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Mari

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Mari last won the day on September 17

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  1. The Creality CR-10S Pro has a heated bed, so that should be no problem... PETG & Glass Bed are not the best combination because PETG can stick so good to the bed that it will damage it! Friend of my experienced that with his Ender 3 Pro (changed from flex mat to glass bed, I warned him to be cautious)... I recently ordered a roll of PETG, my first print with it was a CHEP Calibration Cube... Print temperature 235 degrees, bed temperature 50 degrees, print speed aprox. 50mm/s, still trying out the best fan-speed... (used 100%, but my friend told me 60% is better). Must say I use
  2. Cheetah is less flexible than Ninjaflex, but therefore easier to print with a bowden-tube style printer! Ninjaflex: Shore Hardness = 85A Cheetah: Shore Hardness = 95A Armadillo: Shore Hardness = 75D Regular PLA: Shore Hardness = 83D How flexible the part you print will be depends on wall thickness, wall layers and of-course infill percentage...
  3. I have some experience with Ninjatek Cheetah, but not in the way you used Ninjaflex (gasket)...
  4. Before you can use High Floating HDMI you need power... Just bought a wireless set 🤪 I use a Raspberry Pie 3B+ with octoprint to get my printer going...
  5. ... impossible... you can't connect USB to a Micro-SD slot ... Your printer probably also has a USB connector... but without telling the brand/type of printer we can't be sure!
  6. Not all of us are familiar with the Creality CP-01 printer, so first check if you have assembled the printer the right way! If all is done correct, you start with setting up Cura for your printer... For asfar as I know the CP-01 is not in the list of printers that can be added to Cura, so you probably choose one of the other Creality printers to start with? Did you check the settings of this printer? Are they correct for the CP-01? Make photograph of you buildplate after printing and share that with us, so we can see what you problem is. A good help is to load the to pr
  7. Mari

    3MF workflow

    Maybe stupid idea: you all use the same printername?
  8. Like gr5 said, it's probably that you have thicked "origin at center" by accident! Unthick that option in your printer settings and you are ready to go... If this doesn't solve the problem, maybe you can share the project-file with us. Load the object in Cura, choose for SAVE PROJECT and share that 3MF-file with us. Then we have your settings and it is easier to see what may be the problem!
  9. Blaming the software but having hardware problems... check the hardware regular, belt tension, connectors etc.
  10. I have printed Ninjatek Cheetah (95A) and I know Ninjatek Ninjaflex (85A) is also no problem to print with a bowden style printer (without oiling the filament). I don't know if there are softer materials to print!
  11. Does "mattercontrol slicer" change the E-steps for the stepper-motors?
  12. You could try the "Support Blocker" option... Watch this video from 3:30 for some explanation how to use that..
  13. Screenshots don't tell the whole story... please attach the STL-file and 3MD-project file... Create the 3MF-project file by choosing for SAVE PROJECT in Cura... Then we can check what happens when we are trying to print the STL with our own settings and how it looks when using your settings...
  14. It should be possible to print something that is 205mm in the 220x220 buildplate-setting of the Ender 3 (Pro). Sometimes options in Cura are of influence of what can be printed and what can not be printed, one of these options is "Build Plate Adhesion - SKIRT". I have set my printer to 220x220, imported an object and scaled it so it it 205mm wide... Skirt active, not able to slice: Skirt NOT active, able to slice: I checked my previous printer settings, that was 235x235 for my Ender 3 Pro...
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