3dprntz
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Posts posted by 3dprntz
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The Thread you were referring to was about using Recap?
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It works on cylinders, just with a model like this the lines appear jagged. Would you suggest to turn it off when there isn't as many curves? Sorry, let me get an example.
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I ran one with and without. I usually always run it on my Marlin printers (UMO and UMO+) I only get these with very steep lines like in the picture. Other than that, I have no other issues with the plugin. Does it work also on UM3?
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I think I'm getting a problem from the plugin with very steep straight lines. Thought it was the belts on my printer, but found out its software related. Instead of going straight to a point, I get these small zigzags on a few sides. kind of like an old screen trying to make a straight line.
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I get the error 'nonetype' object has no attribute 'Chop' on mine. Seems to happen when I want to work with gcode. Dosen't work if I try downloading it to the computer or over network.
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Recently got an Ultimaker Original+ and got it printing. Noticed that when I was printing a calibration for bed leveling that the lines werent matching or there were spaces. If it draws squares across the build plate, you see spaces between the lines or the lines of the squares dont always match up (ill include pictures when I get home). I also get surface artifacts or bumps on the straight lines on the calibration cube. Is this a cura problem, because I have it with my other Ultimaker original (that one prints cleanly), or is it the XY gantry system? I've tried to square it as much as possible and there is a bit of resistance towards the ends (if anyone knows a better way to square the gantry that would be great).
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the machine itself is 19V with the power supply and the amps is 6.32A, so around 120 Watts. When we did tests on the heated bed, we picked up around .9 to 1.2 ohms on the bed with the multimeter and couldn't get it consistent. Right now the bed is the only one connected to the 24V 350W power supply.
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Guess I got to start making pizzas on my machine. hahah. Im not worried about the bed as much anymore. I think I might upgrade the machine to a 24V machine.
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I got a separate PSU and Its working great. its a 24V 350W. So heats up the bed quite quickly. I tried tuning the PID on the firmware, but don't think its being saved. Does the bUlitmaker Firmware support saving auto PID tuning on the heated bed? If not, does that mean I will have to create my own configuration to do it. Or is there a way to edit this in the file that you get from the firmware builder site?
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I found out it was my router/modem from xfinity. Realized that I couldn't share information across computers on my network and the utlimaker wasn't connecting to the cloud. Had to reset the connection settings but it worked.
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I've still had the same problem too. Tried the same thing many times, and I think Im going to first change my router network and modem, then try again. Im thinking the xfinity modem network that I am using is messing with my accessibility.
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On 12/6/2020 at 9:33 AM, gr5 said:
Yeah this is too vague. How many ohms is it exactly? I'm going to guess it's 200W at 18V so that means 355Watts. it would help if you ohmed it out or if there was a more specific specification. The wattage will change with the voltage so the question is "what's the wattage at 24V?".
So do you have tinkerMarlin firmware? I assume not - that has some really nice features around power management. It would easily allow you to never use more than 150W (default UM2 heater).
Please give the model number from your power supply. I assume it's one of these two:
GST220A24-R7B
GS220A24-R7B
So if you want to roll your own Marlin and don't want to use a tinker version then you have an option in Configuration.h:
#define MAX_BED_POWER 255
255 means 100%. You want to restrict to 150W and I assume it's 355W so you want to restrict it to 42% (150/355=42%). 42% of 255 is 107. So set MAX_BED_POWER to 107. This should hopefully restrict power to 150W and your brick should be hopefully happy. It might not because 355W is going to draw a LOT of current when it's on. Let me back up - setting it to 107 will bean it will turn the bed on and off about 20X per second. So 21ms on and 39ms off. Your lights are going to flicker like crazy when the bed is on but I think it may work. But the printer will be pulling a LOT of current/power for 21ms before giving the supply a break for 39ms to recover. That might be too much. It will probably be fine. The main capacitors (they are like batteries that store up the power during that 39ms recovery) may get too hot but I think they will be fine. I'm pretty sure the supply can handle this. The voltage will be dropping 20X per second - down to maybe 22V or something but hopefully/probably nothing will care. The steppers won't care. The heater won't care. It should work.
So:
1) What is the actual wattage of your bed at 24V? (if you know the resistance, the formula is wattage = voltage^2/resistance)
2) What firmware did you end up with? If you have tinkerMarlin you can fix your problem in the power budget settings
3) Which power supply do you have?
There is one more option - get a bigger supply like you suggested. I doubt you can find a 500W 24V supply for less than the cost of your entire printer (You need 355W for the bed, 25W for your nozzle (what is the nozzle wattage?) and about 25W for the servos).
And a final option is to get a supply just for the bed and add a relay and have that supply only power the bed. If you get a 18V supply then the bed will probably be only 200W which is more reasonable.
Getting an 18V supply is not a good option as the servos work better at 24V but you can go that route also. Still 200W is too much for most power supplies. But a 300W 18V supply might work - but now you need a more powerful nozzle heater.
I haven't gotten a great reading but the ohms on the bed have a range of .8 to 1.2, so I'm thinking its around 1. I'm doing some tests on it to see the actual specs as the site doesn't provide much information on the heated bed. My guess is that is is like the standard reprap heated bed that you find everywhere. Im checking also the possibility of changing the power supply to 24V and just using one means well PSU. Ive checked the power supply yesterday and its a PA-1121-04 Liteon power supply, which probably isn't the right one. So maybe the real power supply has been mixed up with another over the years from moving. But I've ordered a 350W 24V 14.6A power supply from Amazon to test the bed. It might work as a replacement for the actual one, but we will see. I also have a mosfet for the board right now, but maybe I can get it connected directly to the board when I convert it over.
The software I am using is the regular bultimaker firmware generator. Its been easy to install and work. I wanted to upgrade some of the systems in the Ultimaker in the new firmware, but I've had problems with the code and I haven't had time to look into it.
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Is the hotend fan the only thing to replace? In the video it said nothing about it? What are some other things that I should calibrate or adjust?
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Saw on Reddit a year ago that someone turned off the infill on the first layer and set infill after to be 100% with triangle infill to give the bottom a crystalline-looking structure. I've tried that with the newer versions of Cura and it seems to prevent you from doing that anymore. Just wondering if anyone has had success with that or any other cool first layer designs. I know MakeAnything has done it a couple of times with gcode modification and tweaking. Maybe a plugin could come from this idea of a drawing pattern for first layer (like a picture, carbon-fiber, swirls, etc).
These are the links:
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I got it uploaded. The one thing that happens it when the heated bed is turned on the printer turns off. It looks like its the power supply brick that turns off. Should I get a new power supply brick that is 19V? Or should I go back to the relay?
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I get it. Wish Arduino was a bit easier to connect and upload. I have the builds ready to upload but it times-out to connect to the Arduino, even though the IDE can get the Arduino info.
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Still trying to get the firmware uploaded. Im hearing that the Arduino ide sometimes has problems with the Arduinos due to the braudrate connection and some other things. Theres the timeout or authorization denied. Ill look more into it.
On 11/24/2020 at 6:00 AM, gr5 said:Anyway to answer your question - just hook it up - you'll be fine. If the power supply can't deliver enough power it will just shut down when you turn on the heated bed. Nothing will get damaged. It just won't work.
On another note, I believe the part when the printer shutoff from heating the bed was maybe what you said before. The bed with 19v power supply would have 1.805 ohms with 200W and 10.52 A. Would regular marlin have the option with the budget hotbed or is that only with tinkermarlin? Also, isn't tinkermarlin only for upgraded boards like UM2 and UMO+?
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I had the problem and the printer isn't working right now. I tried to update the firmware through Arduino with this firmware (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4223870) and everything worked until I heated up the bed. When I turn on the power the printer wont turn on, but everything turns on when connected to the usb cable. I had Marlin V2 already on it before but had the stock settings and thought I would add a few other updates. I then tried to reinstall the old hex file but Cura says it cant connect to the printer with the usb. Tried burning a bootloader, which I think is the thing that helps cura update the firmware to the arduino, but that doesn't work. Now I'm trying to install the github old verison of ultimaker marlin on the printer. I've uploaded it but I still can't update through cura nor does the file compile when I try to change it to reprap full graphics display. I have all the libraries already installed and the original version is good at already declaring that, but it says that the directory for utility/U8g.h doesn't exist. The other thing is I don't think that Im installing the bootloader correctly, or maybe I am?
If it helps, Ill give specs on my printer:
-Power supply: 19V (stock)
-Extruder: Stock
-Display: Full graphic Reprap display
-Heated Bed: 18~24V, 200 W, With thermistor (still unsure what the thermistor is, but I put it as 100K thermistor or option 1)
-Arduino mega 2560 board (stock)
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getting this screen from the builder
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Awesome! Thanks for the help. This was the actual one I got, but ill try with those settings.
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I don't know what version of marlin the builder runs, but I found this that has the newer settings for the Ultimaker. He said to compare with the current build. You can also just install marlin 2 with hout changing the firmware from ultimaker if needed.
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13 hours ago, Juliogdiana said:
Basically any thermistor will work, but I have used this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202619728612 and the first thermistor option on marlin firmware, I think is number 1.
This looks like the one you got that has an included thermistor sensor. I couldn't find info on mine that also has an integrated sensor. Looking at the description its a pt100 3.8 ohm thermistor. Ill start with that and see if it works.
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I see. I had a relay before with a previous diy build and it shorted or burnt. Do you know what thermistor you used for the heated bed? I looked at the build and it has many options. The site that I bought it from also doesn't have which type.
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That's great news! Im guessing the relay was a way to heat up the heated bed a lot faster. But, I was wondering why is there a connection for the heated bed when it has a way for it to connect directly to the board? I'll have to change the firmware, but Ill give it a try.
Does anyone know how to backup the firmware on the printer currently so if anything happens I can always revert back to it?
UM3/3x capacitive sensor wire replacement - SOLVED
in UltiMaker 3D printers
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Do you have pictures of the process? The same thing happened to me on the red wire and I found a blob on the print head.