Mari
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Posts posted by Mari
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attach one of those files so we can take a look at it...
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No need for BLTouch... I have this printer almost 2 years, in those 2 years I had to level the bed maybe 4 or 5 times (even when it was not needed)...
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Take a look in the Ender 3/Ender 3 Pro Facebook Group... it is a soap... people who own their first 3D-printer are giving others advice about bad bed adhesion... buy glass bed, level bed, level the bed again, buy BLTouch, etc. etc. But they forget that whatever bed you use and even when your bed is 1000% level and the nozzle is at the perfect height, the role of material can play a role in good of bad bed adhesion...
I had bad bed adhesion 2 days ago, so I did level the bed again like I did before, cleaned the bed, but still no luck in getting a good first layer... Put the role of PLA in my filament dryer... +44% humidity... after a few hours of drying that dropped to 15%... Have put the role back on the machine and had good first layers again...
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... without seeing the "problem" makes is almost impossible to give advice... No screenshots? You could attach your Cura project-file (3MF) so we can take a look at it!
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Did you check your Gcode-files for information about time?
;FLAVOR:Marlin M117 Time Left 0h15m28s - M117 Time Left 0h13m44s ;TIME_ELAPSED:103.393496 ;LAYER:2 - M117 Time Left 0h13m00s ;TIME_ELAPSED:147.288543 ;LAYER:3Total printing time 15m28s, after 1m43s layer 1 was finished and started with layer 2...
Not sure if the TIME ELAPSED is standard in Gcode-file, if not, you can use post-processing script to put Remaining Time on LCD... like I have in all my files
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I'm sure we all have updated Cura... I didn't test this option in v4.3 but it works for me in v4.7.x (still not updated to v4.8)
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Like @GregValiant said, for the info on the display you have to activate post-processing script... In the following example the remaining time to print is presented on the display
When a post-processing script is active you can see that on your Cura screen (icon of the crossed hammer and wrench, when more then 1 script is activated you can see that also...)
If you scroll down the Gcode, you will see that a M117-command is added...
M117 Time Left 0h36m03s
;TIME_ELAPSED:115.887366 -
To prevent failure due too moisture in filament I bought myself a Wanhoa Box 2 filament dryer. I throw a new role for a few hours in the dryer and then store the role in a Zip-bag together with a silica gel pack when not in use...
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You can duplicate the existing profile, give it a other name and make the changes in that new profile...
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If you use the magnetic flex mat, put a piece of alu foil in the middle of the bed under the flex mat... to compensate the "dip" in de heated bed!
Levelling the bed can be a pain-in-the-*ss, but you have to learn how to do it right!
There is a Ender 3/Ender 3 Pro group on Facebook, it seems that the whole world bought a 3D-printer for the holidays and now the all have the same problem: nothing sticks to the bed... 🤕
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I've added two screenshots to the comments on Thingiverse to explain the design-fault 🤪
We are here (and on Thingiverse) to help... Happy Printing...
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Best is to leave a comment on Thingiverse instead of a pm... then the designer and everybody else can see there is a little problem with the design and you can tell them how to solve it 😉
I mostly use Cura, but also have PrusaSlicer installed...
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... there are some problems with the "Pause at Height" prost-processing script... Instead of using "at height" try "layer no"...
Some advice, do more layer than just only one to "cover" the magnets...
Good Video that explains PauseAtHeight... just don't change filament 😉
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If you do a search you will see that there are more topics about "pauseatheight" not working... there are even some versions of Cura that have a non working "pauseatheight" when selected "by layer"... 😉 The team knows about this bug but it isn't that easy to solve...
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... definitely a design-error... I think it supposed to be flat, but it isn't. Can be fixed by redrawing the item but if height isn't an issue you can as suggested move the Z a little down...
If it's your own design, pay more attention on how things are drawn...
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@gr5, great video, have put it in favourites on YouTube 😉
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You want the developers to add a feature for a problem (warping) that you should try to fix first?
Start with making sure the bed is levelled, follow the levelling procedure not once but twice or more... After that make sure the bed is clean (I use Isopropynol alcohol 70%, and have no problems with warping or not sticking to the bed at all, I also use the right bed and print temperature for the material I print!).
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Sometimes with a newer version of Cura these kind of options don't work any more, they will be fixed in newer updates so sometimes you have to wait a little or use an older version!
The times I used this option, it was always with "pause at layer"... therefore never noticed that "pause at height" didn't work.
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You don't have to "screenshot" Gcode, you can attach the file to the message...
It is normal to switch off the cooling fan for the first few layers... I only change fan-speeds when printing PETG instead of PLA... But now you know where to change it 😉
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Please share all your settings for cooling... There are settings that shut-off cooling the first few layers... I never had any problems with these settings...
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Good to hear you fixed it... Happy Slicing & Printing...
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No problems with slicing this file... It is better to attach the Cura Project-file instead of the STL-file. The project-file also contains your printer/cura settings! So do a "save project file"... 😉
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Did some research: "run with graphic processor" disappeared with Windows 10 2020 update... (those stupic M$ F*ckers)
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... you have to tell Windows which Graphic-card to use for Cura...
--> https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/103965-set-preferred-gpu-apps-windows-10-a.html
In the past it was easier, you could right-click the icon and change graphic-card... that option seems to be gone since a few updates of Windows!
crealty ender 6 Printer profile
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
Smaller layerheight (0.12 instead of 0.20) will give better quality print, but will take longer to print!
You decide how fast to print, default is 50-60mm/s but you can bump it up. How fast depends on what to print! Some things can better be printed slow instead of fast!