BalsaMichel

Thank´s for sharing this!! I have done it now with my Ulti 2+, Bondtech extruder and the original feeder stepper. I have reduced jerk to 10mm, acceleration to 500mm/sec2 and also maximum speed to 150mm/sec. The "elephant printhead" runs much smoother than expected and my TPU printing issues seem to be gone. It´s important to build this thing stiff enough because this combination has really a lot of power and would bend the vertikal plate when nozzle is clogged for example. Although this was done for two 15-20 hour TPU print jobs, I don´t think I will convert this back to bowden extruder. Ulti 2+ are not expensive anymore on ebay an I would rather buy a second one for the standard jobs. Micha

Thanks! I am not yet sure if this will work with PETG. A bit experimental 🙂

...and I like it 🙂 Edges and connection profiles are PETG, anti slip triangles are TPU95. The rest is a balsa core and some carbon. Pressplate (honeycomb) printed in ABS.

One more board, this time a foilboard. As I have not been sure if the break load is high enough it was planned as kind of a "experimental prototype" but figured out this works for a rider with max. 80kg. Edge elements (silver) and connection profiles (orange) are printed in ABS, bolts (blue) are CPE. Core of the board is balsawood covered with carbon fibre. The foil underneath is a bought one but I am working on this 😉

There is a Kress (AMB) FME800 Spindle inside. The idea behind was to place all components of the z-axis side by side to minimize the distance between the center of the spindle and the big aluminium bridge. But works only with a flat basic plate without any components (guide rails/spindles/e-chain) at the sides.

Hi, this is my new hobby milling-machine with 800x500mm workspace. Contains about 4kg of PLA for spindle-mounts, e-chains, suction system, end caps... PLA works great for this. I have just added thermal isolation plates between the motors and the spindle-mounts.

A while ago I have made some testing on the edges with a hammer and the sharp edge of a rectangular aluminium-tube. The result was that rigidity is good enough and the board would stay water-tight after a hit. Anyway the glassfibre on top and bottom will help here. But up to now I have never compared this to a usual full ABS or a moulded PU-rail. As I have about two years expirience now with this I can say there seem to be no issues. Bending and torsional loads never have been a problem as well. I believe the forces at freeriding with normal rider weight are moderate. Of course it might be another story if you sell the boards and have to care about things like product-liability and -insurance. Greets Micha

... It took over one year now until somebody was able to catch me on camera. Maybe just accidently 🙂

Hi Ultimaker-community, I´m using my Ultimaker 2+ for building of splittable kiteboards. The edges are made of ABS. When I started with this I thought about building a big printer with approx. 800x500mm but realized then that it´s absolutely no problem to connect the pieces together with little bone-shaped parts. The top- and bottom layers in CURA are set to zero so that the epoxy-resin can later flow trough the edges during lamination process. This makes the bottom and top glassfibre stick very good together. Off course not very complicated parts to print but what I think a good example how 3d-printing helps to built stuff you need for hobby ;-) Greets Micha