GregValiant

TAAA-DAAA. Nice job!

This is going back to square one. That machine definition was developed by another member here and submitted to the Cura team. The Cura team doesn't have every 3d printer on the planet to check for accuracy but in this case, it looks like the submitter got it right. Physically my Ender 3Pro build plate is 235 x 235. In reality the X0 isn't far enough to the left for the nozzle to get to the edge of the build plate. In Cura I have it set to 230 x 235. In the firmware (Marlin 1.1.8) the max endstops are at X235, Y231, Z250. For a test I designed a plate 230 X 235 X 3 and stuck it in Cura. It wouldn't slice until I scaled it back to 99.5%. I did a dry run print and the nozzle stayed right at the edge of the build plate on all 4 sides. A previous test I did was a simple X. Cura put it in the middle of it's build area. I printed it and adjusted the Home Offset until it was in the center of my build plate. I can see that it isn't an option for you because even if you changed the Home Offset (M206) you couldn't move the origin lower than X15 so that side of the plate can't be used anyways. This has been kind of interesting. Questions about getting the center of the plate to agree with Cura come up all the time. It's another thing about these machines that seems so simple - but it isn't simple at all.

With the print head at X15, Y12 select Set Home Offsets on the LCD (on mine its under "prepare"). That will move your local 0,0 to the new position. You may have to make your build plate smaller in Cura since effectively it will be X220, Y223. This might be why the build plate size was hard coded at 220 x 220.

Somebody who knows more about this will have to answer. I think you can set up an area that is non-printable Cura will then add gray areas to the build plate in it's main window and if a model (or skirt/brim) intrudes into that gray area then Cura will refuse to slice it. That area may be defined in your ".json" machine definition file. This is from the Ender 3 .json file: "overrides": { "machine_name": { "default_value": "Creality Ender-3" }, "machine_width": { "default_value": 235 }, "machine_depth": { "default_value": 235 }, "machine_height": { "default_value": 250 }, "machine_disallowed_areas": { "default_value": [ [[-117.5, 117.5], [-117.5, 108], [117.5, 108], [117.5, 117.5]], Rectangle 235 x 9.5 in the back [[-117.5, -108], [-117.5, -117.5], [117.5, -117.5], [117.5, -108]] Rectangle 235 x 9.5 in the front ]}, I don't understand the X15, Y12 thing. When you Home the print head it goes to the machine X0, Y0, Z0 and is up against the 3 endstop switches - is that correct?. Or are you saying it comes into contact (crashes) with itself before it gets there.

I like it. I had to save the stl as a 3mf. The stl file was WAY over there. The 3mf is right where it belongs.

My pleasure. It is exceedingly unlikely that the ChangeAtZ plugin just one day decided "Hey, I think I know how to drive this guy nuts" and then jumped into your gcode FOUR TIMES, and then filled in it's own settings FOUR TIMES. Did you happen to open a 3mf file that somebody else created? That might do it since a 3mf Cura Project file has just about everything in it.

You have a Plug-in active. From the code (shown below) it's ChangeatZ and there are 4 of them. Line #11 ;POSTPROCESSED ;Big clue there Line#10626 ;[CAZD: Line#10627 M104 S250.0 T0 Line#10628 ;:CAZD] Next to the Slice button is an icon with a crossed hammer and wrench that probably has a red circle next to it. Click on the icon and then click on the |X| next to each ChangeAtZ plugin. That will get rid of them. Then you can re-slice.

Home position is where the switches are. It is the only place that the machine actually knows where the print head is. If your switches get hit when the print head is in the right rear then that's fine. Consider that if you stand behind the printer then it becomes left front. If you load the 3dbenchy boat in Cura with the bow facing to the right towards X=235 then when you print it and stand in front of your printer the bow will be facing left but towards the printer's X=235. If you set the home offset correctly so your Relative 0,0 is just at the back edge and just at the right edge of the build plate you'll be good to go. I leave a 5mm border all the way around and if I need that extra bit I make changes in the Home Offset and the build plate size in Cura. FYI your Home Offset X and Y will be negative numbers.

It's a printer setting - you need to alter your Home Offsets. Your X and Y are going to end up near zero (Z will be zero). After sending the print head Home, jog the X until the nozzle is just inside the left edge of the build surface. Then jog the Y until the nozzle is just inside the front edge of the build surface. On the LCD hit Set Home Offsets (or whatever it's called). The center of the build plate will end up real close to X117.5 and Y117.5 Is that a skirt? If it is then change the "Skirt Distance" to 1 and you will pick up a little room.

What are the F numbers in the gcode like? At 26mm/sec you should see F1560 below a line that is ";TYPE:WALL-OUTER". If you see F840 then yes, it's moving pretty slow. I don't know that analysis software but I can't see anything in your preview that is as dark a blue as the left end of the scale is. At the right end - is your travel speed 190 or are you printing that fast?

The flow rate multiplier (M221) will not be in the Gcode. The E-numbers are calculated at the higher flow rate so there is no need to tell the printer/planner. It's the same as speed changes. The "F" numbers are calculated at the rate you set in Cura and there is no need for M220 in the Gcode. When I checked this problem out (4.7beta), the 2nd M104 line was in the Gcode but it was well before the start of the second layer. In the model I was using it was 300 lines of code before the layer change. That does seem odd as I thought it would be right at the end of "layer 0". A hot end doesn't need that long to cool down. You have "M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0}" in the start Gcode with the "S" and the curly brackets correct? Cura should put the temp number in place of the variable name, then later in Layer:0 (but maybe not at the end) there should be that second M104 with your actual print temp in it. Slice a model with the Initial Layer Flow at 100%, then check the last E number of Layer:0. Slice the same model again but with the Initial Layer Flow set to 200% and the last E number of Layer:0 should be 2X what it was at 100%.

Is that a newish Anet? What firmware is loaded in the printer? What type of system (Windows, Mac, Linux) are you going to run the slicer software on?

I scaled them to 10% so they would fit on the Ender build plate (they came in huge and didn't "fit within the build volume"). The BASE file sliced OK. The Clip file is "Not Watertight" but it did slice.

You've probably been looking at all the settings but is the prime tower enabled? Or a wipe or nozzle clean or a plug-in?

How about the post-processor plug-in "Time Lapse"?

Until someone shows up who knows what they're talking about - look under "Cooling" at Minimum Layer Time and Lift Head. You have a small cross-section there and Cura may be letting each layer cool sufficiently before continuing to the next layer.

It isn't a problem for all printers. The Creality machines don't like file names over 16 characters. Of course Creality doesn't explain that anywhere. Each of us pretty much has to find out by ourselves.

You would need to use a Brim for the model but then you could use "Enable support brim" to give the supports a wider base.

M420 S1 Z2 ;Enable ABL using saved Mesh and Fade Height I don't have a CR10 but from reading the other threads, your printer doesn't like M420. In the Cura forum, there is a thread about "How do I get rid of this triangle". There was a lot of talk and then a member named "civit" posted this: "I was having this problem with a new cr10s pro v2. It was quite annoying. The fix suggested above works, however, and now my gcode from cura works perfectly. "Change this G28 ;Home M420 S1 Z2 ;Enable ABL using saved Mesh and Fade Height To this: G28 ;Home G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle G29 ;Enable ABL using saved Mesh and Fade Height" That change seems to have made a lot of people happy. There might be an updated "machine definition" file for Cura as well.

100% of all the PLA produced on the planet will end up in landfills. - Me

Ok. Semantics is it. Well I don't like "modifier meshes". How about something exciting like "Variable Density Augmenters" or "Internal Structure Adjusters" or the ever popular "Inside Topography Transformer Thingies"?

I have had some success (depending on part geometry) using support blockers. Set "Per Model Settings | Modify settings for Overlaps" differently for the blocker. You can add walls or change the infill density to 100%. I suppose you could bring in a 2nd custom shaped model and use it as the blocker. I haven't had to do that yet but off the top of my head it sounds like it should work.

After a while (the length of time is flexible) you need to re-format the SD card. Large capacity SD cards are not handled well by the small processor in the printer. Stick with 8 or 16GB cards. Long file names aren't a good idea either since the printer has to truncate them to DOS 8.3 format internally. Finally, try saving the gcode file to the hard drive and then manually copying it over to the SD card. See if that works.

The teeth aren't quite connected to the pulley body. I tried the mesh fixer in Cura and it seemed to make a bit of a difference but it still wasn't forming the radius between the teeth. I think the problem is with the model as well. Instead of being part of the pulley, the teeth are just really close to the pulley.

Try putting an M220 S100 at the beginning of the Gcode file. If that works then put one in the Start-Up gcode in Cura so it will get added to every file. You'll still want to chase down what is really going on with the high feed rates.