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3dprntz

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Posts posted by 3dprntz

  1. I'm trying to connect my printer to digital factory and its shows that its connected but I cannot access it. I have another printer on my network that connects fine to digital factory, but this new one isn't. I've reset the printer, re-flashed the printer, it prints just fine on the network and can print it over wifi. When I go through the process of adding it to digital factory, it doesn't show the name that I provided for it through the wifi setup, says its offline, and if I leave the page, I cannot see it anymore. I print remotely for my work, and need a way to monitor it remotely.

  2. Can't get it to run after install. Not sure what's going on. I've uninstalled and reinstalled a couple times and still doesn't work. Also, I prefer the old icon. Looks more modern. The new one looks like it went to windows 95.

  3. I wanted to get the community's option on something. The glass bed, by itself, makes the bottom of the print shiny, Its a bit difficult to get it to stay uniformly on the bed so I add glue stick. The one thing though is if its not even, it leaves the texture on the bottom or can leave a mix of shiny and matte, looking like grease. What would you say is the best way to get either a uniform matte layer or to get the bottom layer look like the top layer of a flat print? do the adhesive sheets help with that? A different print bed? Hair spray? What do you think works best?

  4. 19 hours ago, polygonfuture said:

    Hey everyone.   @Enigma_M4 @fbrc8-erin @3dprintz

     

    I've successfully upgraded to S5 feeders on my UM3 with instructions from CarloK.    I've put together a detailed write-up for making the upgrades.  The doc is still a WIP and I'll be adding more photos, but thought this would be nice if anyone is adventurous.

    I've been testing it for two weeks a now and so far so good!   It gives abrasion resistant feeders and flow sensor.  Also the S5 feeder is just way nicer to change filament using the new lever system.  The spring lever system of the stock UM3 is so poor in comparison.

     

    NOTE:  This document is still a WIP.  There may be typos or small mistakes.   Please do this mod at your own discretion!   Its very simple but it does require one small modification to the ultimaker case, so it may void warranty if that matters to you.  More photos will be added in the coming days.  Also if you spot any errors in the doc let me know.

    https://docs.google.com/document/d/1xS30mssCCnmrijWDpg-YsJSjPGnsYNUsdmtQHAISqxY/edit?usp=sharing


    I can also make a new post if everyone feels that this is worthwhile.

    Does it matter which S5 extruders you use? Cause there's R``1 and R2 versions.

  5. Seen a lot of hype around the Multi Material Painting for Prusaslicer, and was wondering if there is something in development for Cura? Seems like the majority of these add-ons are provided via plugin, but haven't seen anything of its kind yet. Has anyone tried taking the file from Prusaslicer and placing it into Cura? Or Paint on support?

     

    Also, it would be nice if the gcode editor was integrated fully into Cura so that the changes in gcode are shown in the layer timeline too. Or, i guess it doesn't. 

     

     

  6. On 9/20/2021 at 11:10 AM, thorsenrune said:

    The digital factory do not have abort (anymore!). How can we abort remotely?

    image.thumb.png.1b9c2b5eb2b593dd52a641ebc49ba35f.png

    Yeah I don't see the abort button anymore. I'm running a print job and the filament is caught on itself and not extruding plastic.

  7. I use the material manager across my 3D Printers. I do much of the same thing for my printers that have the same filament diameter. I would make an average for the materials across machines or the mode (what's most consistent) and just select the material. I usually start with generic or one that has the same brand. Think its easier that way and any tweaks you make to the individual printer settings.

  8. 5 minutes ago, Enigma_M4 said:

    Yes, just the sensor board is not enough. That's why I thought of using the whole S5 feeder assembly (which would also update the abrasion-resistant feeder wheel).

    It would be nice if it were easy enough to just get the pcb and maybe find the other parts somewhere else for cheaper, even if printing some of the parts. Is there another place that sells these parts in the USA?

  9. 1 hour ago, CarloK said:

    The printers are paused on a filament error, but I don't think we can send a notification (great idea though).

    Not sure if there would be a way to implement this, but it would be great for projects that I have (and is it different when the filament runs out?) I think it would help reduce waste and save money, especially if notifications with errors were integrated with the app. But, I have a bunch of filament that have some material leftover, but not enough for some projects. Honestly, I feel like the app, now that there is digital library, has a lot more potential and could be integrated more with the cloud.

  10. 36 minutes ago, CarloK said:

    Hi guys,
    I didn't get to posting an article on how to integrate the S3/S5 feeder with flow sensor on the UM3, but it will arrive soon. I already collected two S5 feeders.

    Awesome!! I'm excited to hear the article. Just a question? Does the UM3 or S5 printers send a notification and pause the print when it has a filament error, like in the app or digital factory?

  11. I tried it with golden silk filament. You can change the filament type to 1.75mm and adjust some of the settings. It worked well for the most part, but there were times that there were underextrusions. The filament may of been bad, but the surface quality came out nice. BTW I tried it on the UM3 without any modification, except in Cura.

  12. Not completely sure about the current firmware updates for the orginals, as a few of mine have custom updates. But, I was wondering if anyone has tinkered or seen the example configurations on the marlin github (Configurations/config/examples/Ultimaker at import-2.0.x · MarlinFirmware/Configurations · GitHub). There use to be a way to just update the whole thing to Marlin 2.0 without doing another configure file. I know that there is the custom firmware builder, but I'm not sure if its been updated to Marlin 2.0 and includes the advanced features available. Looking on the github it says that the changes were five years ago, which doesn't make sense since there was an error that was just updated the beginning of this year. Anyways, just wanted to know if the update has improved the printer, its safety, and if the added features help.

     

    This is the link for the example page: Configurations/config/examples/Ultimaker at import-2.0.x · MarlinFirmware/Configurations · GitHub

    For the custom firmware builder: Marlin Ultimaker Generator (bulles.eu)

    Tom's upgrade video: Easily upgrade the Marlin firmware on your kit 3D printer! - YouTube

     

     

  13. On 3/30/2018 at 11:56 AM, leliep said:

    Thank you, SanderG, for your kind recommendation, I respect your opinion.

     

    Anyway I just repaired it, my UM3 ist printing again. Wasn't so difficult, please see my photos and the description.

     

    Both of the wires connecting the capacitive leveling sensor are plugged into contact springs on the sensor, and the other side is plugged into a print head PCB connector. Obviously there is a design problem which leads over time to breaking wires at the sensor side, due to bending the wires when opening the print core cover for changing the print cores.

     

    If you want to repair the broken leveling sensor wires, you got to unscrew the four screws holding the bottom part of the print head.

     

    The bottom part then is only held by the level sensor cable and the front fan cable (the two middle connectors of the four ones).

     

    Disconnect both of them, be careful to not damage the wires while freeing them.

     

    Now that you have the printhead bottom part separated from the printhead, you can disconnect the wires (or remove the broken part of the wires) from the contact springs by carefully opening the inner part of the spring until the wire can be pulled out. Don't use too much force, the contact spring is very delicate! If you bent it away from the middle you gotta bend it back. You might wish to use a magnifier and a pointed tool like a needle for this part of the action.

     

    Un-isolate the ends of the wires and solder them, then plug them back into the contact springs, take care not to reverse them (see pictures). Check that they are tightly stuck in there, otherwise you need to bend the spring somewhat more.

     

    After re-assembly of the printhead (careful with the side fans and their cables) and inserting one or both of the print cores you can start the auto-leveling procedure and hopefully start printing again.

     

    Good luck!

     

     

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    Did you have to unwind the wire? I think mine might not have enough strain. Would you suggest crimping instead of tinning the ends of the wire for better support? and does anyone know where to just purchase the wires? Like this: Ultimaker Capacitive Sensor Cable UM3/S5 (igo3d.com) in the USA

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