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Mari

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Posts posted by Mari

  1. ... instead of getting frustrated You should have remembered how you started printing with your ender 3... probably by using the Micro SD-Card...🤪

     

    If you really, really, really need to print things, forget printing via USB and start with using the Micro SD-card...

     

    And @tinkergnome is right, use a dedicated print-server like octoprint, that is way, way better then using Cura for that!

     

  2. @ZachBrooks ... are you using a skirt, brim or raft? Object may fit the buildplate, but you need space for skirt/brim/raft... if not, then try rotating the object or scale it down

     

    By posting only the error-message we have no clue what you are trying to print or how the object is placed on the buildplate!

     

    @obewan, I wouldn't post a project-file of a bought STL-file... 🤪

  3. ... Check this website, download the Gcode files and re-do you bed leveling...

     

    https://www.chepclub.com/bed-level.html

     

    After leveling the bed, calibrate your printer by printing Calibration-cube and also calibrate Extruder so it extrudes the right amount of material (you can find tutorials on YouTube).

     

    First make sure you can make descent prints with PLA before you start with PET-G...

     

    CHEP has also good profiles for Cura for your printer, download and Import them...

    • Thanks 1
  4. When changing/inserting Mirco-SD card, use the "change SD-Card" option to read the content of the SD-card that is present!

     

    Long filenames can be a problem, so keep them as short as possible (like the suggested DOS 8.3 format).  When a filename starts with "_" (underscore) this file will not show up on the printer... (found that out bij accident).

  5. I have only one printer, so I have no need to slice it for another printer and compare the amount of the material used and the printing time!

     

    I know calculations are not always that accurate...  Compare ALL settings and maybe you find out why things are how they are!

     

    Hint: printing speed, travel et.c etc.

  6. Some printers print fine without calibration, I noticed that my printer could use some calibration...

     

    When you are printing on the flexible magnetic buildplate, you better use 60 degrees to get good adhesion. Clean the buildplate with Isopropynol alcohol 70%... Printing temperature is depending on the filament type you are using (I print a lot with a PLA Filament from a Dutch Webshop 123-3D.nl. My ideal temperature for this filament is 210 degrees!)

     

    For calibrating X,Y and Z, you can print a calibration cube...  You can find many tutorials on calibrating your printer on YouTube, for example on the channel of CHEP!

  7. I almost ran out of filament, so only printed 50% of the object. The problem were the poor result of the printed pegs.

     

    Like you can see, this is a good print of the pegs...

     

    I did a little search on the WWW, Print Temperature of Inland PLA+ should be 205-225 degrees, so if you print this on a too low temperature you get bad prints! Find out what the best print temperature is for this type of filament on your printer (not every printer is the same, so ideal print temperature may differ a few degrees between Ender 3 pro and another Ender 3 Pro).

     

    Did you calibrate extruder, X,Y and Z steppermotors? You will be surprised to see that and Ender 3 Pro needs calibration, you probably print with standard E-steps setting in Firmware!

    2020-08-06 20.59.14.jpg

    2020-08-06 21.01.30.jpg

  8. Just downloaded your 3MF-file... Starting the print with only minor changes on your settings (Buildplate 50 instead of 60 degrees, Printing Temperature 210 instead of 200 degrees and brim instead of skirt for beter printbed adhesion!)... Will show later how the prints looks like!

     

    Did you print it in this orientation? With the pegs-side on the heated bed? Not sure it will print that way without support... Will see, printer is running!

  9. When you switch from material A to material B, the "default" printing temperature don't have to be the same...

     

    For example, I print PLA on 210 degrees and TPU on 235 degrees... When I switch material from PLA to TPU the nozzle-temperature changes automatically! I have set both temperatures in the material-setting! The only thing I have to remember is to switch material when I switch filament 😉

  10. To solve possible problems, we need more information than you are giving us... You only tell us the printing temperature, the type of filament, layerheight, infill percentage, support... but Cura has many more settings...

     

    Next time EXPORT the object you want to print as 3MF-file, so we have not only the object but also your printer profile and the settings!

     

    It seems there is no problem with the object you want to print... 

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