Mari
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Posts posted by Mari
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You can heat hot-end and bed at the same time, just change the starting G-code in Cura... simply by first giving the command to heat both and then the command to wait for both to reach the desired temperature...
M140 S{material_bed_temperature} ; start preheating the bed M104 S{material_print_temperature} ?T0 ; start preheating hotend G28 ; home M190 S{material_bed_temperature} ; heat to bed setting in Cura and WAIT M109 S{material_print_temperature} ?T0 ; heat hotend to setting in Cura and WAIT -
... printer has to know how many steps the extruder has to make to extrude 100mm of material... with less steps you get underextrusion, with more steps you get overextrusion! Therefore you need to calibrate this!
--> https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/ctc-3d-printer-owners/forums/general/topic:7915
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Did you calibrate your printer extruder e-steps?
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Happy Printing...
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... but still wondering what setting you are using
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Don't think so... show me the setting you use... "My" cave is open as you can see!
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... use infill.. in my example I set it to 10% and grid! no empty space when the cave starts!
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Clarify things, make a screencapture and point out your "problem". I opened the file in cura, had to scale it to 2.5% to fit my buildplate!
Can't see why it is not possible to print... cave is open, doesn't change with high or low infill-percentage... and since it is flat on the buildplate there is no need for support...
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You probably know the answer! If you can't find the option, it isn't there! Why not upgrade to 4.6.1 version?
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... did you compare Gcode made with Creality Slicer and Cura? What did you find?
Start with posting the first 25/30 lines of the Gcode files from both slicers so we can take a look at it....
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If you think the problem is the Start Gcode, simply compare the Gcode made with Cura with the one made with Creality slicer and find the difference!
Use Google to get Gcodes explained (what they do and where they are used for)... remove the "garbage" from the start Gcode in Cura you don't need!
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The "lightsource" is inside the smoke detector so it doesn't matter if you turn on/off the lights and if there is a window or not.QuoteIn an optical point smoke detector there is a photodiode and a light source. When smoke is added, the light is disrupted which is seen by the detector. In the direct method, the light source and detector are directly opposite each other. In the absence of smoke, light can easily reach the photodiode. If smoke particles are present between the light source and the photodiode, the amount of incident light will decrease and the detector will sound the alarm. Most smoke detectors work according to the indirect method. The light source and the detector are diagonally opposite each other. In the event of smoke, the light bounces off the smoke, causing more light to fall on the detector and sounding the alarm. An internally polluted smoke detector that works according to the direct method will, in principle, become increasingly sensitive and alarm.
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... maybe first Google how a photoelectric sensor works...
The original orange cap seems to be translucent, the black one you printed isn't! Don't play arround with smokedetectors, better be safe than sorry!
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Duh.. an Ender 3 Pro has a flexible magnetic build surface, so no need for hair spray or other stuff to let the filament stick! Also no need to raise the flow-rate for the first layer...
Check this website: https://www.chepclub.com/bed-level.html
-- watch YouTube video & download gcode files for bedleveling! It is best to do bed leveling 2 times 😉
Use Cura with the default setting for an Ender 3 (Pro), later on you can change settings, first get the printer to work!
Don't forget to clean the build surface regular with isopropynol alcohol... 70% is enough, higher % will damage the build surface after some time.
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A planter isn't something small with lots of details 😁
Like I said earlier, sometimes they break things when there is a software-update... test it with an older version of Cura to check if it worked in that version or not!
If you don't want to use glue and you are not able to print the design in one piece ----> REDESIGN...
Post process scripts are great tools, but sometimes the don't work and then you have to find out why! Like I said earlier, Pause at Height did work in 4.1 was broken in 4.2 and...
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There is nothing wrong with Start/End G-code... you're trying something that is labled "experimental"... so errors can occur (or user makes mistakes putting in the right values on the right positions!).
Why do you want to slowdown printspeed? What purpose besided longer printing time?
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Sometimes things get broken or don't do what you want them to do... Try to find out if this is something that is broken (bug) or doesn't work like to want it to...
Like Pause At Height, did work in 4.1 bus was broken again in 4.2...
Workaround: change speed again after that layer...
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Someone made a type-error... no big deal... we all know how long things take to print 😉
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What is the recommended printing temperature given by the manufacturer?
The manufacturer of the PLA I use says: 195-215... I tried a lot of different temperatures, I get the best results at 210 (on my printer).
So try a little higher temperature en see what happens...
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What is the difference in the SET temperature and the actual temperature of the heated bed? If the sensors is near the heating element, sensor will reach SET temperature before the complete heated bed reaches that temperature!
- SET a higher value... (maybe only for the first layer!)
or
- move sensor...
or
- Use something else to print in instead of a slow-heating-alu-plate...
or
- Learn to live with it... 😉
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I have no bed-leveling command in mine, instead of G29 command there is a G92 E0 command... G29 is put there for some reason, please explain!
It has probably something to do with that I guess...
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But that didn't do the trick...
There are 2 options in G4-command, P = time in milliseconds and S= time in seconds... For a waiting time of 2 minutes it's more logical to use S120 instead of P120000.
Give it a try...
Or use M0 command to wait untill button is pressed!
I have simply put some extra commands in my start Gcode to heat bed an nozzle at the same time and start when temperature is reached...
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; start preheating the bed M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} T0 ; start preheating hotend G28 ; home M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; heat to Cura Bed setting M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} T0 ; heat to Cura Hotend -
... you could set the bed temperature a little bit higher... or put a pause print command in the gcode so you have to press a button to start the initial print!
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Lijkt mij eerder een "typefout" dan een "bug" 🤪 wedden dat de printer er ruim 16 uur over gaat doen?
Cura nozzle temps not being applied by printer
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
I also use a Ender 3, you can use my start/end G-code if you like...
Start G-code
M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00 ;Setup machine max acceleration M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z10.00 E50.00 ;Setup machine max feedrate M204 P500.00 R1000.00 T500.00 ;Setup Print/Retract/Travel acceleration M205 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.40 E5.00 ;Setup Jerk M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate M221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate M140 S{material_bed_temperature} ; start preheating the bed M104 S{material_print_temperature} ?T0 ; start preheating hotend G28 ; home M190 S{material_bed_temperature} ; heat to bed setting in Cura and WAIT M109 S{material_print_temperature} ?T0 ; heat hotend to setting in Cura and WAIT G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up M300 S1000 P500 ; chirp to indicate starting to print G1 X5.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position G1 X5.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line G1 X5.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little G1 X5.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis upEnd G-code
G91 ;Relative positionning G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit G1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out G1 Z10 ;Raise Z more G90 ;Absolute positionning G1 X0 Y{machine_depth} ;Present print M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed M84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z M117 Print Completed M300 S440 P200 ; Make Print Completed Tones M300 S660 P250 M300 S880 P300