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sr1329

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  1. I really like the ironing feature and am currently calibrating the flow %. I also use the Support fan speed override and really like that feature. I was wondering if an override to change the fan speed at ironing layers would let users calibrate that to achieve different surface textures and finishes. Does anyone else think this could be a cool thing to play with?
  2. So it may be obvious now but needing to go as wide as 0.4 to have easy removal of the brim on a 0.4 nozzle is a sign of the nozzle being too close to the bed. Now that I have figured out my proper Z-offset 0.4 appears as thin line between the print and brim. Parts have no warping whereas I had incidents of warping when my nozzle was too close to the bed. I suppose it's a better calibration aid than the usual "look at lines at top of your first layer".
  3. I wish they warned people about this KNOWN bug so thatan Octolapse user would just wait.
  4. So the other thing just so you know is that I'm using Octolapse and someone on reddit mentioned that there are retraction settings for Octolapse. So probably the issue is there. Spider profile.curaprofile BTW, it just occurred to me that which I was complaining about the consistent travel moves at certain points of time were due to my timed 30 seconds profile I used. Octolapse truly is a new artform.
  5. Sure as soon as I get home. Thank you. On reddit people are asking me to frame it so I ordered a new bed.
  6. Here’s a new picture. Is there a way to get the slicer to not put a starfish in the middle of my print job?
  7. The series? I’ll have to look for that. Anyway disabling combing seems to have worked. Also I upgraded my bed leveling to 5x5. It seems to have solved the problem.
  8. Yes you are right. But those come off with the wipe of my thumb. Anyway I don't know what benefits combing provides. I just tried it as part of my PETG stringing attack. I'll disable it for my coming prints. I wonder if coasting volume will need to be changed. In any case I'll try Linear Advance when I understand Marlin better. Also I've been watching this print and it's doing fine now. It seems to only happen near lower layers whether it is traveling over printed area or over brim/glass/brim. The travel move happens successfully and leaves no trace of stringing. The lower layers print much slower. I just noticed initial layer travel speed is only 100mm/s I'll raise all travel to 200mm/s and disable combing and see how it goes.
  9. I have played with travel settings a little but I can't figure out how to make i stop doing this. Let's say it is printing a rectangle. There are 2 points while it is printing that rectangle the nozzle does a diagonal travel move to the other side of the rectangle. I have dialed out all other stringing except for the triangle caused by this travel move. I have combing enabled to travel over the part except skin. Travel move speed is 150mm/s. Coasting enabled at 0.8mm3 for a 0.4mm nozzle. I don't get stringing anywhere else currently and it took me a few days to dial that in.
  10. Does 4.6.2 work for you on the new drivers? In my case i’m using standard intel integrated graphics and whatever driver Windows 10 installed for it.
  11. Seriously same problem. I was stupid enough to delete all my “userdata” files to see if that was the problem. I ended up recreating my profiles from scratch and it doesn’t work. So I had to go back to 4.6.2 and recreate my profiles there again. I have both installed on the system as installing 4.6.2 doesn’t ask to remove a higher numbered version. I may as well remove 4.7 and keep using 4.6.2. It crashes only upon opening an STL file. Windows is latest release version of 10. I believe version 2003 or whatever the May update was. It happens with all files I’ve tried so it’s not the file. I can open and slice in 4.6.2. There is some output for the error it seemed to reference profiles. And someone mentioned deleting the Cura folder under your userdata worked in this situation on some other version of Cura.
  12. I printed a few more parts. I’m finding 0.4 to be ideal especially with larger parts with a lot of first layer geometry. Otherwise 0.3 is better for smaller parts. No warping or bed adhesion issues. But also yesterday I did maintenance on my hot end and mount. It was a bit loose before. Now my first layer adhesion is so good that I may not even need a brim. However it seems like no harm and lets the extruder work a little before the main print. With 0.4 gap it has no disadvantages at all so I’ll keep using a brim.
  13. Hi. So I looked at the description in the slicer itself. It’s pretty clear there how it says that if you enable this feature the infill will be exposed to air. It’s not a feature I would personally use.
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