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DF-Werkzeugservice

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DF-Werkzeugservice last won the day on July 3

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About DF-Werkzeugservice

  • Birthday October 19

Personal Information

  • Field of Work
    Engineering
  • Country
    DE
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 3

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  1. DF-Werkzeugservice

    UM3E Heater Error both cores

    Thanks for all of your help. After taking the whole print head apart i found out that one soldering from the print head cable socket became loose after the ~6000h of printing which this machine has now. After resoldering it works again.
  2. DF-Werkzeugservice

    UM3E Heater Error both cores

    Thanks for the answers. I've checked the cable, it's pushed in finde. Also the fan isn't blocked at all. I forgot to mention before: The cores don't start heating at all. They remain at ambient temparature (the sensor says so and I also physically checked with a thermometer)for a little time and then the error message appears (I suppose because of there's something like a runtime error in the firmware when the temperature dosn't change). Any other suggestions?
  3. DF-Werkzeugservice

    UM3E Heater Error both cores

    Hi, since yesterday I get Heater errors on my Ultimaker 3 Extended. The errors occur in both slots and I have tried three different printcores. I have checked both connections of the printhead cable. The print head cable has been replaced a couple of weeks ago so I don't think that this is the problem. Does anyone have an idea what it could be? Thanks!
  4. DF-Werkzeugservice

    Printcore UM 3

    Hallo @thopiekar, den 3DSolex Printcore gibt es auch mit der BB Geometrie. Meiner Meinung nach lohnt sich der 3DSolex Printcore schon alleine durch die auswechselbaren Düsen, was dir schon ab der ersten verstopften Düse Geld spart.
  5. DF-Werkzeugservice

    Holes appear to be squished in the Z direction

    I don't know which density and how many layers you are using for the dense support interface, but unless the density is maybe 90%+, keep in mind that - especially when printing in such a hot environment - your layers will also sagg a little through the support and the support interface itself can also sagg through the normal support. When you are looking for perfect, I can make two suggestions: 1) design the hole for 7 mm and use a drill bit or even better a reemer to drill it out - will give you a perfect dimension and the printed 7 mm hole helps to get it into the right space 2) will be pretty much trial and error - design the top half of the hole as ellyptic shape, modify the measurements until you get the desired result + I think on both ways you'll be able to print without support in the hole, which I assume is a pain in the ass to get out of there
  6. DF-Werkzeugservice

    terrible first and top layer

    Hi, what material are you printing with? Which printer? Nozzle size etc...? you could try to increase the flow rate.
  7. DF-Werkzeugservice

    Curvature and different width in some layers

    When printing large parts with Ultimaker PLA, I lower the build plate temp to 40°C. Otherwise I get elephant feet and slight deformations. But like @Smithy mentioned, the rest of the settings are pretty perfect.
  8. DF-Werkzeugservice

    I have spent 30+ hours and cant get this thing to work help the noob

    You can get some great tips for bed adhesion at this topic: They are usually suitable for different kinds of printers and materials. Good luck ?
  9. DF-Werkzeugservice

    Bending / Cracking / Warping during "tall" jobs.

    I'm printing nearly only ABS and had a lot of struggling with it at the beginning. All the tips from @gr5 are very important to consider for printing ABS. You could also try turning the fan completely off (0%) and reducing your speed. For me actually thick layers at a high temperature work the best for strong bonding and no clooging (245°C / 0,3 mm layer height / 0.8 nozzle). When all your material is used up, I would give alternatives a try. I have made great experiences with the UM CPE and just the standard Cura settings. Maybe buying a roll of that or the before mentioned Tough PLA is worth the investment instead of wasting all the bought ABS on failed prints ?
  10. DF-Werkzeugservice

    I used genuine UM ABS for the first time and this is what happened

    Hi, This looks like underextrusion. Make sure to clean your printcore often, maybe it's also worn out or "unfixable" partly clogged after that time and you need a new one. For me the UM ABS always used to work fine with standard settings. When I use Formfutura ABS, I had to go down with the printing speed, otherwise it always used to look like your pictures when making long prints. I figured out to reach higher speeds with Formfutura ABS with the Matchless Race nozzles by 3D Solex. With that setup (of course with some nozzle replacing), I'm printing about 3 kg Formfutura EasyFil ABS each week for the last 1.5 years on my UM3E with an success rate of maybe 80 - 85%.
  11. DF-Werkzeugservice

    Dimensional accuracy model/print?

    Here are some design tips, that help you to achieve good precision with 3D printing. Of course the values depend on your printer / material etc... that's something you can only find out by trying and playing. - due to the nature of the data format STL, diameters and radii (no matter if inside or outside) get smaller during the data conversion. So you should design them a little bigger than desired, a couple of tenth millimeters, depending on the conversion resolution - the bigger outside corners @SandervG mentioned get smoother, if you design them with a small radius (~1 mm) - if you part has only one measurement that should be as exact as possible, try to orient that in Z. Thats for my experience the most accurate axis, though it can only print multiples of the layer height + the initial layer height
  12. Did the prime tower look well in the bad printed areas?
  13. DF-Werkzeugservice

    Prints not printing properly.

    I would try playing around with the settings retraction extra prime amount and coasting...
  14. Hi, some more information would be useful: - Are you using a prime tower? - Are the outer walls visible in the Cura preview?
  15. DF-Werkzeugservice

    Tip: Bed adhesion

    I print large ABS objects for industrial purposes. So besides a good bed adhesion, downtime on the printer is also a big factor to me. That led me away from any glue or something similar on the printbed, as a wanted to save the time from continuous coating and cleaning of the buildplate. I use BuildTak with two Flexplates that I switch after every print, which is working great for me. I know they're pretty expensive, but if you take care of them they last pretty long. Taking care means whenever putting a new sheet on, making sure to get the correct distance. If the distance is to big, it won't adhere. If it's to close it adheres to good and the sheet will get damaged when you remove the print. A good way is to level the bed an put a Z- Offset in. Then make test prints, slowly lowering your Z- Offset until you get the desired result. One downside is that the active levelling of the UM3 doesn't really work well, as the surface is kind of soft and gives inconsistent results, so I just stay with manual levelling. You don't really need it for PLA, although this also sticks like hell to it. Before removing a PLA print, you should heat the buildplate to around 40°C, otherwise you'll pretty sure damage the sheet. P.S.: I don't hold any shares on BuildTak, just like that stuff so much that I thought it should be mentioned here ?
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