Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

paoletto

Member
  • Content Count

    22
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral
  1. Ok. after the 3 failed attempt i turned the part and printed it close to the front. It turned out alright.
  2. Do Ultimakers have a thermal gradient in the build area? If i have an enlongated part to print, and i align it along the Y axis, should i expect warping in the back? (that's what i'm getting, w/o cooling). I tried to lower temperature, print outer walls before inner walls, the situation improved, and i believe the difference between front and back became even more apparent, as the front is now perfect and the back gets some warping, and it looks, also from the side, that there's even some curling of the layers. Side question: might this be also caused/exacerbated by enclosing the printer
  3. According to the other user, it's the belt that's worn a slightly stretched. I'll try to find a new one and replace, then report 🙂
  4. Thanks! will check that out. Btw, googling for this (UM3 bearing) i found Sounds about the same issue? Edit: and this
  5. I think you might be right, i put my ear next to that shaft (the one the short belt is pulling) and i think there is where the noise come from.. But if that's the case, it shouldn't be very serious, should it? Usually worn bearing are just a bit noisy. Or could this be what is affecting precision? Btw , for losening the y-motor, you mean the 4 screws on the outside?
  6. I made a couple of other vids: https://ufile.io/ijrhb4ur https://ufile.io/3qdj889c I do not see anything out of the ordinary, maybe just the short belt very close to the side of the pulley, i saw below there would be some margin to move it, like half mm, so i could try that. Other than that, the noise always when the white label on the short belt go around the top pulley.. Edit: i managed to move the short belt away from that edge, but the sound persists
  7. So after a session of auscultation, i would put my money on the left stepper motor. Which does not make sense, because on head fast translation movements it does not make such a noise. only when driving slow while printing. And also only in the middle (and the motor spins many times before getting there).
  8. I am now trying again, the clicking still there. I tried to keep my ear on the feeder, and i think i'm quite comfortable saying it does not come from there. It also does not happen when the head is moved up or down when not printing..
  9. Thanks for helping me out! 🙂 So first thing i did was open the feeder, followed instructions from a nice lady on youtube, worked out smoothly, the feeder however wasnt even that dirty. Anyway, i hoovered it, and mounted it back. Next i checked the rails, and one thing i notice is that when i slide the head by hand, laterally (x direction) it feels very uniform, while along the y (back to front) is rather uneven resistance. In particular, in around the area where the clicking happens, it seems the head moves looser (faster). Can this be a stepper motor problem? I inspected the gears and bel
  10. Thank you Torgeir for your input, i will look into this. However, i would like to point out that this noise is apparent mostly in just one part of the front-to-back swipe, and it doesn't happen below or above. If i pay attention, it also happens around the same y position when the head is printing gyroid infill so wiggling left and right..
  11. It started recently, it happens when the head move along the front to back axis. It happens around a specific position (see https://ufile.io/y60q1agm , roughly in the middle ), and more prominently when the head goes toward the back. Is this something known? I tried to lube the rails today, but it did not help for this issue. video.zip
  12. Hi so i've been successfully printing (pretty much since print 1) with my ultimaker, quite intensly for a couple of weeks. Then i stopped using for a while, simply unplugged (with filament left in), and parked. Today, after a bit (4-5 weeks) i switched on again and tried to print. First thing i noticed is a slightly different sound and a somewhat slightly different autocalibration pattern. Then i notice that, while it used to autocalibrate with the (unused) printcore 2, now it uses the first printcore to calibrate. It also produces the print blob differently, making a much larger pu
  13. Ok i was trying to set this up, even changed my router which i thought was the problem. UM3 creates the AP, i connect and select the network to use, and then the printer tries to connect to that forever until finally failing. I guess i should just give up and use the wire
  14. I was thinking: what if you output G280, then you output g-code to lower the build plate then you bring it back to the printing position? Or, alternately, what about not sending G280, but emulating it instead?
  15. This does not look pretty. I got an Ultimaker because i expected it to be premium *especially* in support. It does not really seem like it. I want to hope your problem gets fixed, or selling mine will soon became a priority. I don't want to get stuck with such an expensive brick.
×
×
  • Create New...