mrender
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Posts posted by mrender
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It is becoming difficult to get hold of 2.85mm filaments in a lot of cases now. Surprising that there isn't a conversion kit available from Ultimaker by now.
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Sounds like the machine is cold. Without running a print, try setting the bed temp to 60 degrees and leaving it to warm up for 20min or so then try again.
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I had this happen, tried everything you have. What fixed it in the end was to go back a firmware version from 8.2.1 to 8.2.0.
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The feature should be made available again, waiting for everything to cool down only to wait for everything to heat up again is a frustrating waste of time and energy especially in the case of an aborted print.
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where did the skip cooldown option go??
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no longer available
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Generally materials aren't compatible i.e. they all (pla, abs, pets, pa) require different settings. Or are you meaning material brand compatibility?
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Unless there is a plugin for automatically scaling available somewhere you are stuck with manually scaling each time. As far as I'm aware Cura only works in mm.
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Only because I have done it myself a few times, but have you got PLA running on PETG settings? Looks like could be running too hot and curling where the shallow overhang starts.
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Yes the cold pulls work well at that temp for both. I assume it is more about keeping the nozzle heat expanded enough to not grip the filament solid!?
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About 90 degrees Celsius I think, don't think GR5 was trying to be condescending:)
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Useful Cura related information in the Cura forum, don't see a problem with this.
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It is a significant ongoing cost for fairly basic quite often essential functionality.
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The subscription version of Cura supports STEP files amongst others.
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Wood filament does wear away brass nozzles surprisingly quickly, need a hardened steel nozzle really.
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Printing from project files helps with this, as you slice and produce a new print file with the material you have in the selected machine, if they don't tally up then you get a warning. Alternatively digital factory keeps track of material selection too. Human error can still conquer all obviously.
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Diamond has amazingly good thermal conductivity, vastly better than ruby and much better than brass too. So you would be better off with diamond on this basis rather than seeing much benefit from the increased hardness.
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Interesting update, after switching from wifi to ethernet networking I have not had this happen again.
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31 minutes ago, Slashee_the_Cow said:
I'd love to write a witty retort, but I don't want to derail this thread any further.
Based on the pictures, it looks very unlikely to be a moisture issue, so we can drop the matter.
- You should only have to increase Material > Flow > Outer Wall Flow since that seems to be the problem part.
- Just to check, you don't have Experiments > Enable Coasting turned on, do you? That would definitely explain some underextrusion.
- You could also try setting Walls > Outer Wall Wipe Distance to maybe 4mm-ish (it's basically the opposite of coasting).
Agreed, no worries apology accepted:)
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2 minutes ago, Slashee_the_Cow said:
Straight PLA isn't exactly hydrophobic, but it's about as hygroscopic as anything you'd find sitting on your desk. And I've never found my mousepad damp after a few straight days of high humidity.
I'd watch my prints (or set up a camera) and try and determine the cause of the bubbles. Damp filament might be a primary cause of that sort of thing, but it's not the only one (e.g. if it's not extruding properly, air pockets can get inside your hot, not-yet-set filament).
Bonus points if there's also a sachet or two of silica gel (or other desiccant) in there. I don't store my PLA in sealed bags (mainly because they didn't come with them and I CBF finding some big enough for them). Same with my ABS, never really had a problem with either. I do however keep my TPU and PETG in sealed bags (they came with them!) and have a filament dryer I stick them in for a couple of hours before I print
Hygroscopic materials are not going to feel damp precisely because there are hygroscopic.
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3 minutes ago, neoweiter said:
I manly use PLA+. I have a rather dry environement, and I avoid leaving the window open, especially when it's raining.
I don't think I have big moisture issue with my filaments, but sometimes I can hear some bubbles popping when printing. Not sure if this affects my prints though, and I don't think this is the issue of my post above.
I also try to store my spools in sealed bags as much as possible
Doesn't look like wet filament is the issue at all in your prints, looks like wall settings or retract.
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24 minutes ago, Slashee_the_Cow said:
I don't think this forum software has polls, but this might be an "agree to disagree" moment. I'm with @gr5, I've found spools of PLA which I forgot existed that have just been sitting around in the same spot for years and print fine first time.
PLA is basically chemically inert - it doesn't really interact with anything. That's why some other kinds of filament, you can smooth surfaces or basically temporarily melt it so you can glue things on using chemicals like acetone or methyl ethyl ketone, but with PLA, you're stuck with good old cyanoacrylate (superglue) for sticking things back together. A lot of this is because PLA is derived from plant starch (often corn starch) - it's extremely stable chemically, so it won't react with almost everything.
However, some companies make filaments with names like "PLA+". They might be slightly more reactive if they've added other ingredients (because those other ingredients might not be as chemically stable).
Think you are going off on a tangent here, PA is as chemically inert as PLA and doesn't chemically react with water. Both are hygroscopic, PA more so than PLA. Processing either with a significant water content will have issues.
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On 10/11/2023 at 3:35 PM, gr5 said:
No need to dry PLA. I have 5 year old PLA that prints fine. PVA and Nylon however get "ruined" just be leaving out in the open for a day.
Do you have this issue with other types of PLA?
Disagree, some PLA seems to miraculously avoid moisture uptake or at least seem not to suffer from it, but generally it needs to be kept dry. Poor bed adhesion, extrusion blobs, stringing and inconsistencies all things being equal are usually down to water in the PLA.
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I'm finding that which ever z seam option choice is picked the result in the slicer turns out as sharpest corner!
UPDATE: works fine with some existing project files not in others.
Using 1.75mm filament with UM5
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
Surprising that there isn't a conversion kit available from Ultimaker by now.