 😉
  3. The water absorbtion of nylon is a kind of double-edged sword: Before printing, you don't want the material to absorb moisture. Because of the heating in the printcore, the absorbed water will create bubbles and give a bad surface, little holes and in the wors case clog your nozzle. So it's important for the priniting process to keep the nylon filament dry. After printing, the model will absorb moisture out of the air and of course when it's put into water. But this does not affect the properties of the material in a negative way. It will make your model slightly
  4. Hi, you can use the "per model settings" and then choose as specified settings for the third model "bottom thickness" and set it to 0.
  5. Hi, you can always pause a print while printing on the screen live or through cura (if you have an active network connection to the printer of course). Once the print is paused, you can perform a firmware assisted material change and continue the print afterwards When you have a network connection (LAN or WiFi), you can monitor the print on the screen by the built in camera. Although you cant't monitor the filament, you can assume the extruded filament by the progress bar. But if you see in the camera that no more material is extruded, it's already too late to save your prin
  6. Did you recently update your slicer or changed the nozzle size?
  7. I've had the same with PLA. I couldn't even heat up the nozzles anymore because the material pulled out a cable on one of the printcores, which caused the UM to fail out immedeately after starting up. As I feared to damage anything with the heat gun, I decided to use a soldering iron to cut out the material piece for piece. I used a temperature regulated one to keep it hot enough to melt the PLA kind of fast but not so hot that it melts the other plastic parts of the print head when I accidently touched them. So it was many hours of work and as soon as I could rec
  8. Thanks for all of your help. After taking the whole print head apart i found out that one soldering from the print head cable socket became loose after the ~6000h of printing which this machine has now. After resoldering it works again.
  9. Thanks for the answers. I've checked the cable, it's pushed in finde. Also the fan isn't blocked at all. I forgot to mention before: The cores don't start heating at all. They remain at ambient temparature (the sensor says so and I also physically checked with a thermometer)for a little time and then the error message appears (I suppose because of there's something like a runtime error in the firmware when the temperature dosn't change). Any other suggestions?
  10. Hi, since yesterday I get Heater errors on my Ultimaker 3 Extended. The errors occur in both slots and I have tried three different printcores. I have checked both connections of the printhead cable. The print head cable has been replaced a couple of weeks ago so I don't think that this is the problem. Does anyone have an idea what it could be? Thanks!
  11. Hallo @thopiekar, den 3DSolex Printcore gibt es auch mit der BB Geometrie. Meiner Meinung nach lohnt sich der 3DSolex Printcore schon alleine durch die auswechselbaren Düsen, was dir schon ab der ersten verstopften Düse Geld spart.
  12. I don't know which density and how many layers you are using for the dense support interface, but unless the density is maybe 90%+, keep in mind that - especially when printing in such a hot environment - your layers will also sagg a little through the support and the support interface itself can also sagg through the normal support. When you are looking for perfect, I can make two suggestions: 1) design the hole for 7 mm and use a drill bit or even better a reemer to drill it out - will give you a perfect dimension and the printed 7 mm hole helps to get it into the right spac
  13. Hi, what material are you printing with? Which printer? Nozzle size etc...? you could try to increase the flow rate.
  14. When printing large parts with Ultimaker PLA, I lower the build plate temp to 40°C. Otherwise I get elephant feet and slight deformations. But like @Smithy mentioned, the rest of the settings are pretty perfect.
  15. You can get some great tips for bed adhesion at this topic: They are usually suitable for different kinds of printers and materials. Good luck ?
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