Nicko_Airbus
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Posts posted by Nicko_Airbus
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I would love an update on this from Ultimaker Team ! Same thing happened to me with a 100 mm tall print
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In cura, can you just enable the option Z hop when retracted or mayble play with the combing mode... Hope this helps. Not expert advice lol
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Update : Even the print core calibration process (ladder print x and Y offset) won't work. Startiing the print with a USB key doesn't work either.
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NEED HELP.
I start a print with the digital Factory, my printer receives it, it goes to the right to change to the core #1 and then the print fails instantly and it asks me if I want to retry the print. It does this every time, so I can't print anything 😢
I've tried different prints, switched cores, unplugged the air manager (because I had a fan issue recently and had to change the fan), restarted the printer several times, reinstalled the latest firmware, returned to factory settings, realigned nozzle switch, etc.
Anyone has an idea of what I should do next ?
Link to video :https://photos.app.goo.gl/rPvtYYBCGgBGmbMs7
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This here will help you :
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Did you find the problem ?
Maybe changing the setting (print outer before inner walls) ?
Maybe also print speed ?
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Did you find the problem ? I'm not an expert, but sometimes that type of problem is caused by loose pulleys.
Have you tried to scale down a little bit to see if it happens again ?
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I'm having small shifted layers along my straight walls and I don't understand why... I Printed multiple parts on a same print, a cylindric part is almost perfect, but the straight walls definitively have a problem, can anyone help me ? Look at the pictures. I printed with Ultimaker PLA at 0.15mm layer hieght with 0.4 AA at 30mm/s
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On 7/7/2021 at 11:21 AM, gr5 said:
Unplug the air handler and material station and reboot it a few more times. Give it 5 or 10 minutes each time (no more). If it still won't boot you need to do the recovery procedure which involves uSD. Contact your reseller as there are dangerous voltages in S5 printers. What country are you in Nicko?
I'd buy an 8GB uSD right this minute (possibly issues if over 32GB) if you don't already have one. In fact get at least two because if your flash partitions got damaged the recovery can get more complicated and it saves a lot of time to have to uSD cards. more info here but I suspect you can recover the normal way:
https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/20024-recovering-a-bricked-um3/
and if that doesn't work more details here:
Hey gr5! I unplugged the machine for 5-10 minutes like you said and it worked ! The Printer is now running normaly.
Why 5 to 10 minutes worked and not a couple seconds ? What's the difference ?
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Thank you ! I'm in Canada. My reseller is Shop 3D.ca
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Hello, I upgraded my S5 Pro Bundle to 6.5.0 and since then my printer is in sleep mode. I can't do anything with the screen since it's only showing "Ultimaker S5". I tried pluging and unpluging but nothing works.
PLEASE HELP.
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On 5/1/2021 at 7:51 AM, Dim3nsioneer said:
In the Bowden tube indeed? Not in the main feeder? What does your S5 show on the side panel, an Ultibot or the current Ultimaker logo (U)?
I don't know if it happens in the material station or in the bowden tube. I see the logo, not the robot
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I'll make this Topic revive since I had the same kind of issue recently.
Printed a part in Toug PLA and supported by Natural PVA. 220C, 60 mm/s, 0.3mm layers, prime tower, 60C build plate and every other settings kept as recommended by cura.
My print is fine, no shifted layers... But when I went to remove the build plate, I noticed that it had shifted 7mm to the right.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ptpYenkQLcyUhwPx8 (photos)
I tried to push it back into place and it took me lot of force to do so. I really hope I didn't damage anything (i have the S5 pro bundle)
Any ideas of what could have happened ?
Cheers.
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Since the first time I received it (in a box and sealed bag (I think)) I put it in the material station. Every now and then, the filament brakes in the bodwen tube, sometimes It doesn't stick to the other layers and and some stringing.
I just had the same problem with my ultimaker natural PVA. Printing .3mm high layers at 35 mm/s at 220C. Other settings are as suggested by cura...
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I had an issue today while printing a tough PLA + PVA part.
At layer 147 of 167, between a layer of PVA and PLA, they were bumps on my print, a sort of mushy finish. (see pictures and video)
Any ideas why ?
35 mm/s, 0.3mm layer height, 50% infill PLA, 20% infill PVA.
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On 4/30/2020 at 8:49 AM, willryan3 said:
Thank you for your response. I have been using the PrintDry oven and heating at its' highest temp for 4 hours prior to a print with it. As far as storing I use the same bag it came in with a few silica packs. Would a material like this need to be concealed during the print also? My area for printing has a humidity between 20-30%.
Thanks Will
Did you get better results ? I have the same issues with Aquasys and my printer (ultimaker S5 Pro Bundle). I wonder what we should change to get better prints.
Any Feedback ? @willryan3 @SandervG
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On 1/14/2021 at 10:35 AM, jficara said:
Greetings,
I am running into an issue with the AquaSys 120 and Ultimaker PC filament, with the support autogenerated by Cura. The AquaSys 120 support filament is not adhering to the Ultimaker PC material at all on the sides of the part. The AquaSys 120 filament is bunching up in chunks. I have attached the Cura project which is the latest attempt with slightly slower print speed, 10% reduction, as recommended when having this type of issue.
Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Note:
The brim, composed of the AquaSys 120 looks good, its clear and adheres to the build plate fine
The part made up of the Ultimaker PC looks good, its opaque and adheres to the build plate fine
Since the brim, made up of the AquaSys 120 looks clear, I doesn't appear like its a hydroscopic issue with the AquaSys 120, but I will try drying the Filament after the current print run completes just in case.
Equipment:
Ultimaker S5 Pro Bundle
Ultimaker S5 Firmware 5.8.2.0
AA 0.4 for Ultimaker PC
BB 0.4 for AquaSys 120
Software
Cura 4.8.0
AquaSys 120 material plugin version 1.0.6
Settings:
Attempted with: Default Cura Settings for with 0.15mm layer height and 100% fill
Attempted with 10% speed reduction for (45mm /sec PC and 27mm/sec for AquaSys) with 0.15mm layer height and 100% fill
Filament:
Ultimaker PC Transparent
AquaSys 120
I have the same equipment you have and the same issue occured... Don't know why. I fill like the solution given by Dim3nsioneer should help!
Good luck! Give us some news about your results!
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Hello,
Let's say I have a basic cube i want to print. What would be the difference if I rotate the bloc by 45 degrees to always use x and y axis while printing VS Printing along x and y seperately.
Will the resulting part be more precise since I used both axis all the time ? or not ?
Hope it's clear,
Thank you.
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On 1/9/2021 at 8:40 PM, GregValiant said:
Holes create a special problem. The nozzle drags the plastic in a circle and the plastic wants to cut corners so it pulls towards the center making an ID smaller You don't notice it as much on an OD because usually there is an inner wall to act as a dam to keep the plastic outboard. How much it pulls to the middle is affected by a lot of things. The phenomenon is known as the Gr5 Snot Factor after it's discoverer who had a runny nose at the time.
The Shell | Hole Horizontal Expansion setting can be used to enlarge a hole. Not all holes are round, it acts on any vertical holes in the part. Horizontal features don't suffer from the snot factor. In Nicko-Airbus example, the ID is .5mm too small. A Horizontal Hole Expansion of +.25 would get the ID at least into the ballpark of being correct. The hole horizontal expansion number works on the radius. The downside is that the smaller holes will probably need a different HHE number to be correct.
Thanks a lot ! Really helps
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On 12/14/2020 at 8:07 AM, geert_2 said:
A couple of years ago I did a lot of tests with small text: caps height 3.5mm, character width 2mm, leg width 0.5mm. Recessed text, thus engraved, always came out worst. This is because the nozzle can not get into tiny openings in characters like: N, M, K, H, G, B, 8, etc... So they get completely messed-up and the openings (engravings) get closed.
You are better off making raised text. While it still looks a bit Flintstone-like, it is easier to read. If it has to be recessed somewhat to prevent it from being damaged easily, consider recessing a plate surrounding the text, but raising the text itself. See the quick concept pic below.
When printing transparent materials, you could also consider making a watermark text. Thus hollow text inside the model. It will still get deformed, but for a watermark that is less critical than for surface text. Watermarks are expected to be somewhat abstract and deformed.
I also made a characterset optimised for 3D-printing. See here (and then scroll down a lot). Be sure to copy any files of interest, as I am not sure I can keep them up due to changes in policy and website-engine:
https://www.uantwerpen.be/nl/personeel/geert-keteleer/manuals/
Pictures:
Concept of raised text in a recessed surrounding plate:
Watermark text concept: both as positive text (solid characters inside a hollow) and negative text (hollow characters):
Raised text, 3.5mm caps height:
Watermark text inside a 10mm x 20mm x 10mm block. This is printed very slow and cool, in thin layers, otherwise the text would not be visible. Left: as printed, right: after polishing the block:
More watermark text. Nozzle is 0.4mm, and thus printing-lines are 0.4mm apart. Text leg-width is 0.5mm.
Mini-text, caps height 2.5mm, character-width 1.5mm, and leg-width 0.5mm. This is the smallest you can get with a 0.4mm nozzle:
A bit bigger text, raised in a recessed area. Caps height is ca. 7mm:
Watermark text, as hollows totally inside the model. Top model is smoothed in post-processing to reduce layer lines, bottom model is as-printed:
This is awesome work ! thanks a lot for the feedback !
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On 12/11/2020 at 8:16 AM, geert_2 said:
I read on the datasheets that Aquasys dissolves at 70°C-80°C: does that mean that this is the minimum temperature to make it dissolve, or is that just the optimal for the fastest results? How does it perform in cold or hand-warm water, thus below 45°C, for PLA?
It would be good if you could some feedback on your experiences.
I used aquasys 120 and it dissolves pretty well even at 40 C. I made a part from PLA and the structure was Aquasys and verything was fine.
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Hey guys I'm printing with the S5 pro bundle with PLA from color fabb and It is just impossible to print nice text on my parts...
I've done like 8 different tests and nothing really helps. Attached is an excel file with my settings and in the excel is also a photo of the results.
Here is the part that I'm trying to print (Attached)
Will I be more successfull with low speed (30), thin layers (0.1), cold temp (190), cold bed(30) ?
And don't know what to do anymore....
Ultimaker S5 - Crash after printing?
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
Same Issue here Vasile. It's not a problem that happens at every layer. it just happends at the end of the print when finalizing the print. I don't understand the issue. It's like if the bed is moved up after the print finishes and then the print head want's to move to the side and then CRASH.
I would love to have some help from Ultimaker team on that matter !