Kotaztrafee

Poppycock. Ok. Why do I bother. These forums are just full of arrogant pretenders.

Thank you very much for your reply. I have been away and just getting back to this. As best I can guess from the picture, that looks to me like an extra wall to me. Sooo, which of our very vague and unexplainable guesses is right? Does anyone one have a better explanation plz. Why do these forums always have ppl who speak in riddles? I don't mind learning but I don't think such vague replies are professional at all.

My Wall Count is set to 3 but in this area I get this extra wall/glob that I do not want or need. It is causing many extra travels. I'm using QIDI Print which is much like Cura so I'm hoping there is a feature or setting that will remove this. So far I haven't found it.

I have been fighting this problem too on my QIDI X Plus. I even discovered and replaced a bent Z screw that helped a separate issue but not this. Accelerations, flows speed and all the rest that everyone has mentioned. My model is 100% a horseshoe shaped half pipe so..... But ........(in real time thinking commentary) SO WAIT! That's it! The combing! Retraction doesn't work with combing on, from my understanding and from the gcode info that shows no retractions with combing on. With combing off retraction can be adjusted for any stringing! Going to go try it now! THAT'S IT!!!! COMBING OFF !!! No stringing no under extrusion after the seam! Thank You GregValiant !!!

Ready for an update? I have tried to use the 0.6 nozzle on ASA to try getting a faster and stronger model. It was a success is that regard but it led to trouble in one area of the model. I never noticed this condition with the 0.4 nozzle but now that I am looking for it the condition seems to be occurring with the 0.4 nozzle. As I said, I'm not sure if this was occurring before I started the 0.6 experiments or not since the prints looked quite good and I've printed many. I've even tried a different brand filament. I have run many different setting and I've attached photos of the results for some of them. You will notice that all the models labeled are at 0.3 LH but I have tried every thing down to 1.5LH and the condition persists. I've tried many more setting than what is shown but welcome any suggestions. I feel like we have to think outside the box on this one. The outside layer in this one spot is curling up and messing up. Yes, I am in an enclosed QIDI X-Plus and I've checked for any hint of a draft (even from the nozzle fan, not sure I should shut disable that) and have rotated the model just in case. The curling also occurs on the dots outer layer but doesn't seem to effect the final result. I'm thinking there might be another adjustment such as skin overlap or something (I don't know) that will make this more reliable. I feel like the 0.6 still could work if I knew exactly what could remedy this curling / shrinkage / stress factor.

It is a fishing accessory. ASA is UV stable. Making stops and post production processes with additional parts, time and labor cuts into any profitability of a printed product.

Yea, other videos suggest .15 on a .4 nozzle. So, that makes me think a .6 should be good at .25 thus faster. Which makes me think .35 with a .8 nozzle and faster yet. I only need the strength in one area so with use of a Support Blocker I am theorizing I can print most of the model faster everywhere but the critical area with a different layer height and speed. The chamber gets to 90F but if it turns out the chamber needs to be hotter heat lamps sound good. But I heard that an all metal steel nozzle hot ends run cooler and often needs to be run hotter (kinda confuses me but thats what someone said). I am at the max of the filament 255 degrees but will probably have to go higher than that considering the all metal theory and faster/more extrusion. I have no overhangs on the model. The area I need strengthened is subject to torsion stress. So it's a twisting that is exerted on the critical area. This thing needs ejection molded to really be strong. My ABS thermoformed prototypes are damn near indestructible but thermoforming cant give me the detail and features the model needs to be marketed. It also seems there may be a difference in filament brands and it seems some of my cheaper ASA filament is stronger than the more expensive stuff for whatever reason. I think the 0.6 is going to be the sweet spot but we shall see. It's going to be an involved process unless I get lucky with my first guess or two. I'm probably going to have to make a log book of all the different settings. Thanks for your help and interest.

Yea, other videos suggest .15 on a .4 nozzle. So, that makes me think a .6 should be good at .25 thus faster. Which makes me think .35 with a .8 nozzle and faster yet. I only need the strength in one area so with use of a Support Blocker I am theorizing I can print most of the model faster everywhere but the critical area with a different layer height and speed. The chamber gets to 90F but if it turns out the chamber needs to be hotter heat lamps sound good. But I heard that an all metal steel nozzle hot ends run cooler and often needs to be run hotter (kinda confuses me but thats what someone said). I am at the max of the filament 255 degrees but will probably have to go higher than that considering the all metal theory and faster/more extrusion. I have no overhangs on the model. The area I need strengthened is subject to torsion stress. So it's a twisting that is exerted on the critical area. This thing needs ejection molded to really be strong. My ABS thermoformed prototypes are damn near indestructible but thermoforming cant give me the detail and features the model needs to be marketed. It also seems there may be a difference in filament brands and it seems some of my cheaper ASA filament is stronger than the more expensive stuff for whatever reason. I think the 0.6 is going to be the sweet spot but we shall see. It's going to be an involved process unless I get lucky with my first guess or two. I'm probably going to have to make a log book of all the different settings. Thanks for your help and interest.

I'd be happy to keep you posted on my results but it will be a couple weeks til I get the nozzles. Yes fully enclosed QIDI X-Plus This is the video I am referencing for the the larger nozzle experiments. This is the video I reference for layer height and lower layer height is stronger but it takes a lot longer to print.

I am printing with ASA, enclosed, all metal hot end and no fan. I am waiting for a 0.6 and 0.8 nozzle from china to experiment with. It will be a while so this thread will be old by then.

Thanks for the interesting information. I am printing with ASA on a QIDI X-Plus. So ya, High temp. I'm currently printing at 250 at 30-40 mm/s Please check out the other thread I started.

I am printing enclosed with ASA at 250 degrees at 30-40 mm/s.

Thanks for the interesting information. I am printing with ASA on a QIDI X-Plus. So ya, High temp. I'm currently printing at 250 at 30-40 mm/s Please check out the other thread I started.

Hmmm? This looks stronger....? .2 is in the red. Why's that? Oh. The .2 won't bridge.

Hmmm going to try this.

I am wondering if Staggered Layer Lines is possible now or ever could be. It might mean using a cutting mesh at the weak spot or something I'm not aware of. Within the Cutting Mesh one might be able to either make the top/bottom layers a different height than the walls thus staggering the layers for more strength or preferably Staggering the Layers. I see the settings in Extruder Settings to change the Line Widths but is only good for 1 wall, leaves a bigger gap and isn't really staggered...? I see in my slice that the middle line is larger than the outer lines...? If there is not currently a way to do it then my suggestion is that an option to stagger the layer lines could even be used throughout the model...? Maybe a larger nozzle would be required...? Maybe a dual extruder..? Seems to me this would help reduce the anisotropy/grain of the print. Could revolutionize the printing process..?...! :-) Any and all thoughts and facts appreciated.

Thank You gr5. The link was helpful. I have another idea to make my model stronger without adding weight. I am going to start a new thread titled. "Staggered Layer Lines" In my application, I assume, it would mean using a cutting mesh at the weak spot. Within the Cutting Mesh one might be able to either make the top/bottom layers a different height than the walls thus staggering the layers for more strength. If there is not currently a way to do it then my suggestion is that an option to stagger the layer lines could even be used throughout the model...? Seems to me this would help reduce the anisotropy/grain of the print. Could revolutionize the printing process..?...!

Change At Z. Thanks anyway.

I am trying to slow the speed of the layers midway through my print to increase the strength in this area. Is this possible? I tried using a support blocker with Cutting Mesh and Layer Settings (because it's all I know) but I get a crash when doing so. Is it possible to to do this or is there any way to strengthen a particular area of a model? Some Current Settings: No Infill, 5 Wall Line Count, .4 Line Width Is Tweek At Z still an addon? I don't see it.

Thanks for your reply. I tried MS 3D builder with no success. My models didn't stay stuck together in Cura. I think I am getting Blender to work. I got Blender to make a smooth slice just by selecting two models and exporting them stl. But, when I tried to ad a third it won't open is

When I merge the different stl's, they scatter. Not much of a merge. So are you saying the bounding box is cause the individual stl's to align with the bounding box? How is that a merge? I don't even know if merge will give me what I want. I want a texture on a pipe. I have done this and have printed without merge but I would like to make the multiple stls one model so I don't have to spend hours lining up individual texture stl's so the walls and skins efficiently line up when sliced. So, does merge make it one model that has one skin and smooth walls and such?

Does a merge make the model one piece? If so then there will only be one outer skin. Correct? Whereas, if I try to put one model on another model one must carefully line up the models so that a the outer skins line up perfectly for the sliced model to have efficient walls and layers..? I've been struggling with this for about a year. So, I checked Preferences and the "ensure models kept apart" is unchecked.

Oh the Cylinder is a Support not a Support Blocker. Well, either way. It doesn't work like I thought it would.

The Cylinder Support Blocker has saved my project as I used it to block Fuzzy skin on my slightly conical half pipe. Not only is it a cylinder but it somehow automatically conformed to my half pipes taper. The problem I have is that I don't know if it conformed to my model or if I did something to taper it. ? I kept trying to replicate it but can't figure it out. Another thing is that I get two skins when I use the blocker. There are skins between the wall of the model and the wall of the blocker (if that make any sense). I will attach a screen shot. I tried making zero walls on the blocker but that didn't work. Love the Cylinder Blocker!

It seems the definition on the body is more defined than the text according to the setting I made in the blocker. Does the blocker not affect the text? Do you see that also? You mentioned an additional blocker just over the text with settings just for the text correct? So one blocker can be within another? If I were to do this would I need a custom blocker? If so, can you direct me to how to make a custom blocker if that is the case. I realize there will be visible lines but I want to try to get it as good as possible. Nice thing about fuzzy skin is it doesn't have lines :-)