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Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


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  1. I get the error 'nonetype' object has no attribute 'Chop' on mine. Seems to happen when I want to work with gcode. Dosen't work if I try downloading it to the computer or over network.
  2. Recently got an Ultimaker Original+ and got it printing. Noticed that when I was printing a calibration for bed leveling that the lines werent matching or there were spaces. If it draws squares across the build plate, you see spaces between the lines or the lines of the squares dont always match up (ill include pictures when I get home). I also get surface artifacts or bumps on the straight lines on the calibration cube. Is this a cura problem, because I have it with my other Ultimaker original (that one prints cleanly), or is it the XY gantry system? I've tried to square it as much as possib
  3. the machine itself is 19V with the power supply and the amps is 6.32A, so around 120 Watts. When we did tests on the heated bed, we picked up around .9 to 1.2 ohms on the bed with the multimeter and couldn't get it consistent. Right now the bed is the only one connected to the 24V 350W power supply.
  4. Guess I got to start making pizzas on my machine. hahah. Im not worried about the bed as much anymore. I think I might upgrade the machine to a 24V machine.
  5. I got a separate PSU and Its working great. its a 24V 350W. So heats up the bed quite quickly. I tried tuning the PID on the firmware, but don't think its being saved. Does the bUlitmaker Firmware support saving auto PID tuning on the heated bed? If not, does that mean I will have to create my own configuration to do it. Or is there a way to edit this in the file that you get from the firmware builder site?
  6. I found out it was my router/modem from xfinity. Realized that I couldn't share information across computers on my network and the utlimaker wasn't connecting to the cloud. Had to reset the connection settings but it worked.
  7. I've still had the same problem too. Tried the same thing many times, and I think Im going to first change my router network and modem, then try again. Im thinking the xfinity modem network that I am using is messing with my accessibility.
  8. I haven't gotten a great reading but the ohms on the bed have a range of .8 to 1.2, so I'm thinking its around 1. I'm doing some tests on it to see the actual specs as the site doesn't provide much information on the heated bed. My guess is that is is like the standard reprap heated bed that you find everywhere. Im checking also the possibility of changing the power supply to 24V and just using one means well PSU. Ive checked the power supply yesterday and its a PA-1121-04 Liteon power supply, which probably isn't the right one. So maybe the real power supply has been mixed up with another ove
  9. Is the hotend fan the only thing to replace? In the video it said nothing about it? What are some other things that I should calibrate or adjust?
  10. Saw on Reddit a year ago that someone turned off the infill on the first layer and set infill after to be 100% with triangle infill to give the bottom a crystalline-looking structure. I've tried that with the newer versions of Cura and it seems to prevent you from doing that anymore. Just wondering if anyone has had success with that or any other cool first layer designs. I know MakeAnything has done it a couple of times with gcode modification and tweaking. Maybe a plugin could come from this idea of a drawing pattern for first layer (like a picture, carbon-fiber, swirls, etc). T
  11. I got it uploaded. The one thing that happens it when the heated bed is turned on the printer turns off. It looks like its the power supply brick that turns off. Should I get a new power supply brick that is 19V? Or should I go back to the relay?
  12. I get it. Wish Arduino was a bit easier to connect and upload. I have the builds ready to upload but it times-out to connect to the Arduino, even though the IDE can get the Arduino info.
  13. Still trying to get the firmware uploaded. Im hearing that the Arduino ide sometimes has problems with the Arduinos due to the braudrate connection and some other things. Theres the timeout or authorization denied. Ill look more into it. On another note, I believe the part when the printer shutoff from heating the bed was maybe what you said before. The bed with 19v power supply would have 1.805 ohms with 200W and 10.52 A. Would regular marlin have the option with the budget hotbed or is that only with tinkermarlin? Also, isn't tinkermarlin only for upgraded boards like UM2 and
  14. I had the problem and the printer isn't working right now. I tried to update the firmware through Arduino with this firmware (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4223870) and everything worked until I heated up the bed. When I turn on the power the printer wont turn on, but everything turns on when connected to the usb cable. I had Marlin V2 already on it before but had the stock settings and thought I would add a few other updates. I then tried to reinstall the old hex file but Cura says it cant connect to the printer with the usb. Tried burning a bootloader, which I think is the thing that hel
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