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Reznor9

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About Reznor9

  • Birthday 05/27/1980

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  1. update. Ran the temp tower test using temps beteeen 220-180 in 5 degree intervals. The temp of 180 seems to produce the best bridging but still has a slight sagging of the initial passes. I had my extrusion multiplier at 1.5 and turned it down to 1.0 and ran the test again but came out with basically the same results. Should I keep going lower on the. Extrusion multiplier or is there another setting I should be looking at?
  2. Im printing in PLA using the default settings for the UM2 in Simplify3d and its not printing bridging very well.. seems to go very slow and it oozes all over the place. Im currently printing a temp tower to see if there is any improvement with variations in temp... so far Ive tried turing fans 100% on bridging, increasing speed by 100% on bridging and Ive activated apply bridging settings to perimeter and that didn't seem to fix. Id also like to add that I have upgraded my feeder to a Bondtech QR and Ive upgraded the firmware as instructed by bondtech. Thanks in advance
  3. Just wanted to update. I haven't yet received the new bowden tube, but I did receive my new Olsson block, which came with a new teflon spacer and spring and swapped everything out. It seems like the clogging issue has been resolved. Thanks for all your help guys.
  4. I have in the past printed with a lot of ABS before I decided to change over to PLA.. Although I have changed out a lot of parts, to my knowledge I haven't changed out the teflon spacer... I recently ordered a new Olsson Block kit from amazon because I wanted to have a spare block and some spare nozzles... Unlike the previous kit,I believe this one comes with the teflon spacer. I should get it this coming week when I get my new bowden tube... Ill probably just swap out all the parts again and see if the problem persists. Thank you for your input.
  5. Thanks. I just put in an order for a new bowden tube. I replaced it about a year ago, but to be honest i dont like it because its only semi transparent and makes it difficult to see how easily the filament is moving. Hopefully it has an impact and solved the issue.
  6. I purchased a used ultimaker 2 and am at a loss for what can be wrong with it. The prints will under extrude and the nozzle will eventually clog and ruin the print. Ive done the following thinking there was a weak link in the chain. Ive upgraded the feeder to the Bondtech QR Upgrade kit. Ive swapped out my nozzle setup with a WINSINN Olsson Heater Block Hotend and replaced the heating element because I broke it when I was trying to remove it from the original block. Ive done all these things attempting to figure out what the issue might be but now Im at a loss. What could it be? Doesn't matter if Im using ABS or PLA, The nozzle seems to constantly clog at the start of the print. If for some reason the print is successful, the nozzle will 100% of the time need to be atomic cleaned or else it will not extrude at all during the start of the next print. Can anyone offer any assistance?
  7. Kinda disappointed with the lack of response to this. Anyhow I diagnosed it myself since there was no community assistance. In case anyone else has a similar issue I’ll post my findings. It appears it was a faulty feed tube that was causing friction while feeding the filament to the hotend and ultimately would cause underexteusion and nozzle jams. I replaced my PTFE tube with a new one and I haven’t had any issues since. I performed 3 abs test prints at .1 mm layer height and they all came out beautifully.
  8. I had to wiggle mine back and forth(as in clockwise and counter clockwise). Then I gave it a good amount of pressure in the right direction and it came loose. Unfortunately my temp sensor was forever jammed in the block and broke off inside. I couldn’t remove the broken end and had to just replace the block with an olsson block.
  9. when the machine works like it is supposed to, it produces lovely prints like this. This was done using the same ABS at the same temps and layer height. The areas that appear a little rough were where the supports were removed.
  10. I had this issue for a while, so thinking it was just a clog I was constantly removing the block and cleaning out the nozzle when it would appear that the atomic pulls weren't doing the trick. When the problem persisted I decided I would swap over to an olsson block and installed the .4mm nozzle... also swapped out with a new temp sensor since the old one refused to separate from the block and broke off. Im using IC3D black ABS filament at 250 nozzle, 95 bed. printing at .1 layer height at 40mm/s Im not sure why but the problem continues. The only other things I can think of are either its a problem with the extruder or the feed tube. I have also noticed that every other print seems to jam at startup and require me to hit the change filament option... when I reload the filament the following print starts up fine. Could anyone offer any advice?
  11. Ive been searching this issue via google and Ive found this is just how the UM prints infill as many others also suffer from the same issue... the infill speeds seem to be set so fast that they don't have time to extrude properly. I already have my default speeds set to 40mm in S3D which should in turn slow down the infill as well but the infill pattern is still bad. Luckily is hasn't effected my outer surface and still produces beautiful prints but Im guessing the parts aren't as strong as they would be with proper support.
  12. (Info on print, Im using IC3D ABS and heating the nozzle to 250. Print is set to .1 layer height, fan setting to 15%... sliced in S3D) I thought maybe it was due to a clog in the nozzle so after several atomic method pulls it continued to be an issue. So I then thought maybe I would swap my stock nozzle over to the newer Olsson Block. I did so and screwed on a .4 nozzle... re-leveled the bed and begun the print. Same issue. So I then thought maybe my temp sensor is bad and it isn't heating the nozzle to the correct temp. I replaced it with a brand new temp sensor... no change. Infill still seems to print very thin as if under extruding... but the walls of the print and upper and lower surfaces are damn perfect, with no signs of under-extrusion. Does anyone know what might be the issue? This seems to only be an issue as far as I can tell at .1 layer height and below... as at .15 layer height it seems to print the infill just fine. here is an example of the infill at .1 layer height within a calibration cube. As you can see the infill pattern is broken and doesn't connect in several areas. Any ideas why this is happening?
  13. third print came out just as good, and just as bad.. the same ear was messed up... maybe its the way its sliced when at that layer height? Ill have to look at it or when parts go thin and to a point on prints i might have to change up the layer thickness at the top? I dunno.. Im really new to all these settings. But I do appreciate the help Ive gotten so far... my prints are far better than when I started using this thing a week or two ago.
  14. more than halfway through with my 3rd test print of this piece. I kept all the settings the same, but I upped the print speed to 50mm/sec, brought the infill down to 20% and made custom set points to increase and decrease percentage of fan the piece gets according to overhangs and the ears. Hopefully the print comes out perfectly. Ill know in another hour or two.
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