mrender
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Posts posted by mrender
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Diamond has amazingly good thermal conductivity, vastly better than ruby and much better than brass too. So you would be better off with diamond on this basis rather than seeing much benefit from the increased hardness.
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Interesting update, after switching from wifi to ethernet networking I have not had this happen again.
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31 minutes ago, Slashee_the_Cow said:
I'd love to write a witty retort, but I don't want to derail this thread any further.
Based on the pictures, it looks very unlikely to be a moisture issue, so we can drop the matter.
- You should only have to increase Material > Flow > Outer Wall Flow since that seems to be the problem part.
- Just to check, you don't have Experiments > Enable Coasting turned on, do you? That would definitely explain some underextrusion.
- You could also try setting Walls > Outer Wall Wipe Distance to maybe 4mm-ish (it's basically the opposite of coasting).
Agreed, no worries apology accepted:)
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2 minutes ago, Slashee_the_Cow said:
Straight PLA isn't exactly hydrophobic, but it's about as hygroscopic as anything you'd find sitting on your desk. And I've never found my mousepad damp after a few straight days of high humidity.
I'd watch my prints (or set up a camera) and try and determine the cause of the bubbles. Damp filament might be a primary cause of that sort of thing, but it's not the only one (e.g. if it's not extruding properly, air pockets can get inside your hot, not-yet-set filament).
Bonus points if there's also a sachet or two of silica gel (or other desiccant) in there. I don't store my PLA in sealed bags (mainly because they didn't come with them and I CBF finding some big enough for them). Same with my ABS, never really had a problem with either. I do however keep my TPU and PETG in sealed bags (they came with them!) and have a filament dryer I stick them in for a couple of hours before I print
Hygroscopic materials are not going to feel damp precisely because there are hygroscopic.
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3 minutes ago, neoweiter said:
I manly use PLA+. I have a rather dry environement, and I avoid leaving the window open, especially when it's raining.
I don't think I have big moisture issue with my filaments, but sometimes I can hear some bubbles popping when printing. Not sure if this affects my prints though, and I don't think this is the issue of my post above.
I also try to store my spools in sealed bags as much as possible
Doesn't look like wet filament is the issue at all in your prints, looks like wall settings or retract.
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24 minutes ago, Slashee_the_Cow said:
I don't think this forum software has polls, but this might be an "agree to disagree" moment. I'm with @gr5, I've found spools of PLA which I forgot existed that have just been sitting around in the same spot for years and print fine first time.
PLA is basically chemically inert - it doesn't really interact with anything. That's why some other kinds of filament, you can smooth surfaces or basically temporarily melt it so you can glue things on using chemicals like acetone or methyl ethyl ketone, but with PLA, you're stuck with good old cyanoacrylate (superglue) for sticking things back together. A lot of this is because PLA is derived from plant starch (often corn starch) - it's extremely stable chemically, so it won't react with almost everything.
However, some companies make filaments with names like "PLA+". They might be slightly more reactive if they've added other ingredients (because those other ingredients might not be as chemically stable).
Think you are going off on a tangent here, PA is as chemically inert as PLA and doesn't chemically react with water. Both are hygroscopic, PA more so than PLA. Processing either with a significant water content will have issues.
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On 10/11/2023 at 3:35 PM, gr5 said:
No need to dry PLA. I have 5 year old PLA that prints fine. PVA and Nylon however get "ruined" just be leaving out in the open for a day.
Do you have this issue with other types of PLA?
Disagree, some PLA seems to miraculously avoid moisture uptake or at least seem not to suffer from it, but generally it needs to be kept dry. Poor bed adhesion, extrusion blobs, stringing and inconsistencies all things being equal are usually down to water in the PLA.
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I'm finding that which ever z seam option choice is picked the result in the slicer turns out as sharpest corner!
UPDATE: works fine with some existing project files not in others.
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Bambu Lab machines don't have ethernet which is annoying and I think the wifi is 2.4ghz only like Ultimaker. I am sure the wifi setup is much more straight forward on Bambu lab though!
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The front belt looks very loose could be jumping the pulley.
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If the print speed is lower for the first Layer then won't the flow be less?
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You should be able to stick with 20% and reduce the distance independently to 2mm
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Try reducing infill line distance
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Which machine did you decide on in the end?
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From experience S5 machines work much more reliably over wired ethernet with reserved IP addresses, wouldn't bother with wifi on these machines especially if you have more than one and use digital factory!
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On 8/29/2022 at 12:09 PM, MariMakes said:
Hey @uj3,
@Cuq is right, adhesion is not settable in the per object settings.
But I run into your issue on a regular basis. I learned that Brim Distance is a setting that can be set per mesh. If you make the value high enough your brim will not attach to the mesh:
You can also decide to start working with Tabs.
5Axses has a plug-in you can use to add tabs to your models in Cura.
You can download it here: https://marketplace.ultimaker.com/app/cura/plugins/5axes/TabPlus
Than your buildplate can look like this
I hope this helps! Good luck.
Hi Marimakes
I am trying to do the per model brim distance but no matter what distance I enter in there it is ignored and I get the value entered in the main project file settings. I am using Cura 5.4.0, any ideas where I am going wrong? Thanks
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Sounds like your "Final Printing Temperature" in Material section setting is too low?
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Cura does log out of your account from time to time, which will show the printer grey cloud in cura while the printer shows connected wifi on its screen. Are you sure you don't just need to log back in to digital factory in Cura.
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On 5/22/2023 at 2:56 AM, gr5 said:
Tinkering? It works for >90%. Probably > 95%. Maybe even > 99% of the printers just fine.
The issue seems to be noise but it's hard to trace down the source of noise as it can be different for each printer. It's also not clear if the fan is acting as an antenna picking up noise or if the fan is creating noise.
Recently someone discovered the fan is still slightly on even when software turns it to "off". So that was fixed in a recent release but may have nothing to do with the problem.
It's hard to fix a bug when every printer you have in your factory doesn't have the problem.
I think tinkering is the right word.
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Hi
I have had the little connector on the back of the extruder work its way loose a couple of times which as I remember gave this error. More often though it has been the extruder wearing a groove (not always a big obvious groove) in the filament when retracting either lots of times in a small area or because the filament sticks in the core a bit. Also check your front fan is switching on at 40C nozzle temp.
Hope this helps
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My s5 has developed and under extrusion issue on No 2 core side. The problem seems to have nothing to do with the core, tried other cores in machine, all under extrude and do not under extrude in other s5 machines. Currently to obtain as close to similar results as possible in this machine I need to set flow to 120%, but overall quality is not good still. The machine seems to load material fine and extrusion during this appears identical to other machines. Front fan appears to be working fine and the extruder again seems fine. I wonder if anyone else has had a similar issue or can suggest what is causing this?
Thank you
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sometimes the cause seems to be a broken wire on the front fan.
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This is a know design flaw, the fix is to buy an S7.
Cura lacks (?) material compatibility in profliles
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
Printing from project files helps with this, as you slice and produce a new print file with the material you have in the selected machine, if they don't tally up then you get a warning. Alternatively digital factory keeps track of material selection too. Human error can still conquer all obviously.