NTwoO

Doesn't it make more sense to make the "weight current" read/write? That way is is not more clutter. In the past I changed the Total value to tune this... It might also be handy to add a config file for the tool, so default new weight (and possible filters I have in my version) can be saved between launches. My branch now has the remaining field read/write and this is used similar to how you added it. The UI is a rearranged somewhat to have a better layout. I can't tune or change the original version and pull requests are not accepted, so it would be good if the Windows version also works on my branch.

Wow! Awesome setup you've got rolling there! It would be good if the small problems in the Windows version can be fixed.

Nope, they don't, but it works ROK

Just so people here know. A number of pull requests were submitted to Dale Osborne but they were not inspected and/or merged. I'll maintain my fork for now. It includes a filter for filament diameter and a filter for filament on text sub-string. There was a stage during one of the upgrades where a directory was added (can't remember which right now) that broke the tool. Will look exactly what that was, as this was also tweaked in the current version. It would be great if someone is willing to help maintain the MAC and Windows branches of the tool as this is not my joy in life.

I'll check out the changes and incorporate it where possible.

Thanks, man! It's a pleasure. Unfortunately I'm not too focussed to debug any Windows issues. My stuff all runs Linux.

"The only way?" Well there is a way. If the layer bonding is not super critical, you can print until the flow sensor pauses the print. Then you disengage the feeder, do the filament swap without removing the existing filament and only reengage the filament feeder after the initial feed is done. Give the purge enough time to settle so that you have no problems with disengaging during retraction. This way you can print multiple bits in succession. There is a person that used a similar technique to print NinjaTek filament. Search the forum for it.

I'll do some hunting, but I'm running Linux. There was something I found there a while ago and it is possible that it is not pushed to the repo.

There is a cura profile for vibers. Not sure what differences it has. In the tech sheet of colorfabb they mention a bed temp of 50-60 and the test prints were done with a bed temperature of 55 degrees and a nozzle temperature of 210.

Nope, but they might tell you that you're running your unit outside of spec and that it might be handy to print a few temp towers to check if you can find a better sweet spot for your conditions.

High ambient temperature does this. Especially with pla

I replaced the one tube on my S5 with a cheap PTFE tube from AliExpress. It has the temperature resistance I would expect from PTFE. The first test print with TPE90A seems to work fine. That is an improvement, in any case.

Yes, I'm thinking of just making a custom profile and tuning it with a couple of temperature towers. The spools can be labelled with NFC tags and then I write the information onto the tag. It works like a charm.

Is there someone that knows where one can find the profile for the petp? maybe it is best to make a custom profile for this...

Thanks for the information. Both units have the tubes with one side flared. The S5 most definitely has the original tubes. I was just curious if there was a change in supplier or something similar. Maybe I'll look into the solex aftermarket Teflon tubes for the S5

Since some time I have two printers. An S3 and an S5R2. The two printers are about the same age, but both printers I bought second hand. The S3 had about 50 days hot time on it and the S5R2 less than a day when purchased. Most of my prints are done with premium quality filament, but I have some cheap filament I use to do test runs during the early stages of prototyping. One of these spools seems to be slightly thicker than regular 2.85mm filament. It goes through the S3 perfectly, but fails on the S5. Is this explicable? I also have Addigy Arnitel F2045 (DSM Arnitel TPC). This filament is not the simplest filament to print. It prints fine on the S3, but has a number of difficulties on the S5. That could also be attributable to the longer tubes, but could also be related to a slight diameter difference.

Accupuncture needles can be ordered for very little money on Ali in different diameters. They work well.

Thanks! Ill give this a try

Hi, One of my mates asked me to print a model on Printables. The model has seam notches to sort out seams. In PrusaSlicer the seams fall nicely into the notch. How can I achieve the same in Cura? Here is the printables model with a seam notch. Thanks in advance!

Since a few months I also have a CNC mill... The mill is a little more scary when you upload your first gcode than the 3D printer... A tool crash is quite a bit more flying metal.

Hi, Yesterday I sat in on the Factor 4 webinar. The machine does look really capable. Maybe there are more people that want to share some experiences and pose questions. I for one want to elaborate on a question I posed that was maybe misunderstood. When printing and there is a bed adhesion issue, it is noticeable that the tool head shudders over the raised corner that is not adhering to the bed. There were mentions that the new printer has accelerometers in the head. My question was whether the head has only X/Y accelerometers or also Z accelerometers for possibly detecting these issues when the head "crashes" over the lifting corners.

Once I had a print core that became unscrewed. See if you can feel play in the core when holding the heat block and gently turning the collar where the filament is inserted. Don't use tools or force as the connecting section is very thin.

The SpoolMaker application is extended with a drop down box providing the found diameters. It is possible to use this to filter the selected materials. Again this is in my fork. There are a number of filaments with 1.74 and 1.75 diameter in the standard Cura database. There are also 2.8 and 3.175 diameters. The default is 2.85 as this is the most used diameter for the Ultimaker and programming the spools used on the UM printers. It is also possible to select "All" to have no filter. For NFC tags I've seen that these NFC 216 tags on Aliexpress work with spools having a 51mm center hole. The NFC reader in the printer is capable of working with these. Some of my spools of other manufacturers also have center holes of 60+mm and with these the tag is not read properly when it is at the bottom.

The photo suffers more from JPG compression artifacts than what ringing is a case here. That being said, in fast printing one still see ringing artifacts, so I guess input shaping is not implemented yet.

Printed a benchy with some Ultimaker ABS that was left on a roll. It was done in fine. There were some imperfections with the seam and the overhangs, but the text on the back surprised me!